A neighbor asked me to see if I could find an chinese aftermarket carb for his old -Stihl 009 since I had good luck with the one on my 024. Looking around the net I havnt seen any so I'm assuming they may be too obsolete. Has anyone else seen any aftermarket carb for an 009 and is there a more common carb that would fit?
Any reason not to just put a carb kit in it?
Half the time they don't need parts just all the muck cleaned out.
He was told it needed a new carb, but I might ask him if he'd be willing to try just a carb kit. I did see several of those for sale so it might be worth a try. I havnt looked at it personally yet but i should be able to before long.
I've used an MS180 carb on small top handles. Look it over and compare impulse hole, throttle rod hole, choke.
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on September 02, 2017, 10:13:45 PM
He was told it needed a new carb, but I might ask him if he'd be willing to try just a carb kit. I did see several of those for sale so it might be worth a try. I havnt looked at it personally yet but i should be able to before long.
There is a nearby stihl dealer who won't do a pres/vac test but will sell you a OEM P/C at list price.
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on September 02, 2017, 06:08:30 PM
A neighbor asked me to see if I could find an chinese aftermarket carb for his old -Stihl 009 since I had good luck with the one on my 024. Looking around the net I havnt seen any so I'm assuming they may be too obsolete. Has anyone else seen any aftermarket carb for an 009 and is there a more common carb that would fit?
Suspect its the little Walbro unit. A coworker just bought a new chinese replacement for his Walbro (off of a weedwhacker) from of all places, Wal Mart online, was about $25. He said it worked perfectly. He was unable to clean his old carb out. You will need to get the Walbro number to get a close match.
Quote from: thedoublejranch on October 02, 2017, 09:18:59 PM
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on September 02, 2017, 06:08:30 PM
A neighbor asked me to see if I could find an chinese aftermarket carb for his old -Stihl 009 since I had good luck with the one on my 024. Looking around the net I havnt seen any so I'm assuming they may be too obsolete. Has anyone else seen any aftermarket carb for an 009 and is there a more common carb that would fit?
Suspect its the little Walbro unit. A coworker just bought a new chinese replacement for his Walbro (off of a weedwhacker) from of all places, Wal Mart online, was about $25. He said it worked perfectly. He was unable to clean his old carb out. You will need to get the Walbro number to get a close match.
Thanks for the info, I'll take a look on there and see what I can find 8)
Ok, I got the saw and pulled the carburetor. It is a walbro wt323. I may for now just attempt a pressure/vac/compression test and rebuild the carb and see if that helps it. If not I will start looking for a close match replacement carb, I hav'nt found any aftermarket wt323 carbs on the net so far.
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on January 25, 2018, 10:16:07 PM
Ok, I got the saw and pulled the carburetor. It is a walbro wt323. I may for now just attempt a pressure/vac/compression test and rebuild the carb and see if that helps it. If not I will start looking for a close match replacement carb, I hav'nt found any aftermarket wt323 carbs on the net so far.
Try reviving the old carb. Remove it from the saw, open the pump diaphragm cover, make sure the little strainer there is clean or clean it with a mix of liquid soap, coconut oil,enamel paint thinner and water (yes water). Put it back in place and close the cover.
Open up the metering chamber cover, remove the gasket and diaphragm carefully. Remove the H and L screws. The metering lever, valve spring etc.
Immerse the carb in the 'witch's brew' overnight.
Wash it out with a spray of water. Put everything back.
Connect up the priming pump with the carb immersed completely in a fresh batch of the 'witch's brew'.
Start pumping the primer. This should hopefully help clean out the carb of any residue build up.
After a minute of pumping, move the carb into plain water and keep pumping. This will rinse out the brew.
Next, move the carb into enough fuel to immerse it and pump to clean out the water.
Open up the carb on both sides, remove the H and L screws, lay everything out and let them dry out.
Reassemble the carb and fit it on the saw.
Use some nitro cellulose (PU is even better) thinner to flush out the fuel tank. Fit a new pickup body. Mix up a fresh batch of fuel using 2% 2Stroke oil and 2% coconut oil.
Keep idle screw turned in. L and H 2 turns out.
Spray some fuel into the inlet of the carb. With the spark plug out throttle wide open and ignition off pull the starter a few times. This will prime the engine.
Refit the plug, move lever to 'I' (no choke) and try starting.
If you are lucky it should start fine with a high idle and a bit of smoke. Once you think its running fine turn in the L and H and back off the Idle.
Let it run some more with regular blips of the throttle for a few minutes.
Fit the bar and chain and cut some wook to get the carb to draw in more fuel and air under load.
After all this, empty out the fuel tank,mix up a regular tank of fuel and run the saw to clear out the excess oil.
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on January 25, 2018, 10:16:07 PM
Ok, I got the saw and pulled the carburetor. It is a walbro wt323. I may for now just attempt a pressure/vac/compression test and rebuild the carb and see if that helps it. If not I will start looking for a close match replacement carb, I hav'nt found any aftermarket wt323 carbs on the net so far.
If its serviceable, not totally gummed up beyond repair, a genuine Walbro kit is about $10 max. The kit will come with way more parts than you need, its made to fit a wider variation, so pay attention to your old parts and remove the extra parts from the kit you know are not for your application to save confusion.
