I got trees, I need lumber. Is there any way to treat a stem so that it resists rot, such as pressure treated lumber does? I assume that pressure is the key, lol. I don't have pressure. I have various needs, for lumber now and then.
Here is one. I need a tall, stout 'pole.' Say, 12' tall, maybe 8"-12" thick. Sink it in the ground, say, 4'. Make a dog trolley cable run pole. Anything I can coat it with (and how?) so that it resists rot? If possible, last 10-15 years. Or, would hardwood be better for that? (I am considering buying a chainsaw mill, I have several oaks down from wind.)
I also have a bridge across a small creek that we cross to get to our garden, and I note that the lumber is starting to go south. I will need two long timbers underneath when I replace it. Somebody gave me the last two, lol. Maybe they're still okay, but the top (pressure treated lumber) is starting to come apart.
Pressure treatment is the industry standard because it's a quick and easy way to apply the requisite chemicals/heavy metals to deter fungal and insect attack. There are limits to what pressure treatment can do - it basicly treats sapwood and only a thin layer of heartwood to give an "envelope treatment" and its not infallible or a magic bullet - but it will significantly increase the lifespan of treated timber if (a) the right treatment is used for the application and (b) the treatment is done to specification with regard retention levels.
Not having pressure treatment doesnt mean you cant treat timber, it jsut means its harder/slower to do.
Theres a couple brush on options that work just as well and the only reason they arent more widely used is they are brush on which means far slower and less convenient to apply when doing large quantities.
Things to look at would be Copper Napthenate, available from Nissus Corp. its a similar solution to ACQ but is applied by brush and uses diesel or kerosine for the carrier solution. You're going to need multiple coats of the stuff.
Alternatively brushable creosote is still available. Messy stuff but it works well and you dont need heaps of coats.
Alternatively old sump oil brushed on is as good a preservative as any. Again you need multiple coats with time between them to allow it to soak in.
Best thing with any of the brushables is to put your log on a couple blocks so its off the ground, bark it, and give it a while to drop some moisture out before you start. Just paint the top side of the log and leave it to soak in, roll it next day and paint the other side. Recoat until you get bored with it : the more preservative you put on the longer it will last.
If you know anyone working for a utility company they might also be able to source you some copper/boron slugs which get inserted into holes drilled in the post at ground line. These disperse through the wood and assist with preservation from the inside.
You an also get Copper Napthenate paste which you broom on and then put a bandage over for below ground preservation.
Best bet is to use all three techniques - a brush on exterior coat of preservative over the whole pole, copper/boron slug at groundline, and the CuNap paste + bandage for below ground.
Picking a more durable species is also another option.
White Oak is popular for things like bridge decking because it's naturally durable and strong (both good things in a bridge) Red oak isn't so durable.
Hardwood and Softwood don't really relate to durability (or hardness for that matter). So some very soft woods, like Cedars, can be very durable, hence why they are used for utility poles, and last a good while, even untreated. They generally aren't as strong, but as long as they are sized to handle the load you are good. A good solid cedar log buried in the ground should handle the load and last for decades. 4 cuts with a chainsaw mill would take the less durable sapwood off, and leaving a durable heartwood post.
Likewise poplar and maple are hardwoods, but they will rot quick if left in ground contact. You use those in applications off the ground, and even better, sheltered from the weather. Maple makes good floorboards and furniture, but poor utility poles :D
White and Post Oak as well as Black Locust are your options.
Here they use used black motoroil, cheap and protects and once soaked in it won't get you black fingers anymore :D
I don't know if that use will be permitted in your countrys because of the old oil touching the soil??
Nail a roofing shingle on the bottom of your pole with the grit side away from the wood. The tar in the shingle will slowly be forced into the wood fibers on the end of your pole from the weight pushing down on it, sealing it pretty much forever. Then used motor oil, tar, etc. the rest that's in ground contact.
Another option is to thoroughly scorch (burn) the wood. Scorched wood doesn't rot. They're still finding old scorched wood from little campfires from thousands of years ago.
Ditto the charring. It will add years.
We use Hedge and don't have to worry about anything for a good long while. (Just let it dry first or it will take root.) Don't know if it's available that far south.
Also cut the top of the post at an angle or cover it to shed rainwater. I've seen a lot of posts rotted from the center out. I have a hunch they are related and now leave any exposed to the elements with a good slant.
However for a dog run, a couple pieces of drill stem and a couple bags of quickcrete may be the better option. Or get one of the Tractor Supply type drive in ground anchors. Allows quite a bit of movement and easy to move around as the yard is torn up.
Quote from: Ox on April 30, 2017, 11:49:44 AM
Nail a roofing shingle on the bottom of your pole with the grit side away from the wood.
Its also wise to do the same when setting framing on block or concrete, especially orienting vertical posts where the grain will siphon moisture right up from the pourous concrete. Tarpaper or asphalt shingle. My dad just had to jack up his entire house to replace sill boards turned to dust. He didnt know any better when he built it 30some years ago.