So I mentioned in my other thread that I'm considering using Carbide or Stellite bands to mill a cant after using 4 degree bands to get it to the cant first and thought I'd post on it separately.
The issue I am having is logs that are very dry that a customer bought from a plywood mill because they were too big for the mill. They kick them out of the line and leave them. He bought 118 of them and I've milled about 80 or so with the last dozen the dryest. He borrowed a moisture meter from the local lumber yard and is seeing 15% on stuff I've milled just two weeks earlier.
I'm convinced these dry logs are the reason I'm not getting more than about 400bf per band. They just get very hot after a half dozen passes and can't keep going after about 400bf (some even less). My thought is, if I'm right and it's because the wood is too dry for them, that I could slab with the 4 degrees and mill the cant with the stellits. I can change a band pretty quickly so I think the lost milling time would be made up by gaining on the cant and the extended life of both bands by not abusing the 4's on the cant and not using the Stellites (or carbides) on the bark.
What do you think?
Just use the stellite tipped for all the dry logs.If I get problem logs on they go.
Quote from: woodyone.john on May 15, 2017, 03:10:23 PM
Just use the stellite tipped for all the dry logs.If I get problem logs on they go.
WM tells me not to use them to slab cut though as one rock or nail and they are toast....do you agree?
I would check the set if your blades are getting hot...
Quote from: Kbeitz on May 15, 2017, 03:13:36 PM
I would check the set if your blades are getting hot...
Only happens on dry wood but i'm having WM service the mill in 2 weeks
How much soapy lube are you using?
Try water some water soluble oil for lube. I don't gues you have any cotton picker spindle oil thereabouts? It's all I use and if I get a dry batch of logs I add more to the tank and the band behaves again. I believe the water in green logs acts as a secondary coolant, (or maybe the primary) in addition to your normal applicator. Try a different lubricant. Adding more water most times makes the problem worse as it expands the dry sawdust causing band wander and heating. Need a substance that provides slickness with less dry wood expansion. Might be a good time to try a little diesel, see if it works.
Try a WM bimetal blade maybe in 10 degree and resharp it to a 4 degree after the first use for better results.
What species are you sawing? how wide are your cuts?
D
5 gallons of water with 1/2 to 3/4 cup of Pine-Sol and a heavy squirt of dishliquid for lube. When it get into dry wood I pour it on and run through 5 gallons an hour easily. Any less and it doesn't get better.
Didn't find much difference between bi-metals and double hards on these log though the bi-metals are a year old and heavily used since I prefer them to the DH's but in this case I couldn't see a difference vs green logs where I get about double the use out of them.
Species is Fir (mostly Doug) with a little larch and the occasional ponderosa pine.
Quote from: dgdrls on May 15, 2017, 09:32:27 PM
What species are you sawing? how wide are your cuts?
D
Good question. Some very dry, big diameter pine gave me a fit last week. I poured the soapy lube to it and the blade still got extremely hot, lost its tension and you can guess the results. I didn't try using the diesel. I blamed it hard knots dulling the blade.
I just recently cut out a triaxle load of really dry beech logs and it was miserable. I used diesel in my lubemizer but I don't think I used enough. The thing with diesel in the lubemizer is it gets all over everywhere especially in the windy valley where I saw. My truck, clothes, and dog smell like diesel. IMO, diesel would be better if it was rubbed on the way Cook's does it, and now I know why.
I was thinking, if I mixed bar oil with the diesel fuel in my lubemizer, maybe it would weigh it down a bit more so it don't cover everything as much. I may experiment with that soon here
Quote from: OlJarhead on May 15, 2017, 03:05:06 PM
So I mentioned in my other thread that I'm considering using Carbide or Stellite bands to mill a cant after using 4 degree bands to get it to the cant first and thought I'd post on it separately.
The issue I am having is logs that are very dry that a customer bought from a plywood mill because they were too big for the mill. They kick them out of the line and leave them. He bought 118 of them and I've milled about 80 or so with the last dozen the dryest. He borrowed a moisture meter from the local lumber yard and is seeing 15% on stuff I've milled just two weeks earlier.
I'm convinced these dry logs are the reason I'm not getting more than about 400bf per band. They just get very hot after a half dozen passes and can't keep going after about 400bf (some even less). My thought is, if I'm right and it's because the wood is too dry for them, that I could slab with the 4 degrees and mill the cant with the stellits. I can change a band pretty quickly so I think the lost milling time would be made up by gaining on the cant and the extended life of both bands by not abusing the 4's on the cant and not using the Stellites (or carbides) on the bark.
What do you think?
I know nothing about stellite, or carbide band blades. But I have sawed quite a bit of dry Doug Fir, and Ponderosa Pine. 400 board feet is about right in my experience. If stellite, or carbide works out I'd like to know.
Quote from: 4x4American on May 15, 2017, 10:53:31 PM
I was thinking, if I mixed bar oil with the diesel fuel in my lubemizer, maybe it would weigh it down a bit more so it don't cover everything as much. I may experiment with that soon here
I used to use a 50/50 mix of bar oil/diesel blade lube. I finally decided that all the bar oil was doing was making my blade lube more expensive. If it's getting everywhere, on everything, smelling up the dog...you might be using too much blade lube. ;)
If theres rocks in the bark the client can clean them or spud debark them or buy you new bands,their choice. If they are plantation logs nails not likely,but First thing I tell my [potentail] client is blade damage is their problem,if it results from a hidden object. I have had the 'odd' scratch' on the clamp and the dogs I do admit and those ones are on me. I do not saw logs for those who dont accept this condition. I always take a few tipped blades when I go sawing.I sharpen my own with cbn and only use 10* because I cant be bothered dailing the sharpener in to other * I did try some turbo 7s and they were wonderful but they are dull now and will wait till I have gone through my current stock of 10s which I hope coincides with needing a new cbn. :)
It's hard with the lubemizer to not use too much. I have it on the lowest burst mode that lubemizer can do and it still gets everywhere. The smell is growing on me ;D