I have an older husqvarna 61, the fuel line rotted. I went to my local dealer he said the fuel line is a special order. Then he started describing the process to replace it. He has to split the saw open, when he does the rubber shock are probably deteriorated..... By the time he is done I am looking at $150+ to replace a fuel line. He quoted the line as $14, each shock at $14 (I think he said there are 6), plus a filter $10, and labor. Seems a little steep for a 20 year old saw. Remember this is all Canadian $.
I thought Husky fuel lines were just straight line, unlike Stihl's molded ones? It sounds a little suspicious to me. Should go straight from carb to tank.
Quote from: Dave Shepard on January 30, 2018, 12:06:27 PM
I thought Husky fuel lines were just straight line, unlike Stihl's molded ones? It sounds a little suspicious to me. Should go straight from carb to tank.
The fuel line for the Husqvarna 61 is a moulded line.
But you can change the line without dismantling the saw. You might have to pull off the carburettor, but that is all.
Seems you can let the carburettor stay put - look here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiM4zU1Xf9o
I agree, I think I will change the line myself. I usually do most work myself, just thought I would give him some business. But $150 bucks is too much for a $200 saw.
I am pretty lucky I guess with the dealer I have. He will either do it for a nominal fee, or grab a used saw out of the back and show me exactly how he does it and what he uses to get the job done. No charge for this and it takes him as long as just installing it himself. I have even had him give me a little wire puller he makes to pull the fuel line in some saws.
Husky 61 is my absolute favorite saw hands down, there is none easier to work on and ive had 60 or 70 saws. I think i have 4 of them now?
Get on ebay or google, china makes nearly every replacement part for that saw and they work fine. You can put fuel line, filter and all new AV dampers in for like $20 or less i bet. Very easy to work on with just a scrench and some allen wrenches unless youre splitting crank.
Not to steal your post. I have a 61, and it cuts great, but it can get contrary at times about starting. Anybody have any idea why sometimes it will start normaly and sometimes it won't attempt to fire.
Harry
Mine doesn't like to idle more than 40 seconds. Its annoying but a fun old fossil
It also floods easy when hot starting. I busted the pull start assembly once
I like the 61 as well. It is my back up for my 455 rancher. In some ways it is better The 455 won't idle for more then 30 seconds, usually stalling just as I am ready to pull the throttle. The 61 idles indefinitely for me. The 61 is about same hp, but a little heavier. that being said I have already had to have the piston and ring replaced in the 455. the shop broke my primer bulb when the fixed the 455, now it vibrates loose and the fuel line pulls off. I have to fix that too.
If you dont know how to adjust a carb, read madsens saw shop articles in their tech section. Then try tuning.
If it still wont idle, pull muffler or plug and verify it hasnt scored the exhaust side.
If that isnt it, the silk diaphragm in the carb has likely hardened up or the float tab needs adjusting. I have one thats tuned flawless and pulls a 24" bar buried in oak no problem, but needs ether to cold start. I just leave the lid off.
My only gripe is the oldschool fuel tank vents tend to leak if laid on side. Oh well.
I have never had a 61, nor used one, but I was always under the impression they were more saw than a 455, am I wrong?
They are. 61cc vs 55cc. All metal crankcase construction on the 61, big pattern bar mounts.. i believe ranchers are a plastic case and clamshell jug like husky350/jonsky2155 ? They also have rubber intake boot where the 61 was a plastic intake block and paper gaskets.. Which never give me trouble.
The 61 accept jugs from husky 262, 268 and 272. You have to cut the lid a bit for the 72cc jug.
Husky 61 is to the 372xp as chevy 302 is to the vortec 350
Old stiff carb diaphrams or a too wide of a gap in the spark electrode can cause a poor idle.
Check crank seals too.
Mike, I have had a 266 for years, and it has been a great saw. It started life as a fallers saw in Montana, so has seen much use, not so much the last 10 years though.
I am having idle issues with my 61 also. I replaced fuel line, crank seals, o- ring on oiler gear plate and still same. Has anyone ever needed to replace that big gasket between when the saw is split in half? I guess it can suck air from their also? Mountain.
Maybe the crankshaft seals are bad.
The easiest way to check that is to unscrew the oil pump and look at the one there. If it is just half bad you should change them both. And the O-ring, and the X-ring for the oil pump.
You can make flat sheetmetal plates with rubber inner tube gasket to block off the muffler and intake, then use a compression tester kit to adapt spark plug to NPT and build a shrader air fill with gauge. Now pump the crankcase full of air with a bike pump and watch the gauge. If it leaks down submerge in bucket to find the bubbles. I also pull vacuum on them same way.
This is why im way bigger fan of old husky than stihl.. The boot style intakes are a pain to test.
I suspect its your tuning or carb "float" tab setting. A leaking crankcase will run lean and melt the piston in 10 minutes or so.
hardened up silk wont pump fuel at low impulse.
mike_belben is right, that is the correct way to do it, but on the -61, and on the rest of that family, the right hand seal is located located in the oil pump, which is easy to unscrew and check.
I'd just check the seals, and replace if needed.
But by doing as Mike Belben writes, you are sure if it is leaking somewhere else. That IS the correct way to do it!
Quote from: sablatnic on February 05, 2018, 11:35:41 AM
Maybe the crankshaft seals are bad.
The easiest way to check that is to unscrew the oil pump and look at the one there. If it is just half bad you should change them both. And the O-ring, and the X-ring for the oil pump.
I am familiar with the O-ring under the plate where the oil pump is, but what is the "x" ring? I do not know that one? Can you give me more info on the x- ring? Thanks. Mountain.
Replaced the fuel line in the 61, took about 20 minutes only because I had to make a wire that would hold the hose and not rip it. Saw runs like a top again.
I had the 455 rancher out a couple days ago cutting spruce saw logs. I was having problems with it stalling at idle. If it idled long enough for me to pick it up again, it would die when I pulled the throttle. I noticed however that when the saw fell over on its side, it would idle fine. I started leaving it on its side when I put it down, no issues after I started doing this.
As the silk fuel pump diaphrams get harder with age they move less fuel and at idle the low impulse means even less pumping Tipping over might either help gravity feed or make tank venting improve, something like that.. Just enough to offset the issue.
It is located around a expansion pin which delivers the oil from the pump to the bar. It is probably around 3/32 inner diameter.
Quote from: sablatnic on February 07, 2018, 04:30:31 PM
It is located around a expansion pin which delivers the oil from the pump to the bar. It is probably around 3/32 inner diameter.
Ok, thanks. I will check that out. That may be my problem. Mountain.
A bad X-ring will not keep it from idling, but it will leak oil when running.