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General Forestry => Sawmills and Milling => Topic started by: ljohnsaw on July 11, 2015, 12:58:54 AM

Title: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 11, 2015, 12:58:54 AM
I have a cabin build thread going (no building yet, just moving dirt and such) where I mentioned I was building a sawmill (bandmill).  So, here is the official build thread...

I started my build quite some time ago (almost embarrassed to say close to 2 years... ::)).  I made one set of track (16') and cut the material to make two more (16'-6" and 8') that will plug into each other giving me a total cut length of around 35' that I need for some massive beams that will be spliced together to make five 54' beams.

I've posted this picture before - this is the bed/track I've completed so far.  The rail is 2x3x angle iron sitting on some #5 'C' profile iron on 2x4x box beams.  The jacks are 2,000 lb rated that I got for free from a friends scrap (12 of them).  The log stops and dogs are not installed in this picture.  The log bunk design is borrowed from another FF member's build.
 

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/150107_005.jpg)

DISCLAIMER: YES, I will install blade guards!

So here is the head.  I had to suspend it from my ceiling joists in my garage to lay it down to remove it.  It stands seven feet tall and my garage header is 6'8" ::)  It is made from a salvaged computer rack (uprights) and some salvaged 2x2 thin wall frames that were originally 4'x8' but I made them roughly 2'x8'.  This is a vertical mill - you can cut the trees while they are still standing  :D

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_head_1.jpg) 

Setting it up on the track

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_head_2.jpg)

I salvaged some gearing from some large rolling file cabinets that were being thrown out at my old work.  Combining a bunch, I made this hoist setup.
 

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Lift_gearing_1.jpg)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Lift_gearing_2.jpg) 

The head is pretty darn heavy so I added a "tool balancer" that has about 40lb of lift, running through the block giving me 80+lb of lift.  It is the white thing hanging at the top with the " cable.  I have a smaller 25lb one on the other side.  If I let the hoist go, it will descend slowly.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Lift_gearing_3.jpg)

I have a 2.5hp treadmill motor running it.  I cut a double V groove (to match the pulley installed on the back of the tire rim) in the flywheel.  It measures out a 8" and is turning the 14" pulley attached to 21.5" doughnut spare tires.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Drive_1.jpg)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Drive_2.jpg)

I parted out a scissor jack to make the blade tension system.  The hubs are from the rear end of a front wheel drive Toyota.  They pivot to adjust tracking and a small bolt sets the angle (on the wheel side).  The blade tracks really well.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Tension_Adjustment.jpg)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Toe_alignment_idle_side.jpg)

More pictures to come.  I just noticed I didn't get the blade guides (home made).

I had picked up a redwood tree (three 8-9' lengths) a while back and they have been paitenly waiting on my mill build.  They ended up getting a little dry rot but were a good exercise for my mill.  It cut true (though not completely square) with no wave.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Punky_Redwod.jpg)

Issues:  I designed the drive system ratios because of what I read about blade speed.  My calcs were based on the need for about 60mph (5,000 fpm) top end.  I used the motors top rated rpm.  I haven't had the guts to run it flat out yet.  My ratio gives about 4.26 times the speed the tread mill thinks the old belt is moving.  The tread mill maxes out at 10mph, or tire speed of 42.6mph (3,750fpm) blade speed.  I've run it up to 5.5mph (6 once or twice).  It cuts quite well at that speed but starts to bog down.  The logic in the controller doesn't want to make quick adjustments (for safety of the runner), so it has a bit of trouble catching up if I bog it too much.  If I keep running at 4.5 mph or better, it keeps up until it pops the circuit breaker on the controller (15amp).

Several times, it has gone into a runaway mode - not sure why.  It will just keep getting faster until the breaker pops.  It usually pops about 6.5mph (~2,500fpm).  But it sure cuts fast when it is moving that fast.

Options:  I like running on electric and have a couple of options.
1) I could redo the ratio to halve the tire speed so the motor will need to run faster giving more torque.  I think that will solve the bogging and circuit popping issues.
2) I might have a DC controller that would work for this motor.  However, it wouldn't have the feedback loop to try and maintain a set speed.  I would have to "play it by ear" when cutting.

Option 3 would be to install a 7hp gas engine I have laying around (I think it runs).  While this would make it completely portable, it would be heavier, noisier and I would need to rework the belting ratios.

Comments or suggestions?
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 11, 2015, 06:02:55 AM
You could make a cheap fixed one speed DC power supply for your motor.
And if you still need more power you could hit up the junkyard for another motor and have two
mounted at the same time.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: thecfarm on July 11, 2015, 06:11:31 AM
Sounds like it cuts good.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Magicman on July 11, 2015, 08:05:33 AM
 :o  You have lotsa hardware in that build.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 12, 2015, 12:05:23 AM
The DC controllers that I have are only good to 1hp so no-go on a replacement.

Here is the blade guides.  The idle side only has to do a little down pressure because when I redid the blade tension setup, I move the idle wheel down a little.  Those bearing stay nice and cool.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_blade_guide_idle_side_1.jpg)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_blade_guide_idle_side_2.jpg)

The drive side has a bit of down pressure and the bearing does get a bit warm.  When I start running coolant, it will be getting a good bath and should be ok.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_blade_guide_drive_side_1.jpg)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_blade_guide_drive_side_2.jpg)

The red handles lock the side to side movement, bolts lock the tilt angles and in/out against the blade movement.

Update on operation:  I ran the unit up to to speed.  When it hits 7.1 mph (treadmill speed), the 15 amp breaker pops so there is not enough power to run the mill in the current configuration.  I was able to set the speed to 5.5 and keep it going (bogging down) to 4.5 or so.  That let me cut some boards from the 8' redwood log.  It took way too long - the treadmill console has a timer on it - one board took 6 minutes, the next about 5.  As Tim the Toolman would say, "more power!, Arrh arrh arrh".

I'm planning on mounting up a 7hp Subaru engine from a power washer and see how that goes.  I'm using 1.25" Woodmizer blades - any recommendations on the blade speed with this size engine?
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 12, 2015, 10:24:01 AM
Pretty impressive build, I must say!  I think going to the gas engine will be better for now but I think you'll still want and need more power for any kind of efficient milling.  I bought a Honda clone from Harbor Freight, the 13hp 420cc engine and I'm very happy with it.  Those engines now have raving reviews and I agree.  With the 20% off coupon and 2 year replacement warranty with no questions asked it came out to around $380 if I remember correctly.  I realize that it's easy for me to spend your money but I'm just sharing what I know to work well.  They also have at least a 5hp electric motor there for around $200.  I actually had an employee tell me that when the two years is about up to just blow the engine up and come back and get a new one.  Can you imagine?  My conscience wouldn't allow me to do that and I said that.  He said that's what all the contractors around there do.  I just politely shrugged it off and continued on.  Kbeitz's idea of running 2 motors together would be easy enough to do and would probably work just fine as well!
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 12, 2015, 11:46:57 AM
I got a 13hp Honda engine on my homemade mill. My band wheels are 17" dim.
My ratio is 5 to one . Hope this helps.
Note.
I need to run WOT so I don't get waves. So maybe 4 or 4.5 to one might be a little better.
I wont change my mill because it's working great at WOT.
Maybe someone can help me out. I not the best with math.
But the way I look at it my blade is running at 4533fps.
3200RPM engine speed  X 17 inch wheel  divided X 12 to get feet = 4533... Right ???
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 12, 2015, 11:52:53 AM
I got a 13hp Honda engine on my homemade mill. My band wheels are 17" dim.
My ratio is 5 to one . Hope this helps.
Note.
I need to run WOT so I don't get waves. So maybe 4 or 4.5 to one might be a little better.
I wont change my mill because it's working great at WOT.
Maybe someone can help me out. I not the best with math.
But the way I look at it my blade is running at 4533fpm.
3200RPM engine speed  X 17 inch wheel  divided X 12 to get feet = 4533... Right ???


Opps... Wait... I think I forgot to also divide that by my 5 to one ratio.
That would take me down to 906 FPM
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 12, 2015, 11:59:13 AM
Wow... I never looked at my speed before... My speed looks slow...
So I googled it and came up with this...

