Just started on my trailer decking 9" x 1 3/4" x 10' red oak this afternoon and one of my three logs has nails on 3 of the 4 sides after getting my 19" can't all squared up.
Besides pulling is there any options with blade type? I assume "no" but curious if there is a blade I can order for special circumstances where I need a quick turnaround and metal stands in my way?
Thanks for replies or funny comments on this question.
- Chris
Good question. I wasted 3 new blades on a 32" x 14 pine log because of nails or fence wire. I finally gave up on it and dumped a 20 x 20 cant in the woods.
Chris, a lot depends on what kind of nails and how you hit them. Common nails of 8 and16 penny are quite soft and if hit at about a right angle will do little permanent damage to the band. usually two or three teeth will be affected, if the teeth are not bent too much and the sliver of metal removed from the tip you can continue. The shorter the teeth and the closer they are will help a little. Frank C.
A "treasure hunter" metal detector can find most of that kind of nails and fencing. I use one I got from a pawn shop for $150, it hasn't lied to me yet. If I get one or two hits, I'll dig into it and try to pull it out. More than that it goes to the junk pile.
Quote from: cwimer973 on September 07, 2017, 08:09:31 PMI assume "no" but curious if there is a blade I can order for special circumstances where I need a quick turnaround and metal stands in my way?
The simple answer is that your assumption is correct. Everything about the teeth are different between metal and wood cutting blades. Just think about having to saw through a 2X4 with a hack saw. :-X
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I carry a special tool bag containing my nail removing arsenal. The blue handled nippers are the least used item.
Quote from: Sixacresand on September 07, 2017, 08:19:36 PM
Good question. I wasted 3 new blades on a 32" x 14 pine log because of nails or fence wire. I finally gave up on it and dumped a 20 x 20 cant in the woods.
If I paid 3 blades for it, I'd be having me a 20 x 20 bench somewhere.
I use the bounty hunter metal detector with a hammer, flat screw driver and visegrips. MM you know it's trouble when the drill comes out!
Pulling out the metal is the best option. BUT, what I do is save the older tired blades that have been sharpened way too many times. I sharpen them and store them separatly and use them in situations such as this. Bandmiller2's response applys here. Nuther thing I found, and this applys only to smaller nails, is to cut as fast as possible. Seems to munch less teeth allowing for a cut or two more before tossing the blade. Also keep young children and clergy folks away while cutting these (Admin language edit) nail ridden useless piece of (Admin language edit) logs. For obvious reasons :D :D :D :D
This log is about to get hurt
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Here in Sweden we can buy "bimetal blade". The teeth has the same steel as blades for metal cutting, HSS M42. With a hookangle of 4°-6° you are very close to a blade suitable for cutting steel. There is one big difference, in the log band saw you have a cutting speed about 60 miles/h. The cutting speed for steel would be 4-6 miles/h. If you can slow down to so low blade speed you can cut the nails but it will not cut the wood in the best way.
Back in business...you guys need to buy the Cresent Code Red with roll bar, what a tool.
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I thought you said small nails, i was kinda visioning finishing nails of some sort :D