I was wondering how do you all find your chainsaw mills for sawing (as far as speed) ? Are they as fast as a small bandmill ? And what size chain saw would you reccomend for cutting logs up to 30 inches in diameter ? If I go to get a chainsaw for a saw mill I want to also use it for cutting the trees I will be milling as well (weight of the saw wont matter too much).. I was looking into getting a band mill or a circular mill but I think getting something a little simpler would be better considering it will be mainly used for personal use..
Oh and before I forget do the chainsaws hold up well to milling ?
Thanks
I got my Granberg Alaskan mill on eBay from "Saw King" It is really hard work but has completely changed the scope of projects this family can take on. That are not as fast as a bandsaw mill and you really better be the physical type. BUT they get the job done if your expectations are set right. We use ours to creat rough cut lumber from farm related projects like stalls and barn repairs. At this point I couldn't justify a band saw mill. The Alaskan mill is too capable and certainly put a hold on that band saw investment.
Think 100c or larger for older saws like mine..my McCulloch is a one pull starter and has milled enough lumber for 7 horses stalls last month. No problems to this point.
On newer saws think over 80cc. Like a Husqvarna 385 or larger. More is better. The continuous nature of the load on a saw would lead you to think its hard on a saw. ...I haven't seen any signs of duress on my anchient old 797 McCulloch. I run 100LL Av-gas and Mobil One MX2T two stroke oil and the saw runs cool. Loose a bit of power running the higher Octane but the plug is tan and the Cooling Fins are actually cool enough to put your hand on after a cut.
The one component where I do see more wear is the clutch.
I use a 36inch sproket tip bar for a larger Stilh (suggested by Sawking eBay seller) with a 3/8 chain. I tried a .404 bar/chain combo and the 3/8 skip chisle chain gived a better fininsh at is easier to keep the saw on the powerband. The finish is good enough for the barn yard stuff we do. You would need a planer to make it finish quality...one thing is a band saw will give a much better finish.
Most of what I mill is 24inch to 30inch in diameter. the practical limit is 30inches from what I have found with my mill. Also I mill all hardwood. Hardwood Maple and Ash most recently.
Anyway its a do-able thing but is hard dusty tough work. I happen to like it and its another way to excersize my old saw( A hobbie of mine). Also it fits well with our fire wood operation required to heat our place during these long Central New York Winters!
Chain saw milling is hard work.
Good for remote locations but hard on the back .
You need a big saw, and it really works best with two saws, at least for me.
It's much slower than a band saw.
My advice would be get a small band saw to start out with and if it doesn't work out then sell it.
One more thing.
I spend around $200 dollars on the Granberg Mill Attachment and around $200 on the Saw. Complete ready to mill.
I have cut enough to create over 250 2X8X12ft boards. If I was to buy that it would be in the area of $3000 for the lumber from a mill or lumber yard. It would cost me at least $5000 for a band saw mill that can't handle the size trees I mill! Add another few hundred to EXTEND the band saw mill and you in the 6000 - 7000 dollar range for a 3000 dollar project...doesn't make sence.
AND now that we have figured out how to make this thing work for us it has just complete changed the scale of project we are able to take on. We cut our trees in the Fall/Winter time frame and then have logs we can cut to length required by a given project5 and chainsaw what we need for that project. Since ours are a never ending series of small unpercise projects its almost impossible to not factor a chainsaw mill into the projects. The flexibility in capability and schedulaling is priceless. for us. Best 400 bucks I have ever spent.
As I posted on another website we do have a very large project looming on the horizon where we can plan lumber requirements and the quantity is enough to justify a band saw mill...but thats another few years down the road as we tear into those projects we can do with the Alaskan Mill and I still enjoy building and running my old chainsaws.
How much do you want to do? If you are planning on milling a bunch o' logs, you won't be happy with a chainsaw mill. If you just want to slice up a handfull every once in a while, then a chainsaw mill looks good.
Can you move the logs where you need them to be cut. If not, the chainsaw mill wins again. I've cut a whack of boards that I could haul out of places I could never get a vehicle in to remove the log.