Here are some guidelines: 8 hp max speed 3,500 fpm, 12 hp max speed 4,000 fpm, 16 to 18 hp max speed 4,500 fpm, 25 hp max speed 5,000 fpm, 30 hp and above max speed 5,500 fpm.

off this link...
https://www.cookssaw.com/index.php/increase-portable-sawmill-profits-a-production/how-fast-should-a-bandwheel-turn

I cant beleve my saw cuts so good. Unless my math is off... Anyone want to check ?
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 12, 2015, 01:41:15 PM
The 7hp motor I have I received from my neighbor.  He hadn't run it in a number of years.  I found a gas tank with a bit of water and tons of rust.  The carb bowl was packed with rust and the fuel cutoff valve wouldn't budge. :(  I happened to have parted out a Honda lawnmower (bent crank) and saved the carb.  It fit but is rotated a little.  Rebent the governor linkage and it fired right up (once I turned the gas valve the right way! :D)  Only problem is the linkage is backwards, wants to run flat out!  But it runs 8)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on July 12, 2015, 01:58:25 PM
Kbeitz
The forum caculator has you at about 3000 fpm =/-.  It is located at the toolbox icon at the bottom of all the adds on the left of your screen.  It does the math for you and for me and I would be losts without these types of caculators.
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 12, 2015, 04:22:27 PM
Kbeitz
The forum caculator has you at about 3000 fpm =/-.  It is located at the toolbox icon at the bottom of all the adds on the left of your screen.  It does the math for you and for me and I would be losts without these types of caculators.
gww

Thanks...,  But thats not going to work for me ...
My system has a jack shaft so I have 4 pulleys .
That program uses 2.

Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on July 12, 2015, 08:24:38 PM
K
Got you, well that takes me out of the ball game,  Member "Stroker" figured my jackshaft speed out for me.
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Den-Den on July 12, 2015, 09:44:02 PM
I got a 13hp Honda engine on my homemade mill. My band wheels are 17" dim.
My ratio is 5 to one . Hope this helps.
Note.
I need to run WOT so I don't get waves. So maybe 4 or 4.5 to one might be a little better.
I wont change my mill because it's working great at WOT.
Maybe someone can help me out. I not the best with math.
But the way I look at it my blade is running at 4533fps.
3200RPM engine speed  X 17 inch wheel  divided X 12 to get feet = 4533... Right ???
3200 engine rpm / 5 to one ratio = 640 wheel rpm
17" dia wheel X 3.14 / 12 = 4.45 ft per revolution of wheel
640 rpm x 4.45 ft/rev = 2848 ft/min
Assuming that I understand your rig.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 13, 2015, 02:58:45 AM
I got a 13hp Honda engine on my homemade mill. My band wheels are 17" dim.
My ratio is 5 to one . Hope this helps.
Note.
I need to run WOT so I don't get waves. So maybe 4 or 4.5 to one might be a little better.
I wont change my mill because it's working great at WOT.
Maybe someone can help me out. I not the best with math.
But the way I look at it my blade is running at 4533fps.
3200RPM engine speed  X 17 inch wheel  divided X 12 to get feet = 4533... Right ???
3200 engine rpm / 5 to one ratio = 640 wheel rpm
17" dia wheel X 3.14 / 12 = 4.45 ft per revolution of wheel
640 rpm x 4.45 ft/rev = 2848 ft/min
Assuming that I understand your rig.
You got it...
I forgot to do the X 3.14 ...
Thanks.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 13, 2015, 11:03:42 AM
Did you guys notice me over here in the corner silently nodding my head in solemn agreement as if I knew what you were talking about?

Numbers...  smiley_fused_bomb

I'm very glad there's so many capable members on this forum.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Den-Den on July 13, 2015, 12:58:18 PM
ljohnsaw:
Very nice work on the fabrication, you have spent some time on this.  You are seriously underpowered with the treadmill motor.  It probably could be made to work but your fabrication efforts deserve a bigger, better motor or engine.  Whatever power source you end up with; you need to match the power with band speed.  Two guys have cut big logs with a pit saw, that is less than one horse power.  The blade speed of a pit saw is no where near that of a commercial bandmill.  Lower power needs lower band speed so that the power is not wasted on friction and making fine dust.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: plowboyswr on July 14, 2015, 03:20:48 PM
Did you guys notice me over here in the corner silently nodding my head in solemn agreement as if I knew what you were talking about?

Numbers...  smiley_fused_bomb

I'm very glad there's so many capable members on this forum.

 :D my wife refers to me as a human calculator. 
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 14, 2015, 04:25:58 PM
Plowboy - I surely am envious.  Being good at ciphering would make my life quite a bit easier.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 14, 2015, 09:03:25 PM
I'm waiting on some dual v-belt pulleys - should be in by Friday. 

I redid the linkage on the replacement carb and the 7hp engine runs as it should.  Has a nice low, smooth idle and a solid top end.  I changed the oil once it warmed up - wasn't too bad for sitting so long.  I pulled the electrics off my mill and was surprised.  I forgot how heavy the tread mill motor was!  I think the gas engine is lighter!  I mounted the gas engine, added a throttle cable over to the operator side along with an additional cut off switch.

Now I need to make a pulley on a lever to engage the belt for a positive engagement.  The single grove clutch I have is too small of a shaft diameter anyhow.  And make the blade guard.  And, according to may son, paint it all the same color ::)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 15, 2015, 11:55:11 AM
Painting sounds like a good for anybody else but you.  I hate painting so much that I wouldn't care if it was all runs and fisheyes as long as I didn't have to do it!

After painting a few cars and trucks and tractors and a sawmill I realize I despise everything about it but it's a necessary evil sometimes.

Although when I pull off the masking I enjoy watching it come alive.

What color does your son suggest?  I think any color besides rainbows and "hot" colors would look nice.

Just imagine driving along and seeing a hot pink sawmill.  :D
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on July 15, 2015, 12:40:35 PM
Now why would it all have to be the same color?  Boring.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 15, 2015, 12:56:43 PM
<<snip>>
What color does your son suggest?  I think any color besides rainbows and "hot" colors would look nice.

Just imagine driving along and seeing a hot pink sawmill.  :D

He really doesn't care, as long as its one color.  I am using silver for a couple of reasons.  When it fades in the sun, no one will notice and with our blazing summers, silver does not get so hot that you brand yourself when you bump it.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 15, 2015, 04:45:32 PM
UPS says my pulley is out for delivery.  In the meantime, I added a lube system.  I picked up these neat little flexible hoses off of Amazon.  I think it was a 4 pack of 12 to 16" hoses and were pretty cheap.  You can add and subtract one or more joints as needed.  Since they are rather thin tubes (meant for a pressure system on metal working tools), I used two.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_blade_lube_1.jpg)
As it turns out, they flow REALLY well.  My bottle neck is my two ball valves that only have a small hole in them.  Once I cleared the lube grease out, they work fairly well.  I expect them to get better as the lube system washes out the remnants of the grease.  The upper one to turn on/off and the lower to set the flow rate.  I purposely put it out of the way so I wouldn't be tempted to use it for on/off.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_blade_lube_2.jpg)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, UPS delivered my first pulley that I bought off of eBay - not as described and unusable.  Trying to see if I can return for a full refund.  But I made further progress.  Here is the start of the blade guard:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_guard_1.jpg)

I had some 1" tube frames I cut in half to make the sideways U brackets to fit around the hubs.  The black metal was some of the file system cabinets that housed some chain and gears.  I have one more that I won't bend to span the top between the two ends.  Then I will fill the bottom and front with a removable wood panel to catch the blade should it pop off or break, or to replace the blade.  The sawdust exit hole on the end will have a deflector install to shoot the dust down, probably into a bucket, and to stop a broken blade.  The clearance between the wheel/blade and the guard is about 1-" - just enough room to squeeze my hand in there to install the bolts and cut myself on the sharp blade  ::)  Being really sharp, I never felt it.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 16, 2015, 12:12:02 PM
I always end up looking like a snake got me when I handle blades.  :D

Your mill looks good, buddy!  I hate to say this, but the lube "should" be flowing on the blade before it enters the log.  It may work just fine where it is, I don't know, but all the manufacturers I've seen put it just after the idle side blade guide.  This way the lube is directly on the blade as it enters the cut and not getting mostly slung off on the way around to enter the cut.

I never saw a silver sawmill and I think I like it!
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 16, 2015, 12:19:30 PM
Silver is a nice lookin color. But i think it is one of the worst colors to hold up to the weather.
Around here it's the silver cars/trucks that rust out first.

Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on July 16, 2015, 12:45:34 PM
I'm liking the contrast of the black guards already. 

