The Forestry Forum

I was wonder how Eastern Red Cedar would work to build a Timber Frame style workshop? Not sure that it would be strong enough.
Thanks
Ron

I've built two saunas out of Red Cedar. What I found was cedar is only slightly weaker then say white pine, but a bit stronger them aspen so we made our posts and beams an inch thicker then we would have for a white pine frame.
Now considering that these saunas were only 10'x12' with a 12/12 gabled roof so we overbuilt a bit and weren't too concerned.
In your case once you have a clear idea of the shop's dimensions it will be easier to give suggestions as to what size beams and posts will suit your needs. Once the length of your spans and height of the shop, plus style of roof are determined then someone like Jim (who has all the cool toys) can give you a better idea of what your timber schedule should look like.
So I would say sure it can be built, you may need shorter bents, a little thicker timbers and perhaps a few extra braces. I'm quite sure Jim has software for just such calculations, where as I need another cup of coffee a calculator and a few hours :P

Timber_Framer,

I was looking at a shop that was around 40 x 48 ft. with 10 ft wall.The roof would be around a 5/12 pitch. I was looking to put tin on the roof. Might consider singles but the weight might be to much.  

What book would you recommend that I get that would assist in my building the shop? I know in the past I seen some recommednation on the forum but have not had a lot of luck finding those post. Also is post and beam the same as timber frame construction?

Thanks for your help
Ron

Timber Framing is identical to post and beam except that all of the joinery is wood. Mortise and tenon being the predominant joint used throughout most frames. Post and beam for lack of a better description uses fasteners. Steel plates and carriage bolts, screws etc. I've seen frames that used both techniques with wonderful results.
There are a number of good books on the market today but the two I would suggest are "Building the Timber Frame House" by Tedd Benson and "A Timber Framers Workshop" by Steve Chappell
Both books have chapters on structural design and the Benson book has a pretty good set of tables for figuring what size beams you'll need to carry your estimated loads. The Chappell book has four or five different frame plans with easy explanations for modifying them to suit your needs. This book also has a section on Framer's math and engineering.
You may find a deal on them from e-bay or half.com

  Unless you have some very good ERC I would not use it for timber framing other then small spans and light loads.  There are lots of knots and the wood is weak.  It splits out of mortises and peg holes deform to much for me.  It is better to use metal connectors and through bolts.  I would sell the ERC and buy SYP to build with.  I'd even swap with you.
ARKANSAWYER