If you are going to do primarily big logs, a chainsaw mill looks better again, since it takes a big expensive mill to handle the big stuff. The last couple of times I've had my mill out was to trim some really big logs to fit on a mill. You could always hire a mill for the stuff you don't want to chainsaw mill.
Like the other guys said, it is a bunch of work, its hard on your back, is slow going, but for all I do, it was the perfect solution. If you are going to get a 36" mill, get a 42" bar, I've got 5-6" of mill going to waste until I replace my bar (It doesn't have long to go). I'm into my whole set with 3 chains for less than $600. Got the saw on ebay, well used, but a good runner. You will need a big saw. I'm running a Stihl 066 and even just shy of 100ccs, I'm running out of power a bit too often. Full skip chain helps, as well as helps keep the kerf clean. Wishing I had an 088 until I want to use it as a chainsaw, then the 066 looks pretty nice. Good all-arounder.
I could probably even lose some weight if I did it more often.
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but you lose almost a 1/2" of wood per finished board do to the larger kerf of the chainsaw? If you got plent of logs I guess it doesn't matter much. But I tell you what it is a great experience milling up your own boards with a chainsaw mill in a remote location.
I found that it helped to have a smaller saw and a beam cutter for cutting beams as well as cutting some of the boards down to smaller sizes.
I am using a ProCut chain saw mill (chain saw on a small trailer for a log deck). Basically, just roll the log unto the small trailer, which you can move by hand, and start cutting.
Nothing to set up for your first cut and you cut standing.
I am using a Husky 365 which limits me to about 16 inches, though 12 inches is the best cutting speed, with a 28 inch bar. You really need a 90+ cc so you can run a 32-36 inch bar.
I have found once properly set up you can saw about 12 feet a minute making 12"x2" stock using the ripping chain from Bailey's in white oak and it comes out looking planed. Being level and square really counts for making speed.
QuoteI was wondering how do you all find your chainsaw mills for sawing (as far as speed) ? Are they as fast as a small bandmill ? And what size chain saw would you reccomend for cutting logs up to 30 inches in diameter ? If I go to get a chainsaw for a saw mill I want to also use it for cutting the trees I will be milling as well (weight of the saw wont matter too much).. I was looking into getting a band mill or a circular mill but I think getting something a little simpler would be better considering it will be mainly used for personal use..
Oh and before I forget do the chainsaws hold up well to milling ?
Thanks
I have had great success using a Granberg mini mill to cut cants/beams from logs, with my 65 cc Jonsered and a 24" bar. My saw is a little undersized, but it works well for me on the smallish logs - 14 to 18" - I usually have access to.
Beyond that use, I would call chainsaw mills "sawdust mills" because that is what you get alot of. The 3/8" or more kerf wastes ALOT of wood. I couldn't imagine cutting alot of boards with one. It is a slow and messy process.
Somebody told me recently there are portable bandsaw mills you can take right to the log as well. I don't know much about these. Definitely more $$$ than a chainsaw mill, but better suited for cutting lumber.
Greg
A couple of things I left out above ! I want to try to keep this as cheap as possible LOL... 99% of the logs I will be cutting will be from 8 inches in diameter to about 18 inches I may have a few bigger. I was looking at an 18 inch band mill but I looked and found that the bigger husky and stihl saws have more horse power than the engine on the mill I was interested in.. I do have quite a few logs to cut. The lumber I need doesnt need to be smooth it can be rought im using it to build a fence, garage, and a cabin. I was thinking if I went with the chainsaw mill that id go with a 395xp husky and run it with a 24 inch bar. A 24 inch bar is all I should need and anything bigger would rob power for no reason. I do have my makita for cutting the trees anyways so id probably just leave the saw on the mill instead of trying to use it for everything !
How well do the clutch hold up in saws used for milling >
Thanks for all the advice..
