Band saw Cutting Wavy Cuts.

[Rod Yowell]

Hello Guys. We are trying to  'iron out the kinks' on operating our Woodland Mill 126. We are having the same problem over and over again. If I change bands and start cutting I only make 1 or 2 cuts and I start cutting wavy boards. I keep throwing the right side belt off. Even if I go very slowly while cutting, it still cuts waves and the band starts to be hard to cut or the belt comes off. I am wondering if I am not doing something right or not.

Could I have the saw band on too loose? or too tight? I have finished a cut and the band ends up being 1/4" to 5/8" higher than the remaining log without touching the adjusting handle. When I am cutting I can see the band has a 'bow' in it as I cut.
I can start out right on the 'money' about 1 " down but after I finish a cut, I have waves and the band blade is higher that the remaining log.

If I change blades I can make a couple of cuts and the problem starts again. Anyone have any thoughts?

[WH_Conley]

Sounds like the band is rubbing against something and taking the set off one side of the blade. The tension could be suspect too.

[beenthere]

What are you meaning by the "right side belt" ??

And from what others have said over the years, sounds too like the teeth are losing their set.

Have you the instructions for mill setup, and followed all the setup procedures?

Need more info about what is happening to decipher.  Others may pin it down with what you have given.

Best of luck pinning down the problem.

[pineywoods]

When you mount another blade, is it a new blade or just "another" blade?
The clasic cause for wavy lumber is pushing a dull blade past it's limits. Sharp don't get it. On these low powered mills, the blade gotta be razor sharp..
1. dull blade
2. not enough set
3. crud build up on the blade
4. not enough tension
5. mis-aligned guide roller pushing the back edge of the blade downward

A combination of the above.

[Rod Yowell]

Pineywoods I think you are right on. I believe I have at least 2 or 3 of the problems you listed. When I go back down this Wed. I will try these solutions out.
  Thanks guys.

[grweldon]

I'm certainly not the most experienced here, but it sounds to me as if it's a blade tension issue...

[Compensation]

By right side are you talking non-powered side (idle)? Do the teeth ever ride on the belt? That could be why it tosses it off if the teeth are grabbing it. If it cuts downwards you are loosing set on the inside of the band could be blamed on tracking. Sometimes I see guys put the blades on and don't let the teeth hang over but that's pretty much a immediate impact. Or the blade could be pushed back during your first few cuts making it pull and come back further on the belt.  Just a few thoughts.

[thecfarm]

I have a manual mill and I just push down on the blade. I can push it down about ¼ inch kinda easy. I know the kinda easy helps out alot.  : But it works for me.  ;D  Good luck.

[ladylake]

 
I think the guides on the woodland mill aren't the best, I'd put some Cooks roller guide on and adjust them to Cooks specs.  Not cheap but will cut straight.   steve

[giant splinter]

Rod,
I was thinking that you bought that mill just recently, have you tried the guys at woodland mills? seems like there are many of those mills and owners here on the forum and I know that owners of that company are members and sponsors here, give them a shout i bet they will get you on the right track. There has been some solid advise handed down also and I bet you will have it squared away fairly soon. Clean up the belts and band wheels and take a look around in there to see if the paint is getting knocked off of anything and then you may be able go through it all and get it sorted out and cutting accurately. If you take one of your old blades and paint it with rattlecan black then place it back on the mill and fire it up the blade may give away the source of contact where the paint rubs off. Try everything you can think of ....... you will figure it out.

[drobertson]

It has to be part blade tension, part hp transmission to the drive pulley,  a new mill will  need adjustments to tighten up the drive belt, If I remember right, Rod is running a 10 hp, not allot of room for hp drop here, blade guides, not sure I have not seen the set up, but quite sure it is a reasonably simple fix, dull blades will cause havoc for sure, as will a lack in hp to the blade,    david

[Rod Yowell]

All good advice guys. I will be trying your suggestions this weekend. I did talk to Josh at Woodland Mills. A really nice guy. He said he thinks it is the blade tension. He says I need to really 'get down' on the T-handle and tighten the heck out of it.
   I had a great conversation with drobertson on the phone and he gave me a lot of info. I am looking forward to a visit from him at my property in a few weeks. I am sure I will learn a lot before he has to leave. Thanks to all you guys for your help.
   Majicman I got the PM and your address. It is on the way. I wish I could go with you.

[HaroldSiefke]

When I bought my woodland mill it had belts that had a rounded top.what I mean is the part of the belt that the blade rides on is rounded. I believe that they switched to a flat topped belt know. I tried these belts and my blade kept coming off. I also put a roller guide   system similer to the cooks roller guides and my mill cuts much straighter then it did when I bought it. Look in my gallery and see some of the mods I've done to this mill. The mill has held up well with a twenty HP Subaru motor.good luck and happy milling.