So I am about to cut some lap siding for the pole barn I'm building. ( need to update that thread). Ive seen how most cut a cant down by wedging up one side every othe cut. Pretty much got that figured out. I wondering how people air dry it? I guess just stack it with stickers and hope if don't twist? Thanks for any advice given.
I don't think that would work well. Personally I saw it to 1" boards, sticker and dry, then re saw them into siding. If you don't have that option then putting the siding up green may be a better option.
Perhaps running the stickers the long way would work to keep the twist out?
With the Adirondack [aka brainstorm] siding cut from soft pine they just stick it. It warps, twists and cups but the carpenter makes it look amazingly good. I had wanted to include in my inventory and could get it inexpensive from another mill. I never did because looks terrible dry and I know people would not buy it. This stuff is cut 1" at the bark to nothing at about 12". My idea was to put it on 12" sticks one row high braced up somehow.
I use 1/4" X 3/4" X the width of the siding between the angled cuts then a full length 3/4" X 3/4" stickers across the width of the stack on top of that--- repeat the next lift with 1/4" X 3/4" in the angles, and then full length on top them. Keep all the stickers "stacked" at about 16-18" apart.
Works pretty well on the spruce siding I mill up in this country where were pretty dry--- don't know how it will work down in your part of the world.
Bags, that sounds like good advice, extra work but that's what it takes to make a nice product.
I've dried it by stacking two boards together. In other words, tilt the cant and make a cut then level the cant and make another cut and stack those two pieces of siding on top each other. I can get by with that because in the summer here the RH is <30% and as low as 10 or 12%.
I've cut tapered lap siding from SYP and just stickered it like normal lumber. It came out fine, but it was from nice logs with no tendency to bow or crook when it came off the saw. I've put it up green also. If it's got air on both sides it will do pretty well when put up green. I do prefer to sticker and dry it for a while if possible. Putting it up green this time of year would probably be better than doing that in the summer.
I have put up all the horizontal lap siding green . The siding is not beveled and about 5/8 thick . We have done several houses and a lot of barns and buildings .
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I walked by the old wood shed for years. Had clapboards on it. Or so I thought. It fell over and than I could see the ½ boards.
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I cut straight boards and stick them like normal and install. Face nail so you just miss the top of the board under, just like the old timers did! :)
Lawg Dawg , wonderful job of saving old building . Nice work Sir .
Looks like I'll just cut 5/8 stock and nail it up no bevel. Just going to cover the top of the gable end of the shed any way.
Quote from: Florida boy on January 06, 2018, 06:34:30 PM
Looks like I'll just cut 5/8 stock and nail it up no bevel. Just going to cover the top of the gable end of the shed any way.
3/4 minus the kerf on a manual band mill comes out about 5/8+ and easy math. Nail it the way Lawg Dawg said. Never understood the desire to taper it.
Quote from: Florida boy on January 06, 2018, 06:34:30 PM
Looks like I'll just cut 5/8 stock and nail it up no bevel. Just going to cover the top of the gable end of the shed any way.
Well since you went that route I'll put up a pic of my first shed project. 5/8" also by 10 1/2" width a 2" overlap. That's my buddy Bob who helped me build it. He passed in October a couple weeks after we finished it.
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Never understood the desire to taper it.
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The fact you use half the fiber to produce the same liner foot of coverage means that profit per unit is greater to the mill. I sell tapered siding for less than non tapered and even with the additional work it is more profitable for me due to the fact I get almost twice the linear footage with the same board footage.
For small personal projects probly not worth your time to bevel and air dry. I just cut 5/8 thick and nail up green with 1.5" overlap. Wait for siding to cure before final finish coat.
I saw 5/8" x 8 exactly as Ohio_Bill and Lawg Dawg do. I stack it with 5/8" thick stickers spaced on 32" centres and let it air dry until I'm ready to use it.
Quote from: Lawg Dawg on January 06, 2018, 01:15:08 PM
... I cut straight boards and stick them like normal and install. Face nail so you just miss the top of the board under, just like the old timers did! :)
When you face nail this way, you can put the boards up green and let them shrink as they dry. Because there's only one row of nails through each board, there's no danger of the boards being pulled apart as they shrink.