QuoteA couple of things I left out above ! I want to try to keep this as cheap as possible LOL... 99% of the logs I will be cutting will be from 8 inches in diameter to about 18 inches I may have a few bigger. I was looking at an 18 inch band mill but I looked and found that the bigger husky and stihl saws have more horse power than the engine on the mill I was interested in.. I do have quite a few logs to cut. The lumber I need doesnt need to be smooth it can be rought im using it to build a fence, garage, and a cabin. I was thinking if I went with the chainsaw mill that id go with a 395xp husky and run it with a 24 inch bar. A 24 inch bar is all I should need and anything bigger would rob power for no reason. I do have my makita for cutting the trees anyways so id probably just leave the saw on the mill instead of trying to use it for everything !
How well do the clutch hold up in saws used for milling >
Thanks for all the advice..
I built my own chainsaw mill for around $300 , and mounted a Husky 372 to it. I Keep a Husky 350 for the bucking and trimming. What ever you do, have an assortment of bars and chains on hand, and mill with the smallest bar you can get away with. Long bars use horsepower, and you will notice a big difference between a 20 and a 24 inch when it comes to milling. Grind your chains to a mere 10 degrees instead of the standard 30 degrees and your lumber will come out smooth enough to sand with a sander, no planing will be necessary.
You lose more wood to the kerf than with a bandmill, but the mill is more portable and lighter. I load mine into a small trailer, go to my site and do my milling. After the day is over I roll the mill back into the trailer and slide the lumber in underneath the mill and home I go. I can mill about 500-600 bdft a day, depending on what kind of cut, type of wood, and how often I sit around and complain.
Check this outhttp://www.ripsaw.com/ Bandmill Kerf powered by a chainsaw ;D
I may try and come up with the money for a 3120XP and run a 24 inch bar on that.. That set up shouldn't be too bad ?
hi am in the tropics of north queensland australia .and run a 4ft 6"bar powered by a honda 13hp motor ,on a homemade frame ,similar to a bandmill frame . advantages of chain over band saw for me is simple to sharpen and general ease of use .run a chain with 2teeth and next 4-5 pair ground out .cuts just as quick ,but is a lot easier to sharpen ,and doesnt make hard work when ripping walnut, can and do cut the full width of bar,and maybe slow ,but beautifully smooth when sharpened correctly at 10degrees. cheers fron australia bob
Hi Bob and welcome to the forum
Allways good to get anouther member from 'Down Under' :)
Sounds like your machine is similar to a Lucas or Peterson dedicated slabber?
They seem to work well for slicing up those lovley wide slabs.
I'm sure the DIY guys here would like to see some pictures of your setup if you can manage it.
Makita
3120XP or a Stihl 088 are probably the best milling saws around, and with a small bar like that it should cut reasonably quick.
As an aside my mill is a swingblade powered by a chainsaw, old model Peterson. It works well although more power and less noise like the new ones would be nice. Now if you could find yourself an 090 saw, that would be the thing for chainsaw milling ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/ianab_090_on%20mill.jpg)
Ian
I'd still suggest you consider a bandmill if you have a lot of logs to saw. Chainsaw mills do work, they are very portable, they are a cheap way to break down big logs but they just aren't a very efficient way to saw normal sized logs.
MakitaDcs400,
Don't compare the horse power between the chainsaw mills and band mills. It don't work that way.
A band mill will need less HP due to less kerf. Now having said that, there are a ton of things that can affect that as well.
Personally I'm partial to a band mill due simply to the kerf.
I do have a 3120xp with a 72" bar that I plan to have milling by spring, but that's for some really over sized slabs I plan to cut. But if I had a band mill big enough, I'd rather use that. ::)
For the logs you are talking about, I'd seriously consider a small band mill. No point in throwing out a fence board with each board cut. My 2 cents.
QuoteMakitaDcs400,
Don't compare the horse power between the chainsaw mills and band mills. It don't work that way.
A band mill will need less HP due to less kerf. Now having said that, there are a ton of things that can affect that as well.
Personally I'm partial to a band mill due simply to the kerf.
I do have a 3120xp with a 72" bar that I plan to have milling by spring, but that's for some really over sized slabs I plan to cut. But if I had a band mill big enough, I'd rather use that. ::)
For the logs you are talking about, I'd seriously consider a small band mill. No point in throwing out a fence board with each board cut. My 2 cents.