My biggest complaint of W-M orange is the fading.  Anything with red in it won't stand up to the sun, except maybe red barn paint and Rustoleum primer.  Us navy vets will either love or hate gray.  Forest green is a favorite of mine, but not for a mill, methinks.  I must pass on the hot pink or the rainbow motif. 

What can I say; everyone's an art critic.

======================

Funny thing, I have never been cut while handling blades.  The cat did those cuts.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 16, 2015, 03:29:50 PM

Your mill looks good, buddy!  I hate to say this, but the lube "should" be flowing on the blade before it enters the log.  It may work just fine where it is, I don't know, but all the manufacturers I've seen put it just after the idle side blade guide.  This way the lube is directly on the blade as it enters the cut and not getting mostly slung off on the way around to enter the cut.
Thanks.
 ???
That is the entry side!  Look at the teeth.  The motor is on the "pull" side.  Reading another thread, I can put one of the nozzles on the bottom of the blade if I have build up on that side.

Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 16, 2015, 04:05:11 PM
I'm sorry, I saw it backwards.  You're right and correct and I was wrong.  I have dyslexia.  Or to lighten it up some, I have lysdexia.  ::)

I'm starting to become more hesitant to offer any advice the farther this brain crap progresses.

Good job on your mill, you should be proud
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on July 16, 2015, 04:20:02 PM
What does DNA stand for?

National Association of Dyslexics.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 16, 2015, 06:35:55 PM
I'm sorry, I saw it backwards.  You're right and correct and I was wrong.  I have dyslexia.  Or to lighten it up some, I have lysdexia.  ::)

I'm starting to become more hesitant to offer any advice the farther this brain crap progresses.

Good job on your mill, you should be proud
Thanks - re-reading my reply to you sounded snarkey - Didn't mean it that way, should of put a smiley in. ;D  I think my band is going backwards from most so you possibly made an assumption.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 16, 2015, 08:06:25 PM
A little more progress today:

(http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_guard_2.jpg)

Added the top black piece to the guard.  Down by the engine, there is a blue wheel on a set of blue forks off a bike.  I couldn't wait for my new dual pulley to arrive tomorrow, so I faked it.  I put a single pulley (about 1/2 the diameter needed), shortened one belt (3/8" profile) and fired it up.  Turned on the water and awkwardly engaged the belt tension.  The engine was not running at top speed, nor was the blade (too small of a pulley compounded it).  It cut like crazy! 8)  The engine never bogged down so I kept pushing faster until I stalled the blade due to the belt slipping.  Still, I was able to cut this log in less than a minute compared to 5-6 minutes with the electric.  I was getting worried as the advice above is saying a 13hp would be the minimum.

We'll see how it performs in some real logs (pine, not half-rotted redwood) next week at full throttle and full blade speed.  Fingers crossed...
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on July 16, 2015, 09:13:32 PM
They sell a couple mills with seven horse motors.  I am running a nine horse.  I would like a 13/14 horse If I got a fast enough cut for the fuel.  Heck I would like 30 or 40 horse.  I am cutting fine with a 9 horse though.  I am only getting about 150 board foot before having to do something to the blade to keep it cutting strait.  I don't know if the horse power affects this or if I am buying the cheepest blades on the market.  I am working to get more but still use the mill and feel I am comming out ok just not great.
Good luck
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 16, 2015, 09:28:58 PM
northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company sawmill only has a 7.75 hp briggs engine on it new.
I know someone that has one and it does a fair job.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 17, 2015, 12:17:16 PM
Yes, everything is relative.  I've heard of a guy with a 2hp electric motor on a mill and it cut lumber.  Was it fast?  Probably not, but it cut.  There are others with a 5hp gas engine and it works as well.  Fast?  No.  I know that when I maxed out my mill with a huge black cherry I was wanting more power, but it cut.  Just very slow travel speed to keep the rpms up.  Will I ever see a tree that big again?  Maybe, but probably not.  For what I need, 13hp seems to be just about perfect.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 17, 2015, 12:18:31 PM
What does DNA stand for?

National Association of Dyslexics.
That's funny right there!  I wonder if you and I put our heads together the backwards would cancel out and we'd be able to see and do things like regular folks?  :D
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on July 17, 2015, 01:12:43 PM
My nine horse has cut several 13 inch wide boards and the tree to make a cant this size was 26 inches on one end.  It made good strait cuts.  I have cut lots of 12 inch wide 1 and 3/4 thick.  No problim and I go slow on all my cuts so not even that much differrance.  Mostly I end up with smaller cants but have cut some big ones.  I thought the 26 inch butt log was about 40 inches till I measured it.  It was bigg.  Most of my bigg logs are about 18 inches on the small end and it will cut them just fine all day long.
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 17, 2015, 06:01:39 PM
I will be cutting lots of rafters - 5x9; planks for roof decking and floors - 2x random but shooting for 6 or 8" around 18' long;  Joists 2x12 either 14' or 25' long;  Posts up to 8x12, mostly 8x10.  Ten Beams 8x15x30'.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on July 17, 2015, 06:35:09 PM
What does DNA stand for?

National Association of Dyslexics.
That's funny right there!  I wonder if you and I put our heads together the backwards would cancel out and we'd be able to see and do things like regular folks?  :D

We'll just keep it stupid, simple?

I can't say how challenging it is sometimes with those matched switches on each side of the W-M control box.  One is forward/reverse, and the other is up/down.  Now, which was which again?

I often turn on my turn signal expecting windshield wipers.  I hate it when I do that with a stater behind me.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 18, 2015, 11:28:40 AM
It certainly is a challenge every single day that those without it will never understand.  I get so darn frustrated sometimes I can't hardly stand it.  Sometimes I can laugh at it.  Mostly I grumble.

I had to weld a certain part on my mill 4 times.  Every time I obviously thought it was right just to come back the next day to see it was backwards or upside down or something like that.  It's never the same day to day which is what really gets me because you don't know what to expect.  Thankfully I can read and write halfway decent.  It didn't get me there.  But seeing things in my head, like a carpentry project, forget it!  And ciphering?  Sometimes with simple addition it's ok, but usually not.  Please don't get the idea I'm whining, just nice to share with someone who understands.  :)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on July 18, 2015, 01:54:34 PM
I'm pretty good with three-D imagination and that.  I can be impossible to work with, as I might not be able so see things as others do.  I have learned to be careful, but get reversed nonetheless, more than I'd like.  It never pays for me to get into too much of a hurry.  Don't want to wind up like Wheezy Joe in Intolerable Cruelty.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eT-i-YEAMe4
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on July 18, 2015, 07:30:27 PM
I drove a fork truck at work and can't tell you how many times I hit reverse when coming up to a corner.  I still sometimes pull my blinker on when I want to back up in my car or truck.  I haven't drove a forktruck for 6 years.  Unbelievable.
Cheers
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: plowboyswr on July 18, 2015, 07:56:51 PM
I drove a fork truck at work and can't tell you how many times I hit reverse when coming up to a corner.  I still sometimes pull my blinker on when I want to back up in my car or truck.  I haven't drove a forktruck for 6 years.  Unbelievable.
Cheers
ww

 :D :D can't tell ya how many times I have done just the same thing! We got some new cat lifts in at work and the shuttle is on the right hand armrest along with all the other controls and I am constantly  reaching under the steering wheel to change direction.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 21, 2015, 01:26:00 AM
Worked on the mill all day today (12 hours).  It was a two-step forward, one-step back kind of day. 

I re-engineered the belt tension gismo and was able to continue cutting my test redwood log.  Ran out of gas - had to make a run for fuel.  Filled up the tank only to discover it had a rusted through spot about halfway up. :-[  Pulled the tank off and tossed it.  Had to make a bracket to hold a 2.5 gallon plastic tank up on the frame.  That ate up some time...

Back to the log making 1" boards just for testing.  When I stacked all the boards back on to do some edging, I discovered my first build mistake.  I precisely located my blade guide on the power side to be inline with the log stops.  Only problem is when trying to cut more than a few inches deep, two of the mounting bolts hit wood  ::) Ok, shimmed the boards out.  I was having problems with one of the belts jumping off so I had to re-align the belt tensioner.  Finished that log and put on another.  Note to self - make sure the log stops are at least up to the middle of the log, otherwise knots and such will catch the blade guides.  Re-aligned the log. Still not quite tight enough belt tension, I was cutting at full throttle and stalled the blade which smoked one of the belts  :(

Spent the rest of the day rebuilding the blade guide to slide back further, about an inch or so more, and gave the belt tensioner more adjustment.  Will be picking up new v-belt in the morning to replace the Fener link-belts.  They just can't handle the HP.