Put the the bark side towards the inside.
have posted b4 about cutting lap siding: I cut straight (no taper), dropping the head 1/2" each time to yield 3/8" boards. I sticker and they dry in no time. I did a test of tapered and straight: after stickering, I lost over 50% of tapered clapboards to warping, less than 10% with the straight clapboards. Have used the lap siding (straight clapboards) on my house and new addition. Works great. Just make sure corner boards are 1" thick after planing so lapped clapboard isn't sticking past cornerboard. All the best, Rob.
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There sure is more than one way to skin a cat. On the homestead where I came from the siding was lapped , horizontal 6" tulip boards 4" to the weather not tapered. Each board had a very wide 'V' relief or notch cut on the back side to lay flat on the board under it. This siding was a finished product and at least 100yrs. old, painted many times. There are older houses just outside new York city that have wane edge lapped siding on the gable end ,painted. It's funny to see this in a rather formal area.
I've sawn quite a bit of "Live-Edge" siding, in this area most people refer to it as "Adirondack Siding"!
If some one says Adirondack siding [and that's what I call it] I know what they mean but up north the sawmillers call it 'brain storm' or 'barn storm' siding. Lane tech, a former lane sawmill builder, would put a tilt dog attachment to cut brainstorm siding. One of the owners of this firm told me while reading a book about Adirondack camps of long ago he found this term mentioned.
That's what I cut too, Mr White
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I sawed up some for my sawmill shack. Oak, and I installed green. What I found out was not to saw with in 2" of the pith. The boards I did saw close had split a little.
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I do have to saw up some that is 6" wide for my SIL to replace some boards on a old house he is rebuilding. It will be out of SYP and it will have to be stickered and air dry. So I was thinking of just stacking and stickering single stacks and band them. That should keep them from warping as they dry.
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I like to use Adirondack siding on hunting blinds...blends good with nature after it weather's a bit
When you guys make the Adirondack siding, I take it you do not taper saw it?
I cut mine 3/4"x 8" to 10" wide. I sell a 2"x3/4" starter strip for the bottom of the wall. That kicks it out. I sell my full 2" lumber for the trim around doors and windows. That way you have a 1/2" reveal on the trim.
I tell my customers to only nail the top. [hang it] Then make a pencil line at the bottom of the board. Go look and see how far the wood is away from the mark. Week or two. Make another mark.
When the wood stops moving, Nail the bottom with ring shank nails.
All W Pine.
Good idea Peter on the pencil mark.
So I have a question regarding hanging the lap siding green. I built a garage last year, but haven't put any lap siding on it yet. I did sheath it with 1/2" OSB, and there is Tyvek over the OSB to protect it till I get some siding on it. My question is will I have moisture problems if I now hang the lap siding directly over the Tyvek? My concern is there will be no way for the moisture to escape from the back side and will cause things to rot. Don't know if it makes a difference, but it would be Red Pine lap siding cut 8" wide with a 2" overlap. My gut says cut and dry then hang, but it would be nice to not have to handle the siding more than once. What say you?
Quote from: DeepWoods on January 09, 2018, 05:09:36 PM
So I have a question regarding hanging the lap siding green. I built a garage last year, but haven't put any lap siding on it yet. I did sheath it with 1/2" OSB, and there is Tyvek over the OSB to protect it till I get some siding on it. My question is will I have moisture problems if I now hang the lap siding directly over the Tyvek? My concern is there will be no way for the moisture to escape from the back side and will cause things to rot. Don't know if it makes a difference, but it would be Red Pine lap siding cut 8" wide with a 2" overlap. My gut says cut and dry then hang, but it would be nice to not have to handle the siding more than once. What say you?
I generally like to let it dry for a bit, but green works too if you put the nail in the right spot. Face nail 2 1/2" up from the bottom of the board with at least a 3" ring shank into the studs. It important to make sure you hit solid wood with each nail, not just the osb. Hand drive nails would be best.