Quote from: joe_indi on January 27, 2018, 11:04:22 PM
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on January 25, 2018, 10:16:07 PM
Ok, I got the saw and pulled the carburetor. It is a walbro wt323. I may for now just attempt a pressure/vac/compression test and rebuild the carb and see if that helps it. If not I will start looking for a close match replacement carb, I hav'nt found any aftermarket wt323 carbs on the net so far.
Try reviving the old carb. Remove it from the saw, open the pump diaphragm cover, make sure the little strainer there is clean or clean it with a mix of liquid soap, coconut oil,enamel paint thinner and water (yes water). Put it back in place and close the cover.
Open up the metering chamber cover, remove the gasket and diaphragm carefully. Remove the H and L screws. The metering lever, valve spring etc.
Immerse the carb in the 'witch's brew' overnight.
Wash it out with a spray of water. Put everything back.
Connect up the priming pump with the carb immersed completely in a fresh batch of the 'witch's brew'.
Start pumping the primer. This should hopefully help clean out the carb of any residue build up.
After a minute of pumping, move the carb into plain water and keep pumping. This will rinse out the brew.
Next, move the carb into enough fuel to immerse it and pump to clean out the water.
Open up the carb on both sides, remove the H and L screws, lay everything out and let them dry out.
Reassemble the carb and fit it on the saw.
Use some nitro cellulose (PU is even better) thinner to flush out the fuel tank. Fit a new pickup body. Mix up a fresh batch of fuel using 2% 2Stroke oil and 2% coconut oil.
Keep idle screw turned in. L and H 2 turns out.
Spray some fuel into the inlet of the carb. With the spark plug out throttle wide open and ignition off pull the starter a few times. This will prime the engine.
Refit the plug, move lever to 'I' (no choke) and try starting.
If you are lucky it should start fine with a high idle and a bit of smoke. Once you think its running fine turn in the L and H and back off the Idle.
Let it run some more with regular blips of the throttle for a few minutes.
Fit the bar and chain and cut some wook to get the carb to draw in more fuel and air under load.
After all this, empty out the fuel tank,mix up a regular tank of fuel and run the saw to clear out the excess oil.
Hey Joe thats badass man, excellent job explaining that. Have you done any YT videos, you'd be a big hit....Roost
Not sayin' it doesn't work, but sounds pretty whackadoodle.:) I guess you work with what you have locally.
I break the entire carb down, put carb body & metal pieces in glass jar with the carb cleaner you buy by the gal at like NAPA. Put that in a USC that has just water in it and adjust the levels so they are the same. Use the heater, cycle a few time, take out and rinse with HOT water....blow dry with compressed air....put a complete carb kit in it correctly and you'll never have to look back.
The carbs look like they are brand new and even the tiniest of foreign particles are gone.
Kevin
Quote from: Hugeroost on November 09, 2020, 10:11:53 PM
Quote from: joe_indi on January 27, 2018, 11:04:22 PM
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on January 25, 2018, 10:16:07 PM
Ok, I got the saw and pulled the carburetor. It is a walbro wt323. I may for now just attempt a pressure/vac/compression test and rebuild the carb and see if that helps it. If not I will start looking for a close match replacement carb, I hav'nt found any aftermarket wt323 carbs on the net so far.
Try reviving the old carb. Remove it from the saw, open the pump diaphragm cover, make sure the little strainer there is clean or clean it with a mix of liquid soap, coconut oil,enamel paint thinner and water (yes water). Put it back in place and close the cover.
Open up the metering chamber cover, remove the gasket and diaphragm carefully. Remove the H and L screws. The metering lever, valve spring etc.
Immerse the carb in the 'witch's brew' overnight.
Wash it out with a spray of water. Put everything back.
Connect up the priming pump with the carb immersed completely in a fresh batch of the 'witch's brew'.
Start pumping the primer. This should hopefully help clean out the carb of any residue build up.
After a minute of pumping, move the carb into plain water and keep pumping. This will rinse out the brew.
Next, move the carb into enough fuel to immerse it and pump to clean out the water.
Open up the carb on both sides, remove the H and L screws, lay everything out and let them dry out.
Reassemble the carb and fit it on the saw.
Use some nitro cellulose (PU is even better) thinner to flush out the fuel tank. Fit a new pickup body. Mix up a fresh batch of fuel using 2% 2Stroke oil and 2% coconut oil.
Keep idle screw turned in. L and H 2 turns out.
Spray some fuel into the inlet of the carb. With the spark plug out throttle wide open and ignition off pull the starter a few times. This will prime the engine.
Refit the plug, move lever to 'I' (no choke) and try starting.
If you are lucky it should start fine with a high idle and a bit of smoke. Once you think its running fine turn in the L and H and back off the Idle.
Let it run some more with regular blips of the throttle for a few minutes.
Fit the bar and chain and cut some wook to get the carb to draw in more fuel and air under load.
After all this, empty out the fuel tank,mix up a regular tank of fuel and run the saw to clear out the excess oil.
Hey Joe thats badass man, excellent job explaining that. Have you done any YT videos, you'd be a big hit....Roost
Joe don't even know a 009 carb don't have a primer bulb.
What was he working on/smoking?
I have about 10 of those saws and have been unable to convert any other carb to work.The carb of a stihl 09,010,and 011 will work.The only difference is the linkage. The 09 uses a wire and the 010 and 011 use a cable.Check the seal on the flywheel side.I've had to change them in most of mine to get them to run right.It's a crap shoot on those carbs some can be cleaned and rebuilt and some can't.