Cuts well, just belt slipping - never was able to bog the motor down.  Head raising mechanism is working great.  Log dogs are a little bit of trouble to adjust.  Might get better with use/practice.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 21, 2015, 03:09:49 AM
Sounds like one of my first days.
My log dogs was hitting my battery box when I put them up all the way.
You learn to do a lot of welding and cutting things off to reweld.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on July 21, 2015, 08:44:10 AM
ljohn (not little)
If you saw my build tread at all, you will see yours is going quite well.  Just keep pegging away and one day it will be eureka, success.

I had to cut mine apart so many times that I now have to bang my angle grinder on the ground to get it to work.
Good luck
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on July 21, 2015, 10:39:12 AM
I'd like to meet the man that built a mill from scratch and didn't have to change something.  I'd shake his hand and proclaim I just met the most mythical creature on the planet.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: nz1h on July 21, 2015, 10:47:14 AM
gww
 try replacing the carbon brushes on your grinder, it sounds as if your brushes are getting short or sticking.

alain
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Magicman on July 21, 2015, 10:48:09 AM
WM and I am sure all manufacturers constantly are looking for improvements and making changes.  There are many revisions.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on July 21, 2015, 11:23:42 AM
I'd like to meet the man that built a mill from scratch and didn't have to change something.  I'd shake his hand and proclaim I just met the most mythical creature on the planet.

I came close...
The only thing I change was my log dogs and I did that because I just did not like them.
I alsp change one sprocket on the carrage lift to get more speed.
Other than that no changes.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 22, 2015, 01:13:48 AM
No luck on getting belts today.  Not a common size (3L720).  Best was 660 but I don't have a way to make up the difference (can't lower the engine any).  I ordered some online but that will take a week.  So, I had some spare belt links and replace the really bad/melted ones.  With the belt really tight now, I am able to bog the engine if I go too fast.  The redwood log is dry with some rot and lots of knots - I can cut a 8" x 10' board in less than 30 seconds - I think this is doable!

I did a test of depth cuts on the end just to get some measurements.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_thickness_test.jpg)

I dropped the blade first one revolution on the crank, then 2, 3, 4, 5 and it was supposed to be 6 but I lost track...
I cut a full board at 1 crank and that gave a 1/8" slice.  I measured it and it was +/- 1/32", probably blade flutter.  I've been doing 5 cranks which gives me 1-1/16" (plus a hair).  Ten cranks does 2-3/16".

When making 1" boards that you want to plane one side, what thickness should you cut green?  If I do 6 cranks, it should give me a 1-5/16".  But I suppose I should put up a measuring scale and do it the right way  ;)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on July 22, 2015, 11:04:41 AM
It takes me probly 2 to 3 minutes to cut the same size board.  I would say 30 seconds is quite good if the board is good.
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 25, 2015, 04:01:47 PM
Made the trip up the hill to setup my mill.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_First_Log_1.jpg)
And first cut:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_First_Log_2.jpg) 
Had some 2 year downed trees that I want to make into form boards for my footings.  With the one bed, I can cut 10' 10".  I need about 200' of 2x12s and some 2x8 for the stepped foundation.  I started off with the closest logs and came up with this pile. 

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_First_Log_4.jpg)
Wow, this is addicting and fun!  Getting the logs, I have to thread the needle with my SkyTrak.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Retrieving_logs.jpg)
The bruised trees will be used for other timbers in my cabin.  That tree on the left with the sweep and lean - what can that wood be best be used.  I know it has lots of stress but would it be better to keep it big and make posts/beams or thin so you can make it conform (bend) to where you want it?
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on July 25, 2015, 04:50:27 PM
L (not little)john
I can't help with your question but I want your sky tracker.

It looks like you are doing well and you are correct, it is addicting. 

I really enjoyed your pictures.
Cheers
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: beenthere on July 25, 2015, 05:03:48 PM
Ljohn
Jump-cut that pistol butt off that leaning tree (last pic) and don't think you will have much trouble with the lumber above that point. At least not much, if any.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 25, 2015, 07:57:52 PM
L (not little)john
I can't help with your question but I want your sky tracker.

It looks like you are doing well and you are correct, it is addicting. 

I really enjoyed your pictures.
Cheers
gww

I got the SkyTrak for a decent price (I think) but it is OLD - 1984-86 vintage with lots of hours (I looked but forgot already).  The biggest problem with it is the pavement tires it has on it - no tread.  When it rains (or snows), the super fine dirt turns to grease - the slightest hill and this thing just slides down hill.  I'm building the cabin myself (with help from my 11 yo son) so I needed some muscle.  My son is already helping operate it.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Solar_Pole_top_with_230_w.jpg)
That is a 4.5" water drill rod, 18' tall and the solar panel swivels on the top because I haven't bolted it yet.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Solar_Pole_bottom.jpg)
I welded a split piece of 6" well casing to the rod with some angle iron brackets to bolt it on.  Works great, though not exactly plumb...
When I was setting this pole up for my solar (the trees will be going soon), I was giving hand signals while he maneuvered the pole (he was not able to see it due to the blocks).  He did great!  But was a little jittery from the adrenalin rush afterwards  :D
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on July 25, 2015, 08:09:28 PM
My dads kabota is 4wheel drive but has turf tires on the back.  Makes a differrence.  I am in my 50s and would be shakeing with adrenalin.  You look busy.
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 15, 2015, 07:08:27 PM
I had bad times with my twin belt setup (they liked to tango and shred themselves).  I pulled off the 14" twin pulley but couldn't find a machine shop to turn it into a single wide pulley.  So I put it on my rotary table and used my mill to take out the center web.  It's back on the mill with a single heavy duty belt ready to get to work.

Back a few posts (#4 & #23) you can see my homemade blade guides.  They work great - until I turn on the blade lube.  That, apparently, brought some sawdust in with the water behind the bearing seals - and toasted the bearing, twice.  So I just received my Cook's Blade guides (1.25") that I ordered on Thursday.

I'm going to fabricate my own 1/2" grease-able bolts.  The ones they show on their website have the Zerk fitting in the threaded end of the bolt.  I'm a little concerned that will weaken the bolt in that thin section so I am planning on doing the hole from the head end of the bolt.

These guides are going to be going really fast - what type of grease do you guys use?  I didn't see a recommendation on Cook's site.  I could use high speed wheel hub grease (the red stuff) or I could use "boat trailer" grease that is waterproof.  I'm thinking the waterproof might be a better choice.

Comments, please!
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Magicman on August 15, 2015, 09:03:32 PM
I am surprised that the bearings are not sealed.  If (soapy) water can get into the bearings, then the grease can get out so why use "waterproof" grease.  I would ask and use what Cooks recommends.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 16, 2015, 12:20:15 AM
I think the speed and heat buildup was just too high on my bearing that I used.  I really have no idea what they were rated for - I went for the size.  If they were about 2" and my wheels are 21" spinning at ~700rpm, that would put them at about 7,000rpm.  A typical bearing is only rated for about half that, maybe.  First, it spun out some grease and then the seals (plastic?) seemed to deform, maybe melted. 

The Cook's bearings are not sealed (they have a metal cover) and are recessed into the roller.  They come with a "T" shaped bushing for both sides.  The Zerk-fitted bolt has a groove and grease exit hole that lines up where the two bearing meet in the middle of the "wheel".  I'll question Cook's but I think the stiffer, more heat resistant wheel bearing grease will do much better.  Having it ooze around the bushings should do for a good dust seal, preventing it from getting near the rollers.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on August 16, 2015, 10:14:42 AM
For what it's worth, I put Cook's guide rollers on my mill.  There's no shield or seal or anything.  I pump 3 strokes every time before I start up and it forces the remainder of sawdust packed grease out of the front.  I wipe it away and mill.  That new grease kind slings off but some stays behind to provide a barrier against sawdust infiltration.  It almost acts like a renewable "grease shield".  I use very little for lube (kerosene and bar oil mix) that is wick applied so I wouldn't know how my setup works with lots of water or such.

I would like to someday remember to grease them after milling for the day but I've yet to remember to do this.