Well said! That is one of the biggest disadvantages that I found with a chainsaw mill, you lose a lot of wood in sawdust. And talk about sawdust! After an afternoon you can plan on a pile of total waste as high as your waist! I haul my stuff back to the house if at all possible to the bandmill. I often will take the chain mill if its large stuff, I dont have any way of loading logs except the grunt and pull method, so the chainsaw mill works great for breaking a large tree down into more managable pieces, or if I just want large posts and beams it works great for that.
I'll throw my 2 cents in.
I own a logosol M7 chainsaw mill. I haven't had it long and have only cut a few logs. It makes wonderful lumber, but the kerf is larger than a bandsaw (not that big'a deal) and makes lots of sawdust. It's powered by a stihl 066 and its fast enough in red oak to make me happy... If the chain is sharpe it will move along fairly quickly... not at regular walking tempo, but fast enough. I'm milling by myself so high speed is not important to me. I spent less than $2000 on the set up... judging by the cost of red oak at the home depot I will recover my cost before I know it.
I'd love to have a bigger saw like the 3120 for those times when I have someone else to pull the lumber for me. I've got another 066 mag waiting a turn to mill so the 3120 will probable have to wait.
Milling with it is work though. At least I'm not down on the ground with the log, as my knee's couldn't take it.
I also considered a swinger and bandmill before I decided to go the M7 route. I like to make houshold items, but the main reason for the mill was to make beams for timber frame and fencing materials. The M7 fits the bill and at a resonable cost ( to me anyway ). Its also very portable, I can throw the mill in the back of my truck and go almost anywhere the 4x4 can go, mill my log, stack the lumber in the truck, put the mill on top of the stack, go home.... not sure on the actual weight of the mill, but its less the 100 lbs by my recon'n. Would work great on a trailer behind a 4 wheeler.
As for using the same chainsaw to cut the tree's and then mill them.... I don't see why not, you'd have to change chains to start milling, but thats not a big deal. I have other saws for taking them down or bucking them to size, but if I didn't, I'd change the chains.
My type mill is more $$ than the alaskan type, but worth it to me.... one of the January woodworking mags did an article on 8 or 10 personal sawmills... you might checkout the Mag rack at the local store and read the article... I can't remmeber which Mag it was though.
Geez, this was more than 2 cents worth... sorry so long.
I have a M5 Logosol. The powerhead is a 066 Stihl. There is no doubt in my mind unless you have the money to spend on a pretty good size Woodmizer you are head and shoulders way better off with a chainsaw mill. Around $2000.00 will put you in one and you will never look back I promise unless you are going in the full time business. These little mills are great for a serious do it yourselfer and you would have to spend 5 times the money to get the same thing from a Woodmizer. They are not the fastest thing in the world but I can make a cut in 16" pine 12' long in less than a minute. That aint too bad unless your trying to make a living. You can saw real long stuff as well, which is something I will be using for my timberframe in the new year or two. I have nothing but compliments about my Logosol and I think you will feel the same if you try one.
Sorry guys, not looking to start anything, just putting the info out there.
For my bandmill, I paid WAY less then twice the $$$ you are talking about for a higher end chainsaw mill. Mine was used. I can pull it behind the truck, cut a 20" cant, and if I really wanted and had a straight log, cut a 30" dia. log. All with less waste and a lot faster. I cut a lot of smaller stuff with it. I have a couple of piles of logs in the 10" on down range. With the band mill I can pull several boards from those logs with little effort.
Not saying by any means that it's a better way to go, but for what I wanted, it works.
Like I said before, I'm planning to use my chainsaw mill for the oversized stuff. I'm not totally writing off chainsaw mills.
Another point is if you saw to sell or have a limited amt. of logs the amount of sawdust that isn't boards will eventually cost more than you could ever save paying less for a chainsaw mill. Logs cost alot and will cost more in the future. Lumber costs will keep going up too. :o
clear as mud? I guess if you're sawing junk and need sawdust ok, but you'll go broke and maybe even not know it if you start sawing high grade stuff. Flame suit on ::)
The stuff I get would either rot or be burned, I don't feel much guilt, nor do I get much of a sense of waste. There is no way in h-e-double toothpicks that you could get some of the logs I've sliced up out of where they were resting, nor could you get a bandmill down there. Your reasoning works well for a production guy, but not a salvage guy.
