I just ordered some blades from cooks and the salesperson says they recommend changing the blade after 3-4 hours of cutting then re-sharpen them. I'm not trying to start a debate or get into a lengthy discussion about blades and cutting. I would just like to hear how long people are using a blade when sawing pine with very few knots before they change it out. And yes, I know the brand and type of blades will make a difference.
It all depends on so many variables. Your question is controlled by things like type of machine, width of logs, dirt in bark, bf/hr, etc, etc, etc. you are likely to get a wide variety of answers but 3 hours sounds about like the maximum if you are making moderate production on a mid sized hydraulic machine like I run. Truth is your machine and cut quality are going to tell you when to change the blade.
I will say that sawing pine the blades last longer than most other woods.
For me anyway...
I use more bands when sawing pine
I may use 1 every 3 hours a milling time
A Debarker really makes a differents too.
I generally start my day with a new blade and change blades at lunch.
Take off the blade before I go home.
Just don't try to push a blade to long....its not good for it.
I can saw more Poplar with a blade than any other species in my area.
I seldom run a blade over 4 hours, but usually use 3 blades per day, so 3 hours is a good benchmark. If I loose blade tension because a blade gets warm/hot it gets changed no matter how long it has been on.
My 2 cents
You fellows are sawing mostly southern yellow (hard ) pine
Here in the north our pine is mainly Eastern White (soft) which I just bought a whack of.
It saws great IMO.
Bruno is it due to the pitch buildup?
However 3 hrs is about my average too.
Pete
I have a manual mill when it starts to push a little hard I change it out.
I think it does have a little to do with pitch build up.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on October 02, 2017, 06:57:40 PM
Pete
I have a manual mill when it starts to push a little hard I change it out.
I think it does have a little to do with pitch build up.
Pitch is the killer with syp logs. I used extra soap and a very good free flow to keep the blade clean. Problem there, big mess with dust sticking to the boards. Overall, I get about 400 BF out a resharpen blade. I'm sure if my mill had more Hp, I could get more. ;D
Thanks for the responses. exactly what I was looking for. I was just making sure I was on track. I've been changing every 3-4 hours. I don't wait for the cuts to get bad, I'd rather spend the $7.50 to re-sharp a blade a tad prematurely than risk breaking a blade and not being able to get it sharpened or ruined lumber with a wavy cut. I am usually cutting 2 or 3 blocks at a time into 2x's. So 1 wavy run down the mill and I could end up with 6 bad boards 16' long.
I would say three hours is a reasonable time to install a sharp band. Less time and you have probably got into grit or other dulling stuff. Much longer run and your pushing a less than keen band. My mill is electric and I can hear the band cutting, an evil sounding hiss and all well. Frank C.
I would be more inclined to go by how many bd/ft is sawn rather than by the hours spent. And I believe the first poster mentioned you would know by the performance is a pretty accurate statement.
I've sawn a fair share of SYP.. Cooks blades did pretty good for me, fast enough and a nice feel to the cut, the Kasco's won me over for resharpening and length of saw time in regards to bd/ft sawn. I know many folks have all kinds of stories, with all kinds of conditions. I had one Kasco blade go for over 2000 bdft, It was a resharp, here in my shed, and I would normally never run one like this, but for grins and giggles I pushed it, and it still was sawing straight and fast, I pulled it and used it again, this said, you will know by the performance and quality, my suggestion is go by that rule.
Length of cutting time per blade? Changed the bearings of the idler wheel on my B-20 today, dialed all the adjustments in, put on a EWP, made a cant, put on a new blade, cut one 1x10x10' and started the second cut. It wasn't cutting very well after skimming the top of the 1st log stop. Shucks! Not what I really said!
Since getting my mill, I have cut primarily Ponderosa pine. I find that blade life seems to run about what others are claiming. The Kasco's don't last quite as long as the Lenox blades in the same configuration. I mix windshield deicer water, pinesol, and liquid Cascade dish soap. Residue on the blades is minimal. The logs that are driest cut the cleanest. Green logs are not as forgiving for pitch and residue.
Hope this helps a little.
Thanks, I have had excellent results cutting with water, a but of used hydrolic fluid, a little dish soap, and a dash of fast orange. My blades are really really clean when I change them and I am cutting pine that I just cut down the day before that is full of sap.
i like to use diesel fuel when sawing pine...just a drip every now and then keeps the blade clean and shiny
Cutting fresh White Pine or Red Pine, I'll usually go through two blade per 8-10 hour day!
I usually cut 1,500-1,800 bf/day.
I use water liquid dish soap and pinesol, and the blade is usually clean unless I find a pitch-pocket!
Now, cutting "standing-dead" White or Red Pine is different, the build-up is horrific at times!