I imagine it wouldn't be too hard to make a shield of sorts from some plastic from a barrel or bucket or PVC pipe.  PVC can be heated and molded to any shape you want and when it cools it's just as strong as when it was pipe.  Neat stuff.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on August 16, 2015, 10:58:24 AM
I think I read that cooks wants them greased everytime the mill stops caused the heat draws the grease in like a wick.  You guys would cringe at my set up.  No grease.  Just a shot of wd40 on all moving parts daily.  No cover for the mill.  It sits out in all weather.  The wheels are plastic pullys and have gaps that I can see the water and sawdust in it.  I squirt wd and go.  If I let it sit for months with out use I believe I would have issues.  The time I had the most issues with guide bearings was when my mill was running too fast.  That might be the real thing you need to work on.  The above doesn't mean that my bearings won't freeze immediatly when I go back out side from typing this.
Cheers
gww.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 16, 2015, 01:56:03 PM
Ox,
I suppose it depends on which Cook's guides you bought, but this is the version I just got.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Cooks_Guides.jpg)
I got the 1.25" blade size guide.  Front to back on the bushings is 1.5".  If you take the bushing out, you see the pair of ball bearings held in place with snap rings.  Cook's (I assume) ground a notch in the inner raceway on one bearing to provide a way for the grease to get inside the bearing.  I made the Zerk bolt with the hole being in the shank part of the bolt rather than the threaded, thinner section.  This also let me put the Zerk out front so it is easier to get to and I'm more likely to grease it every time.  There were no bearing numbers visible (I didn't want to remove them) and I'd be interested in the ratings on them.  Spinning them by hand, you can feel a little roughness (compared to what I have on my shop equipment), so I hope they hold up at the speeds they will be turning.

As you can see, I have car tires for my mill so I doubt that I will be using Diesel fuel - I think it would destroy the tires over time.  I'll stick to Pinesol and/or Cascade dishwasher soap when I need it.

Besides replacing blades when they start to dive (getting dull), what really is "dull"?  I cut a number of logs (6 or 7?) with one blade.  It seems to have slowed down cutting but the blade still scrapes a thin shaving off my finger nail - so is that still sharp?
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Magicman on August 16, 2015, 02:39:38 PM
Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding that Cooks uses solid bandwheels (no belts) and uses Diesel for blade lube. 

With those open bearings, I would imagine that soapy water would enter and wash the grease from those bearing.  In that case, a "waterproof" grease would be in order.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on August 16, 2015, 03:17:48 PM
My Cooks wheels came with no grease fittings and no bolts....

 

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/roller-guide-2.jpg)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 16, 2015, 05:03:29 PM
My Cooks wheels came with no grease fittings and no bolts....

 

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/roller-guide-2.jpg)

Right, the bolts are an additional $12.95 each.  Since I needed shorter bolts than what they offer, I had the bolts on hand (fine thread) and I have a lathe, I just made my own.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on August 17, 2015, 09:29:55 AM
Yes, those are the guides I have also.  I used zerk bolts from a WM LT70 the neighbor has.  I don't have alot of time on them yet but they are about the same as the other ones I've seen.  I need to get in the habit of greasing after milling instead of before for the wicking issue mentioned.  I wanted to say that in my previous post but couldn't find the words without typing a whole bunch of sentences. 

There are guys who have replaced the greasable bearings with sealed high speeds with no problems and many hours of run time.  I think Pineywoods did this?  When they wear out they are easily replaceable.  Of course they may last so long that when the bearings wear out it's time for new guide rollers anyway.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 24, 2015, 01:25:34 AM
I cut up a couple more logs last Wednesday with my new single, thicker belt and all went well.  The 7hp motor was bogging down (no belt slippage) and made me want to upgrade the engine.  I found an old Craftsman 18hp twin cylinder lawn tractor engine with a electric clutch on CL.  Waiting for an ignition switch and starter solenoid to come in from Amazon tomorrow.  Also need to pick up a small battery to run the starter.  It might be a bit tricky to fit the new engine in the frame.  However, it should make some serious sawdust now!
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on August 24, 2015, 05:10:01 AM
Recoil starters can be bought for your engine.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on August 24, 2015, 12:07:11 PM
I cut up a couple more logs last Wednesday with my new single, thicker belt and all went well.  The 7hp motor was bogging down (no belt slippage) and made me want to upgrade the engine.  I found an old Craftsman 18hp twin cylinder lawn tractor engine with a electric clutch on CL.  Waiting for an ignition switch and starter solenoid to come in from Amazon tomorrow.  Also need to pick up a small battery to run the starter.  It might be a bit tricky to fit the new engine in the frame.  However, it should make some serious sawdust now!

I know there are a few lawn tractors out there with horizontal shaft engines, but nearly all of them have vertical shafts.  I have only dealt with one that was a horizontal shaft, and we totaled it when the electric clutch failed, as the replacement cost for that alone tipped the scales on whether it was worth the repair, as it had other issues as well.  Got any more pictures?
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on August 24, 2015, 08:22:00 PM
If your lookin for horizontal shaft engines then you meed to look for garden tractors. Not lawn tractors...
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on August 24, 2015, 10:22:59 PM
I suppose that thing could have been called a "garden tractor," but it was really a high end rider mower.  I don't think I will ever be in the market for any air cooled tractors.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 24, 2015, 10:57:01 PM
I spent the morning re-aligning my main pulley behind the drive wheel.  I didn't pay attention to the position when I pulled it off to modify the V-groove.  It is held on with three bolts and when I put it back on it was not running true - about 60/1000" out of round.  Now I'm within 15/1000.  The tire was out of wack as well so I repositioned it and its pretty close now.

This motor has two pulleys, one on each end.  One is on the magneto flywheel and is fixed.  That one ran the transmission.  The other side has the electric clutch and it ran whatever attachment was on it (typically the mower deck).  I got the starter switch and solenoid in the mail by 1:00.  I straightened up the wiring harness (was cut out in a few places) and hooked everything up.  I powered it up with my battery charger just to check the start switch/starter and that worked.  Will be picking up a battery tomorrow and continue working on it Wednesday.  I didn't have any large lugs to make my battery cables - so I used some 1/4" copper tubing and made my own - works really well and a whole lot cheaper than the hardware store!  Pictures will be on Wednesday - before and after the engine swap.  The new engine is an 18" cube.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on August 25, 2015, 07:23:12 AM
Did you also get the rectifier to keep the battery charged up ???
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 25, 2015, 11:14:33 AM
Did you also get the rectifier to keep the battery charged up ???
Yep!  I left the headlights somewhere so I guess I won't be cutting after dark :D  I double checked the clutch and it seems to be working.  Up to the property today to work on the foundation forms.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 28, 2015, 02:02:44 AM
OK, I got the old 7hp off yesterday:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_old_7hp.jpg)
 and mounted up the new 18hp twin with an electric clutch 8):

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_new_18hp_1.jpg)
The exhaust had to be re-routed a little bit.  I cut it at a slight angle, rotated it 180 (rolled) and brazed it back on.  Not the best angle to see it:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_new_18hp_2.jpg)
On the other side, is a fixed pulley:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_new_18hp_4.jpg)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_new_18hp_3.jpg)

Today, I extended the wiring harness, mounted the key start, clutch switch, starter solenoid and battery.  Fired it up and it runs pretty well and reasonably quiet!  Engaging the clutch while idling, it barely flinched.  Runs nice and smooth.  When I flip off the clutch, the blade stops in a reasonable time, not like before when the loose v-belt continued to get pulled along with the engine.

Just for fun, I killed the engine with the clutch engaged.  The blade kept the engine turning over a little bit and I think it took longer to stop.  Not thinking much about it, I started it up and got a REALLY loud backfire :o presumably from the fuel that was pumped through the "stopped" engine.  Made my ears ring, won't be doing that again! :D

Up the hill tomorrow to work on the cabin and cut a few more logs for form boards.  Can't wait to see how more power works out for me.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on August 28, 2015, 10:09:16 AM
I'll bet a dollar you're going to like that upgrade!
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on August 28, 2015, 11:17:12 AM
I am jealous.  I doubt 18 horse would help me much over my nine horse unless I could find a way to stop belt slippage.  I can't really bog my nine down as I am set up now.  I could use an electric start though.  Bet that is better then pulling the 7 horse starter rope.  I don't know but would think the extra weight of the 18 horse will help stablize everything also.  Love your pictures and can't wait for your next update with your thoughts of the upgrade in action.  When my motor blows I may want to emulate you.  Hi ox
Cheers
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on August 28, 2015, 12:10:18 PM
I have a B&S vertical shaft rider mower with that identical sheet metal cover.  It is in a totally worn out used mower, but I really love that quiet smooth running engine.  I'm getting ready to swap it into another one with a smoking one-lunger.  I don't think there is any easy way to make a vertical shaft into a horizontal shaft, or I would.  The oiling scheme would probably prevent it.