Besides, I don't have a place to park a bandmill.
I'm a salvage guy in EVERY way!!!
Ya should see this place! ;D
That big old oak tree is still down by the freeway where its been for about 8 months now. If it weren't so wet....gotta be 45" DBH....I figure they will want it "gone" pretty soon.
Now the Columbo part kicks in...
Have a good weekend.
Better be careful, around here if someone removes a log or tree from along the highway, they prosecute. They actually put up metal highway signs along one stretch, asking for any info on who removed the State's trees. If it's within the highway right away, watch yourself.
In Illinois road workers cut up wood to fireplace size and leave it behind for who ever wants it!! :o
Is that State and Federal Highways/Expressways, or just regular roads, there's a difference??? It gets left behind along regular roads for the property owners.
It's Illegal to stop along a highway/expressway with out a permit, for other then emergency reasons. Least that's what I was told. ::)
They had a serious crew in to trim it up and just left it from there. It is sitting just like when they left it. Gonna call the golf course and start the investigation.
The temptation has been there too long, and nobody else appears to have been after it.
Yeah, I know what ya mean. ::)
I know where there was a fair amount of Red Oak down or almost down in a wide median. They cut the stuff closer to the road and just let the other stuff to rot. Still a few I wouldn't mind getting, but it's right near the area they posted for the other missing trees. Not worth it I guess. ::)
:-[ One more note on Chainsaw VS bandsaw from a health and safety perspective:
2 stroke exhaust is not that great for you. I ran a chainsaw mill for a while to produce floor boards and beams. It worked ok, but I couldn't stand the amount of exhaust it put out. Now, an old 075 in poor tune is not a great reference point, I know, but it still bears a bit of thinking about. With a band saw you will be sucking up less exhaust, and it will not be burned 2 stroke oil!
Most of the professional cutters I know (chainsaw spacers and brushers mostly) use Optimal 2, which works at a 100:1 mix. This reduces the fumes substantially. However, I don't think there is any way to clean up a 2 stoke saw to the point where is matches a clean running 4 stroke engine. Also, with the engine running at waist level, I find the exhaust tends to hover around instead of disipating. Maybe I should find windier locations to cut!
Anyone else out there share this concern, or have you not found it to be an issue. Maybe I'm just overly sensetive ::)
Yep, if I'm not careful, the fumes from a chainsaw can make me sick real easy. Not a bit of trouble from my bandmill.
It would probly blow a chainsaw miller away how much wood can be cut on the same amount of gas with a band mill, and there is none of that burning oil involved.
Not to say its not true for others, but I have not had any issues with the fumes from my saw on the mill. I don't run the optima 2, but I may have to give it a try. I don't recall ever seeing it anywhere, what types of retail places carry it?
I have gotten more than my share of fumes while limbing and bucking and would love to reduce that if possible for health reasons.
The fumes from a 4 cycle are not exactly healthy either, but neither are eggs or bacon or a 100 other things that I like ;D
The chainsaw mill will never be for the high production guys/girls , but for us smaller/hobby users it is cost effective and the lost boards to sawdust are not a huge issue at the volumes we cut.
If there is any breeze at all, I don't get any bad whiffs. Worst thing for me is that when I have Sawwood on the other end, the upright gets really hot with the front firing exhaust.
I have fewer complaints about chainsawmill exhaust than I did the Lawn Boy I couldn't stand to be behind. I was always breathing LB exhaust, I only suck some chainsaw mill exhaust in every once in a while. Although I did have one no breeze hot day that was bad.
I was wondering if some of you folks that use chainsaw mills could recomment what to use for cutting slabs with. I can cut up to 28"'s on the wm but would like to cut some slabs from the bigger logs I get in. I have a 3120 husky to use.
I use a mask with the chain saw mill, it helps with the fumes and --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/photo/13012199/14138484YHJZryGlYK
Norm, for anything that large you could mill it with the Alaskan but you would need an additional oiler on the far end of the bar.
