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stihl model ??

Started by bigbore, April 04, 2012, 08:53:59 PM

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Al_Smith

I'm not certain if it's the same design or not .I've only seen two 076's and one 075 in my life time .They could be alike as far as I know .

bigbore

Thought i'd give you a heads up with whats happening with the"BEAST". I had to send to Germany for a coil and still no joy. After a lot of seaching i got a trigger unit and i now have a strong spark.....now for the bad news, it won't start and just keeps flooding. I have not messed with settings on the carb but did put a carb kit on.
Anyone any ideas????

Tramp Bushler

Be gentil with the flywheel . . The 075 imo was a better saw than the 076 . For some reason the 76 would over heat .
The 75 pulls a 60" bar 404 full skip chisel pretty good . My bet is its not spark . Some of them refused to start if you used the decompression valve .
I would push it in . Chock the saw pull it over about 5 pulls , then pull out the decomp button and it would fire . Flick the chock off hold the throttle wide open and zooommm .
I, ve had 3 075s and run a bunch more . Can't remember a one of them that would start with the decomp button in .
.
If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

bigbore

Thanks Tramp Bushler, but if i pull it over five times it's flooded by then?? and fuel starts spitting from the top of the carb.

old 030

i had issues with the ignition on my 051, so i swapped out an 050 crankcase with point ignition, runs great now, couldn't resist painting it while it was apart!

 

sawguy21

I have not seen one of those looking that good for a lot of years.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

old 030

Quote from: sawguy21 on May 27, 2012, 03:38:38 PM
I have not seen one of those looking that good for a lot of years.
thanks, it really runs well now too

 

bigbore

I stripped the carb down again today to make sure the kit was fitted ok and all seems well. can't see why it floods straight away.

Nice job an the 050 smiley_clapping

lumberjack48

bigbore, i would completely close the jets, pull the plug, take a match or lighter, hold in the plug hole an pull starter rope real slow, burn all the gas out of it, then see if it will run by spraying gas in the carb.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

old 030

Quote from: bigbore on May 27, 2012, 07:39:46 PM
I stripped the carb down again today to make sure the kit was fitted ok and all seems well. can't see why it floods straight away.

Nice job an the 050 smiley_clapping
thanks, hope you get yours worked out ;D

Full Chisel

Quote from: lumberjack48 on April 09, 2012, 06:58:37 PM
Sounds like you have it flooded, pull the plug out, get a match or lighter, pull the starter rope real slow, holding a match in or right by the spark plug hole. It will go woofff, do this until its cleaned out, put the plug back in, should fire the first pull.

smiley_devil_trident  Yeah!!! smiley_devil_trident
Jed: Jethro, how's come they ain't no ice in Kali Forni-a?

Jethro: Don't look at me Uncle Jed. I didn't take it.

deerslayer

You have of course changed the spark plug?

I personally wouldn't recommend putting a flame in the spark plug hole unless you have tried everything you can think of and are completely fed up with the project (and aren't inside a building)
Too many chainsaws, not enough wood.
Stihl, Husky, Craftsman, Mac, Homelite, Poulan. Some live here, some just passing through.

lonewolf

Maybe I'm stating the obvious. Haven't ran 1 of these in years slide ever is your choke not for oil. If I remember back was choke.
"EARTH FIRST"  WE'LL LOG THE OTHER PLANETS LATER

mad murdock

Bigbore, mine will start with decomp button pushed, but it will flood easily. When cold my start procedure goes like this-1-2 pulls with choke on as soon as it pops, choke off then pull again, usually will fire off, maybe quits then choke again till pops, then off with choke right away before pulling again. Sometimes I need to hold throttle wide open while pulling and it clears and starts if it is a little flooded. If yours won't pop, and just floods, I would suspect timing.  Did you say you got the flywheel off? Mebbe a broken key, and shifted timing?
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

bigbore

Sorry i did'nt reply earlier, where i'm upto at the moment is ----
new plug.fuel lines, coil, ignition unit that replaces trigger unit(could not get original),new carb kit. Checked all other parts in carb and are ok.The only thing i am not sure of and can find no mention of it is the diaphram in the kit has a differant centre pin than the original and i think its perminently holding open the fuel valve.I'm trying different settings by bending the arm but as this involves getting into the carb each time its easy to get fed up and leave it for a day or two.I must add that it has run for a few seconds three times but only when the high and low jets are screwed right in. say_what
Allmost forgot the key for flywheel is intact and only one keyway in flywheel

stihlsawer

Your saw is definitely an older 075. Most 075s that you see have the oil cap on top instead of the side, however, later model 075 did have the side oil cap like the 076s. Some of those 075s even had chain brakes. The only difference between the 075 and 076 is the ignition and fuel tank/recoil.

Stock Tillotson HS-60 carb settings with a clean air filter are: Low 1 turn from a lightly seated needle, High 1 1/4 turn from a lightly seated needle
Screw them in lightly seated and back them out. Do not seat them hard or you could ruin the carb body.

I have and use a 075 and am finishing a 076 Super that I made from a TS 760 chop saw. I have ran and built other 051s and 075s as well.

Both of mine have decomp valves. When the saw is cold, I slide the choke on and set the fast idle button on the side the handle.
As soon as it fires slide the choke off and leave the fast idle set. The next pull should fire it off. Remember to push your decomp valve back in or you will remember real quick.

Now as for the ignitions, sounds like you have the 1111 400 1305 coil. This coil uses a wire for the on/off switch and has a pair the goes to the trigger. Your trigger is under the flywheel as you know. You can use an external trigger in its place. I do not use under the flywheel triggers on any of my 1111 series Stihls. The external trigger is Stihl P/N 1118 400 1001 that sells for around $40.

Stihl only offers two coils now to the best of my knowledge. The 1111 400 1301 and 1111 400 1303 coils. You can still find your coil 1111 400 1305.
If you need a new coil, then I would get the 1111 400 1303 off EBAY or ?? This coil is a module and does not require any trigger. It has the spark plug wire (secondary wire) and one wire that goes to the on/off switch. I just priced one today from my two Stihl dealers $148 and the other dealer was $158. Pretty expensive I know, but you can find them cheaper sometimes.

I would leave the existing trigger in place if you can not get the correct puller. It is not going to hurt anything. If you are able to get the flywheel off then get rid of it and replace the flywheel. Either way I would go with your coil and the external trigger.

Check your recoil while you have the fuel tank off. You might want to replace your fuel filter while you are at it. Hold you air filter up to light as well to ensure there are no holes in it. If there are please do yourself a favor and replace it.

I hope this helps. Let me know if I can help. Have a blessed day.

Trever


 


  


  


 
Trever Jones
Stihl 076 Super, 034, MS 260 PRO, MS 192T
Dolmar 116si
GB 44" lumber mill, Mini mill, Beam machine

jsaws

Can the 1111 400 1303 ignition module be used with the 075 saw? Is there anything else required besides removing the trigger device like using an 076 flywheel?  I am restoring some 075 saws and would like to use the ignition module without the trigger mechanism.  Thanks for any suggestions.

joe_indi

1111 400 1303 ignition module was for the 076
1111 400 1305 ignition module  was for the 075.
I referred the long extinct Electronic catalog and  more recently discontinued 2012 version of Mediacat for this info.
None of them do not show any trigger device.
In the diagram they both look the same. The only difference that I could find was the length of the ignition lead.
075=270mm
076=290mm.
This might be the difference in part numbers.
Joe

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