I hope this works out well for you and runs forever (including that clutch).
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on August 28, 2015, 07:19:28 PM
I collect old gas engines. Back in the 50-60s almost every company that made engines had conversions to tur a vert into a hoz engine. Here is to of my collection of hundreds. Both was a Hoz engine turned into a vert engine.

 

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/clinton2.jpg)

 

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/reo-Ver.jpg)

Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on August 28, 2015, 11:18:39 PM
I would love to see your shops and all your stuff in general, Kbeitz.  So much cool stuff.  And you seem to have a pretty good handle on most of it too. 
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on August 29, 2015, 04:43:52 AM
I would love to see your shops and all your stuff in general, Kbeitz.  So much cool stuff.  And you seem to have a pretty good handle on most of it too.

Here is a storage spot that I dump some pictures.
I dont want to hog up space here with to many pictures.

http://user.pa.net/~kbeitz/
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 29, 2015, 12:27:57 PM
I am jealous.  I doubt 18 horse would help me much over my nine horse unless I could find a way to stop belt slippage.  I can't really bog my nine down as I am set up now.  I could use an electric start though.  Bet that is better then pulling the 7 horse starter rope.  I don't know but would think the extra weight of the 18 horse will help stablize everything also.  Love your pictures and can't wait for your next update with your thoughts of the upgrade in action.  When my motor blows I may want to emulate you.  Hi ox
Cheers
gww

The 7hp (must be a Honda with a Subaru badge) starts with one easy pull.  Really nice engine.  Maybe I'll make a mini-bike with it...

The 18hp will be needing a carb rebuild.  Runs good with a little hunting at the top end.  I need to tighten my drive belt - a little slippage - but cuts a whole lot better 8)  It wouldn't turn over after cutting for a bit and letting it sit.  I think some fuel was draining through the carb and there was way too much in a cylinder - hard to turn from too much compression.  Then I had to air it out so it would start again.  I do have a fuel cutoff valve I installed and run the carb out of fuel when done for the day.  Clutch works great, engine is reasonably quiet - electric start is soooo nice!

I drug a 16- foot log up on to the mill (~11" small end).

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_16footer.jpg)

Been down 2 years and still very wet inside.  Nice lumber (for form boards) with a little dry rot on one side.  Got three 2x8 full length and one 10'.  A little sweep at the butt and very hard there.  Made a wheelbarrow load of foundation stakes from the side wood.  Not sure what happened to the lumber pics...

Keibtz,
Are all those pictures of stuff you have? :o  Nice collection.  Do you buy to refurbish and sell to support your habit or are you building a museum? :D
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on August 29, 2015, 03:22:44 PM
L
Anytime I see a dancing smily, I figure things went well.   Thanks for the indepth update and also the pictures.  My nine very seldom starts on the first pull and always starts by the third pull.  Not really hard but.   Electric start agrrrrrr!  Dad has a log splitter that you can pull and pull and pull on and it won't start if you leave the gas on.  Shut the petcock when you kill the engine and it will start first time.  Been that way since brand new.

Sounds great.
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on August 29, 2015, 03:46:55 PM
Can't trust float valves on gravity feeds.

Worse than compression lock is fuel getting past the rings and thinning the oil.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on August 29, 2015, 03:51:27 PM
Can't trust float valves on gravity feeds.

Worse than compression lock is fuel getting past the rings and thinning the oil.

Yep, don't want it thinning the oil.  Never had problems before with float valves.  Either there is a speck of dirt or the seat is hard/worn.  I expect the latter - this engine has seen a bit of use and probably never any work done on the carb.  Forgot to write down the engine numbers.  Will do that next time I'm up the hill and will likely pull the carb to bring it home to redo.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on August 29, 2015, 03:54:58 PM
I find I need two things when dealing with this issue: a manual shutoff valve, and the memory to use it.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: deadfall on August 29, 2015, 04:06:30 PM
BTW, ljohn, I can't tell you how much I love your part of the world, ever since I fished in Folsom Res. or swam in the Yuba River when I was ten years old.  I do hope you get sufficient precip going there soon.  I love every inch of the High Sierra.  It is one of the places in this world I think of as my church. 
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on October 01, 2015, 10:53:20 AM
Update:

Yesterday (Wednesday), I needed 10 feet of 2x8 to finish my form boards.  I cut this tree down a week or two ago and never sawed the butt log until today.  Note how high I left the stump.  Bad angle on the picture but there was a bit of sweep:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Nail_4_20150930.jpg)

So I cut from the small end and about 3 inches from the end of the cut I stall out the blade.  I lifted the slab off and found this:  :(

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Nail_1_20150930.jpg)

Looks like either two nails (at angles) or a fence stable, but it is pretty thick diameter.

If you go back to the first pic, you can see a little stain that I missed.  Here is the end I then trimmed off looking at both sides you can see stain:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Nail_3_20150930.jpg)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Nail_2_20150930.jpg)

Swapped blades and cut out some really nice 2x8s.

To finish off the day, I loaded up this big cedar butt log, about 24":

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Cedar_3_20150930.jpg)

I started slicing off some 1x for my brother's sauna until I got to some good width and cut a 3" slab for my niece.  Only problem was I got about 3/4 of the way through and the nasty screech of metal on metal - DanG - and the blade dove.  I didn't want to waste the slab so I cut back from the other end with my chainsaw and wedge-split it off.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Cedar_4_20150930.jpg)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Cedar_5_20150930.jpg)

I will need to cut one more slab, finish one edge on each and butt them up so they will have enough width for a dining table.


 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Cedar_6_nail_20150930.jpg)

The sliver you see is about the size of a toothpick - very thin - I managed to slice the nail right though its pith! >:(  On the back side of the slab:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Cedar_7_nail_20150930.jpg)

Where the diagonal water line meets the metal is the head of a second nail that I just grazed.  Can't quite count the rings but looks like about 30-40 years ago these two nails were stuck in here  :(  My metal detector (not the saw blade) could just barely pick up these thin nails down 3" into the slab.

Two wasted blades...  At least I had a LOT of hours on the first one.  I was contemplating putting a new blade on, too!

Now I just need to cut a backstop and my apprenticeship will be complete ;)

Deadfall:

BTW, it started raining on me yesterday while I was working in the afternoon.  I just kept on working in the rain - felt good.  Today is thunderstorms both on the hill and down here by Folsom Lake.  Nice to finally hear some rain!
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Ox on October 01, 2015, 11:04:05 AM
Darn the bad luck!  But you kept the creed of never give up.  Well done!
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on March 13, 2016, 01:13:38 PM
Just a fun picture to compare with the "dry" picture in replies #82 and #88:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Cabin_20160209_03.JPG)

This was taken on February 9, 2016
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: brewdog on April 11, 2016, 07:44:49 PM
New to this site hope im not doing something wrong,Would like impho on guides.Have seen Leggmans and cooks ,would like size and what bearing is used /see some must be sealed some grease fitting.will they last made from mild steal.Thanks.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on April 11, 2016, 08:29:17 PM
I built my mill... I did not make my guides. It's just not worth the time it would take to make good guides.
This is what i went with.

 

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Roller_Guide.jpg)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on April 11, 2016, 08:29:50 PM
brewdog
You might go to leggmans profile and click on his post and it might take you to his build thread.  I believe I ask and he answered my question which is the same as yours somewhere in the middle of his build thread.  It is there somewhere after the picture of his millshowing his guides.  I don't remember off hand what the bearing size is but believe the roller was made from 1 and 1/2 inch round stock.  I don't know what lasting a long time is with soft steel.  Magic man on this site probly cuts as many boards as I have in two days.  I can only say they are still working really well for me.  I believe the best answer is in replie #8 of this thread.
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,83025.0.html
Good luck
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: brewdog on April 13, 2016, 09:12:35 PM
Thanks for the impho..
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Jay Sybrandy on December 29, 2016, 02:59:17 PM
Hi could you show your jacks in a bit more detail did you buy them or make them because I'm in the middle of making mine now and yours looks simple

Thanks
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on December 29, 2016, 10:35:10 PM
Hi could you show your jacks in a bit more detail did you buy them or make them because I'm in the middle of making mine now and yours looks simple

Thanks
I got 12 of these for free from a friend - I just had to remove them.  They were on some weird scrap Army scaffolding.  The mount plates are welded on mid-body - would have rather had them at the top.  They are 2,000lb rating (very low gearing).  They are basically trailer jacks with a pad foot instead of a wheel.  I had to mount them inboard so they wouldn't interfere with my head.