If the milling of the slabs is just to get the log on the mill fee hand would be an option.
Thanks Kevin, I want to make a few up for my own use, new desk and such. I'll look into the Alaskan. :)
This discussion really is interesting based on a persons perspective.
I mill for myself and for my projects out of my own woods. It frees me financially and time wize to do projects in my time frame using wood cut to my particular specifications. I can mill fast enough to meet my time schedules....and the ONLY people around here where I live who give me greif are those who have either purchased someone elses services and need to justify that expense or those who have INVESTED in a nice band saw setup for production and now need to COMPETE with the home owner who can do his own stuff. (Some of the locals have been almost hostile taking the "how dare you take business away" type attitude..no kidding.) I would hate to be a guy close by who has invested in a service watching me and others around here who are seeing how this works. Makes that sale a little tougher when we have options where we never thought there were option.
I have to say if I was doing really large projects, and that equates to the same mindset as production oriented milling; I would buy (And probably will buy) a band saw mill for the smaller wood for all the reasons mentioned above. Especially because a band saw mill would allow me to utilize some of my smaller trees for lumber. But for now I am milling BIG trees. Many are over mature Maples & Ash. I have been getting way better results than all the naysayers around here said I would. So my expectation was lower than reality...therefore I am happy. That Alaskan mill setup was the best 400-500 bucks I have ever spent. Allows my family to move forward at our pace on projects I never dreamed would be possible. Its like money, once you have the capability you wonder how you ever did without. And that is even before you factor in this lumber making deal is yet another way to engage my old saw hobbie to productive results. The new saw dealer.......well thats another story. Bet I have less in my 6-7hp class saws in mass (all three of them and all the parts I have bought for them) than it would cost to buy one new. Bet they last long enough for me to complete my tasks here on this earth as well.
I have to say that for me the old saw hobbie IS NOT driven by their cost & value..never has for me and never will..but its turned out to be a definable benifit. Same with chainsaw milling.
Another note about how municipalities deal with tree cutting. The one I work for takes the approach the the land owner gets the wood if he wants it. If the LAND owner gives permission...drag it away. We maintain around 240 miles of roads and run tree crew spring &fall. Typically we will cut the trees to either firewood size so people CAN pick it up and get it OUT of our right-of-way or 8ft sections for farmers to make fence post. (Locust) State actually does the same where they can. The freeways & high trafic secondary roads require a bit more thought & restrictions (and therefor HAVE more restrictions) because of the liability issues.
Very interesting discussion. I really, really want a fancy expensive bandmill. One with all the hydraulics and stuff. But, it's just NIB (not in the budget) and may stay that way for a while. :'( In the last year, I've put some straight stuff in the wood boiler pile that could have made some kind of lumber. It pains me to burn a straight wood, but, I often find myself with only a small amount of straight wood. So, I am interested in a chainsaw mill, to avoid this type of waste. I've looked at the various chainsaw mills on the internet, but find the pictures and descriptions lacking. I would be interested in seeing pictures and reading descriptions of the operation of various chainsaw mills, to help me develop a more educated opinion on these mills.
Go to google and click "images", do a search for "chainsaw mills".
Lots of interesting ideas.
Also look through the forum image archives here.
Barkman don't give up on a bandsaw yet.I have a Thomas Mill made in Brooks ME.www.thomasbandsawmills.com I live in Chesterville,maybe 1/2 hour from you. It's buried in snow now and I'm busy building the wife a addition to the greenhouse.Have all the lumber sawed and I have it in the greenhouse I built her last year. You're more than welcome to come up and see it.They will be at Bangor and they have open house through the summer to see the saws in use.They will be at a few Fairs too.I think you can buy a small one for $5000.I know that's alot more than a chainsaw mill.These are all manual mills.
Thanks for the tip. I had never heard of them. Definitely worth investigating. :P How much does it cost you to operate one of these and is the maintenance difficult or time consuming? Also, is there much of a learning curve to operating one? I've watched a couple of bandmills operate, but that's the extent of my experience with them. I guess thats part of the reason I was leaning toward a chainsaw mill initially.