If you look on the right side of the cross member, you can see my futile attempt to make a jack with some all-thread and square tube.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/150107_005.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1420700042)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on July 18, 2017, 01:21:42 AM
Time for some updates.  I started this tread a little over 2 years ago but the actual build is closer to 3 years now.  The 18hp B&S engine is running good (now that I did a carb rebuild/clean out last week). 

The single 5L720 belt was working pretty good with the funky shim belt tightening setup but that was not easily adjustable.  I took an idler pulley from a timing belt and made a lever arm with a spring from a trampoline and a turnbuckle.  That is working pretty good now.  I'd like a 6L belt but not sure if such a thing exists - don't see them on Amazon or eBay.

I did have a few mishaps both over the winter and when hauling.  The winter caused all 4 chains to break (the master links' pins broke).  When I took it home to rebuild the carb, I hit a pothole and that broke the final chain on the lift mechinisam allowing the head to free-fall to the trailer deck.  That messed up the guide wheel bracket (and alignment) which cause cutting issues until I identified it.

Twice I backed up in a cut and popped a blade off at full speed and crimped it :(  Hoping not to do that again.  I cut around 700 bd-ft of form boards with the old setup (7hp) and about 3,000 bd-ft on the new setup.  I only have another 30,000 bd-ft to go :-\

Pictures of some of the improvements to follow if I make it up the hill tomorrow or later this week.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2017, 05:00:58 PM
Oh well, forgot about getting some pictures but did make some improvements:

I added a log scale.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171103_c.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1509742183)

I used super magnets to hold it and allow adjustments.  I push the head on this bar so it was sometimes moving.  So I added a cam clamp.

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171103_d.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1509742203)

When I made my mill, I made these (though both had a longer section of 2" x " tube).

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_16footer.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1440865453)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171213_a.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513201217)

But they are a bit difficult to use.  So when I found this thread, http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,41852.msg605141.html#msg605141 (http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,41852.msg605141.html#msg605141), I knew what I wanted to do!  So here is the replacement:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171213_b.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513201621)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171213_c.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513201640)

There is about 1" of throw.  If I decide I need more, I can lower the cam closer to the spike pivot.  The bolt are 5/16" Grade 8.  Note the bright orange so it is easier to aim the blade... ;)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: gww on December 13, 2017, 05:56:41 PM
As of yet, I have never popped a blade off when backing up in a cut.  I have backed up a few times.

I can't believe that all the chain broke.  I was very surprized by this report.

30,000 board foot to go.  You should be in good shape to build when you get that done.
Thanks for the update.
gww
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2017, 06:49:50 PM
Back on reply #90, there is a picture (from March 2016) of my mill.  Here it was in February of 2017:

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20170211_i_Sawmill.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1486944764)

And again the end of March 2017 after about 18" melted.  Notice the head angle...

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20170428_d.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1493440104)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on December 19, 2017, 11:43:12 PM
Went up today to try and get some milling done before the snow dumps again tonight.  The last snow was from Thanksgiving weekend - just a couple inches.  The forecast was for rain.  Here is what was left today - ground pretty well frozen but was able to use the SkyTrak

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171219_a.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513744549)

I put this big guy on to test the log clamp

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171219_b.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513744502)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171219_c.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513744553)

 (http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171219_d.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513744594)

Plenty of travel (1") and tons of pressure!  The only issue I had is a 2x2 tube is not exactly 2x2.  My tubes are ever so slightly rectangular.  Of my 3 log bunks that will accept the clamps, only one would fit correctly.  The other two would only take the clamp 90 off to the side.  I have a little grinding to do on the posts.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on February 01, 2018, 05:18:40 PM
I've been pondering what to use to jack up logs to center the pith.  I have a few scissor jacks that could fit but it might be difficult to crank them as the jack has to rise between the bars on my log bunks.  The crank mechanism would be blocked by the bunk end posts.  I was out today hitting thrift stores and such and found this at a ReStore (Habitat for Humanity).  Maybe Kbeitz knows what it from.  I'm thinking an early 1900's car or truck?

 (http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20180201_jack_a.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517522473)

 (http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20180201_jack_b.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517522464)

BTW, the posting by clicking to insert link is working again (for me)!  :)

The "lug wrench" has a screw driver like end on it (to pop a hub cap?) and a hex nut hole in the other end lug nuts/bolts.  It doesn't fit in the jack correctly so I'm assuming there was a different handle for it.  I had to give it a shot of Blue Creeper to get the ratchet pawl to work properly and lubed the threads as well.  I like the flip top extension - might come in handy when I try it out on my mill (whenever the snow melts...) :-\  I'll probably make a slight U shaped bracket to fit on top to cradle a log so it won't want to roll off.

Not bad for $5.00! 8)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on February 01, 2018, 05:31:20 PM
I have a jack collection with a few like that but I have no idea
what car it came from. E-bay is saying Model A A2
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: waynorthmountie on February 10, 2018, 03:23:29 AM
Can you provide more info and photos of your lift system. Seems pretty unique, how has it been working and how fast can you lift the head up and down.

Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on February 10, 2018, 11:18:50 AM
Here is a couple pictures when I first made it.  Things are a bit rusty now!  It is made from those big rolling file cabinets.  I added more stages of gear reduction to make it really easy to lift.  About 10 turns to lift an inch.  The center shaft turns the two outside shafts which haul the head up on four chains.  It used to free fall so going down was easy.  Now I have to give the handle a big spin and it will go down a couple inches.
 
(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Lift_gearing_1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1436587345)
 
(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_Lift_gearing_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1436587345)
 
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on March 21, 2018, 10:56:53 AM
@Kbeitz (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=29553) ,
I'm going to make the jump to power!  I will add a motor to my head lift.  It is geared way down - about 10 rev/inch.  I bought a pair of Jazzy motors and with their low speed and my low gearing, I'm thinking just a on/off/jog/reverse setup like you did on your router attachment.  The other motor I was planning on adding drive power and I found this controller
Waterproof 12V 24V 48V 20A DC Motor Adjustable Speed Controller Regulator Switch
and was wondering what you think.  I like the waterproof!  Hard to say without seeing the guts.

I found where you recommended this one Q1 Speed Motor Pwm 60a Red+black Hho Rc Control 48v 24v 12v 15khz 10-50v 3000w
and it looks like it is pretty ruggedly built (lots of power transistors).  

Then there are these out there
DC 10-55V 12V 24V 36V 60A PWM DC Motor Speed Controller CW CCW Reversible Switch
with a reverse switch already set up and a digital display of the speed (0-100%).

I am adept at doing electrical/electronics so no issue with putting in a reverse switch on the motor leads and limit switches.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Kbeitz on March 21, 2018, 02:02:00 PM
Great... and good luck... My choice would be the high amp one. It will last much longer...
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on September 04, 2018, 10:23:00 AM
Made this change back in April or so.  Took the tri-handle off and installed a wheel chair motor (24v) that runs off the engine battery (12v).  

(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20180904_a.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1536070474)
 
Runs a little slow when you have to go far (20-30") but good for fine adjustments.  It was acting strange (would go real slow) so I installed some test points for my VOM.  

(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20180904_b.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1536070499)
 
Turns out the battery wasn't fully charged.  I used a battery charger and now it seems to be doing much better.  Might have to resort to an "external" alternator that has more output then the little magneto one on the engine.

The switches on the right are for drive motor(s) but until I get more charging output, that is on hold.

I built my mill using Toyota Tercel rear wheel hubs.  The pulley I had required me to pull the drive hub apart so I could bolt it up on the back side of the hub flange.  In doing so, I messed up the bearings.  They have been giving me problems the last month or so.  When I took off the blade to change it, I could see they were way gone now - about a half inch of wobble!  The inner bearing races were heavily pitted and the seal looked shot.  Probably a lot to have a machine shop repair.

Over Labor Day weekend, Pic-n-pull had half-off so I found a "new" hub for $10 and decided NOT to do the same thing.  Using the old hub, I located the pulley on the rim and drilled though to bolt directly to the rim of the tire.  Then I cut out the center of the pulley and mounted it like this:

(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20180901_hub.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1536070379)
 
I was going to take it up the hill today to test it out but a small forest fire has closed my area.  Hopefully they will get it under control/out today if it didn't spread too far last night.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Magicman on September 04, 2018, 03:32:43 PM
 
(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/Photo1201.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1444152533)
 
You may consider adding one of these. 

(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/Photo1202.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1444152541)
 
Since it draws virtually nothing mine is wired direct.  12.6v before I cranked up but I had used the hydraulics a bit.

(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_0182.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1456255861)
 
14.6v with the engine running.  I always know what my battery and alternator are doing.  :)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on September 04, 2018, 04:00:19 PM
Nice.  I'll have to add that to my Amazon list for the next shipment.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on September 17, 2019, 09:21:45 PM
I guess I add a little once a year to this thread.  So, once again, the drive bearing went out.  I got TWO replacement spindles this time from Pic-n-Pull so I have one "on the shelf" ready to go.  That happened about back a couple weeks.

I was having trouble with my "sideways" clamp.  The point wasn't quite long enough so I welded on a little tab.  So here is my sideways clamp for when I get down to something less than 7" that needs a clamp:

(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Side_Clamp.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1568767500)
 The cam is setup reversed.  This is the locked position, with the handle pointing to the left is released.

I also "improved" one of my scales:

(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Improved_Scale.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1568767498)
 
I did two things.  I punched a little dot half way between each scale mark (dark blue).  Then I also punched which scale under every mark and full mark (the faint, uncolored numbers).  That way I can make sure I'm on the right scale.  At the bottom you can see a little carriage bolt head.  That is on a toggle clamp that holds the scale from sliding around.  Say I want to cut a 6x something, I center the blade on the pith, release the toggle and slide the scale up or down until a dot on the 6-scale is under the height marker (a red wire not shown).  I lock the toggle and then raise the head to the full 6-scale (numbered) mark and make my cut.  Drop down to the next lower 6-scale full mark and cut again.  Now I don't have to mess with the tape measure!
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on October 12, 2019, 08:49:15 PM
Posted this elsewhere but wanted to keep my sawmill thread up to date.

To center the pith, I would lay my 4' level across the rails and measure up with an aluminum rule (like a yardstick).  So I came up with a single tool to do the job and not so fragile as my level.

I just made this up from a 8' piece of aluminum 1/8" x 1" stock I had laying around.  I cut it into two 4' sections.  I had the last 2 feet of a 12' stick on measure (for radial arm saw fence ).  I stuck it starting a few inches above my log bunks.  It doesn't matter what the numbers are, they are just a reference to the pith at each end of the log.  The wing nut allows for sliding the vertical to match where the log is on the bunks and it can be slid off to store as a single 4' long stick.


(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20191011_a.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570894470)
 
(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20191011_b.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570894470)
 
(http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20191011_c.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570894476)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on May 29, 2020, 02:34:55 AM
Posted this as part of my cabin update but wanted to keep this thread up to date.

I've been wanting to add power drive to my mill, especially for pulling the head back.  I installed another wheelchair motor when I had the head at home over the winter.  So back up to the mill bed, I needed to install some cable and try out my new power drive.  A little adjustment and it works great.  Powerful enough to drag me!

I had already installed the two switches on the right - run/stop and a forward/reverse - when I built this box for the raise/lower motor.  I purchased the controller off of eBay.  I didn't use their rocker switch but mounted the rheostat for the speed control (also is the power switch for the unit).  The 3-digit led display is for the % of power supplied.  I still need to mount it somehow.  There are no ears to mount it, might just use some double stick foam tape.  The volt meter below I just got last year and it has failed already (https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/sad.gif)

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20200528d.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1590716230)
 
The vinyl coated cable comes from the back end of the mill, through the UHMW bushing mounted in a eye-bolt, goes around the black pulley and does a figure 8 around the silver drive pulley, back around the black pulley and through an unseen UHMW bushing to the front end of the mill where a turnbuckle is used to tension it all up.

 
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20200528c.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1590716227)

I'm only running 12v so "full speed" is not too fast - like a quick walk.  Works great for returning the head.  Can't wait to get some logs to try it out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20200528b.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1590716223)
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on June 23, 2020, 12:32:41 AM
Update 6/18/2020:

The power drive was working great - for about an hour and is dead in the water.  I'll be heading back up this week and will do a little diagnostic work to see what's going on with it.  Might have to buy a new one :(
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Crusarius on June 23, 2020, 11:51:04 AM
power supply inadequate?
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on June 26, 2020, 01:05:20 AM
I check and it has power but then I got sidetracked and cut up a bunch of logs.  I should have pulled it and brought it home to mess with it but it slipped my mind.  I'll be going back up next week to work on the rest of the logs.  I replaced my home-turned wheels with some bigger ones from a hydraulic lift gate mechanism.  Nice round profile for " cable, about 6" diameter and roller bearings.  The head rolls real easy now - about 1 pound of force to move it.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Tom King on June 26, 2020, 02:15:44 PM
I had missed this thread before, but back to those jacks.   I have several just like that.  They belonged to my Dad.  He told me that were Model T jacks.

Even though I have a fairly good sized collection of hydraulic jacks, I still end up using those once in a while.  I used one just a few weeks ago to get the sag out of a very old door.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on January 18, 2021, 09:51:44 PM
Time for an update - not just to this thread, but to my mill.  Over the last few years, I've had a number of breakdowns and field repairs.  Now that I'm down the hill for the winter, it's time for Version 2.0!

Things I'm keeping:
1) Track.  Works great and has remained as straight as when it was built (one section has a weld-induced sag of about 1/8" in the middle of 16')
2) Bunks.  Work good but need a couple more - stole idea from someone on the Forum.
3) Log dogs.  Version 2.0 of those are great - stole idea from someone else on the Forum.
4) Electric head lift.  Wheelchair motor (24v) running on 12v is adequate.

Things I'm changing:
1) Power travel.  Worked ok when first install but controller died.  Doesn't fit my cutting style.  Might make a hand crank system with a neutral for returning.  I use the pressure I need to push as a guide to my blade sharpness.
2) Drive wheels.  The doughnut spare tires work ok but I bought some steel pulley wheels with 1.5" hubs to be more conventional.
3) Band guides.  I have Cooks guides but need to rework the alignment system.  Also, the sliding width adjustment I will improve and add an actuator to electrically move them in and out.
4) Drive ratio.  Currently I'm going from ~6" motor pulley to a 15" attached to the 21" tires.  I'm reducing it to a 12" attached to the new 18.75" band wheels.  That should increase my band speed a little.  Not sure what my engine top end rpm is but it sounds slow-ish.  18hp B&S twin cylinder.
5) Belt tensioning.  I have an automotive belt tensioner that I will use to replace my kludgey one.
6) Lube system - try to install an electric valve tied to the electric clutch.
7) Switch from car hubs to pillow blocks.  Incorporate better blade tension and tracking systems.
8 ) Upgrade lift to include garage door torsion springs to help balance the weight.
9) Width of cut - increasing about 6".  I get ~3" from reducing the band wheels diameter and another ~3" by reworking the guides.

I opted to go with a band wheel kit off of eBay that had a pair of wheels, hub adapters for 1.5" and v-belts.  Surplus Center maxed out at 1-7/16.  I wanted to go as big as possible on the axles.  So now I need to purchase some pillow block bearings and some axle material. 

Looking for recommendations.  I see some bearings on Surplus Center and a bunch on eBay.  I don't see speed ratings, let alone country of origin!  For the axles is it 1018 steel that I need?  Not cold rolled?  The band wheels will be as close to the bearings as possible with the drive pulley (12") mounted between bearings.
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: Rob Gibbs on January 19, 2021, 02:01:41 AM
New to this forum. I am starting to build a mobile band saw mill. John, you may want to source some 1030 for axle stock. 1018 is a little soft in my opinion and will bend more easily than the 30 point steel.

Plans and acquired materials: I am using a Honda 20hp v-twin electric start for power, 21" bandsaw wheels and a 22' long 7" C-channel frame. I hope to use a few dc motors, 600-800w , to power the carriage lift and tracking. I am hoping that someone out there has done similarly and has advise/ recommendations. I will use speed controllers for both motors.

Cheers, Rob
Title: Re: And another sawmill build thread...
Post by: ljohnsaw on January 19, 2021, 10:06:22 AM
Rob,
Welcome to the Forum.  Thanks for the steel info - I'm going to visit a supplier's drop shelves today or tomorrow.

Do you already have the C channel?  If it is what you have, go with it.  However, in my experience, it is not as stiff as box steel - it can twist - though 7" is pretty stout and very heavy!  I made mine from 2x4x.  If I were to do it again, I'd only go with 3/16" wall.