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HELP!! Cutting green Black Locust with LPX chain NOT going so well.

Started by JRHAWK9, May 10, 2014, 10:39:57 AM

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JRHAWK9

Hi, this is my first time cutting Black Locust and I quickly found out it seems to dull LPX chain pretty quickly.  I hand file to the specs listed on the box using a Grandberg.  The chain was pretty much razor sharp when I started.  What do you experienced guys use for chain setups to cut Locust?  I'm not opposed to running a Stihl chain on my Husky, but I would need to know what I would need to do in order to do so.  My ported 346XP currently has a 3/8" setup, but I'm also not opposed to going back to the 0.325" setup if it will help at all.  Are there better filing angles one can use to help the chain stay sharper longer?
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.   
thanks!
Paul

Dave Shepard

I have always used full chisel (round filed, pointy cutter) for locust. Locust is just plain hard on chains.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

thecfarm

I was working for a guy and clearing out around a stonewall for him. Had a bunch of dead black cherry around the wall. Biggest was about a foot across,normal for this area,the dead part too. Man that stuff was some hard. I get digging around my a stone wall on my land and will dig up a root ball from many,many years ago. Yep,it's black cherry.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

brettl

I cut hedge/Osage Orange, and it's said to be as hard or harder than Black Locust. I need to research that wood because I wouldn't know it if I saw it. I'd like to run across some but I don't know what areas of the country it groes in.
I echo what Dave said. My 024's are 325, standard(no skip), round chisel. Oregon and Stihl. I'm in the process of learning these things myself and everybody tells me that square chisel dulls quicker in dirty conditions and also agree that it's a bit harder to sharpen. You shouldn't need to go to 325 though. Just find a round chisel, standard chain. From what I've learned first hand, Oregon and Stihl are tough chains. I've read that Silver Streak is soft and considered homeowners grade(?). Carlton and WoodlandPro I don't know about. Somebody will chime in here on those.

ehp

I cut enough locust to suit my liking , first thing is this , are the trees growing in sand or near a field , most locust around here are bad for having sand in the wood which dulls the chain . I really donot find the wood hard to cut but the sand knocks the hell out of the chain, , If the trees are near a field the wind picks up dirt and blows it in to the bark on the tree . File your chain with less top plate angle and cut your rackers abit more to . A chain with les top plate will stand up to dirt better than a chain with more angle , More angle makes the leading edge thinner which dulls easier in dirty wood

luvmexfood

We have what we call yellow locust around here. Greeneis yellow past the sapwood. Yes it is hard to cut especially if it is dry. Figure a filing to a tank of gas.

Amazing thing is as hard as it is I have seen woodpeckers make a hole about 3 inches deep in it and 2 inches wide and 5 inches long.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

SawTroll

Quote from: ehp on May 10, 2014, 07:48:41 PM
I cut enough locust to suit my liking , first thing is this , are the trees growing in sand or near a field , most locust around here are bad for having sand in the wood which dulls the chain . I really donot find the wood hard to cut but the sand knocks the hell out of the chain, , If the trees are near a field the wind picks up dirt and blows it in to the bark on the tree . File your chain with less top plate angle and cut your rackers abit more to . A chain with les top plate will stand up to dirt better than a chain with more angle , More angle makes the leading edge thinner which dulls easier in dirty wood

That surely makes sense to me, despite of the obvious misprints.  ;D
Information collector.

Andyshine77

The locust around here is incredibly hard, and in turn is really hard on chains. I find Stihl chain to much more durable than any Oregon 3/8 chain. Stihl RM would be the way to go IMHO. It's simi chisel chain, and in my experience, I've at least double run time between sharpenings. Obviously if the wood has sand and nails in it, that would change you sharpening intervals a little.lol
Andre.

JohnG28

Yeah, Stihl chain just holds an edge better in every situation I have come across. What size b/c you running?  Anything more than 18" or so is probably making the situation worse, 16" would be better running 3/8 chain.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

JRHAWK9

I currently have a 16" 3/8" B&C, but plan on switching back to a 0.325"/0.050" 18" bar (because I can't get a Total SB in a 16" bar).  I will then run a Stihl RM chain. 

About the sand in Locust, I just read this:   
QuoteWhat most don't know is that black locust will take up silica from the soil if is available just like other nutrients. This means "sand" in the wood so to speak. Hence the sparks. If I cut on black dirt, much easier cutting than on sandy soils. For years I thought the sand got blown into the bark and stuck, but then read an interesting article by a forestry biologist that explained it.

We live where there is a lot of sand and sand stone in the ground.  I guess that explains what I'm seeing.  I just removed my chain and looked at my cutters.  The point on the full chisel cutter is literally "turned down"....!     :o 

thanks guys!

beenthere

JRHawk
Maybe filed wrong? At least it would be my first suspicion.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

JRHAWK9

Quote from: beenthere on May 11, 2014, 08:01:44 PM
JRHawk
Maybe filed wrong? At least it would be my first suspicion.

That's a possibility.  I may have put too much hook in the cutter by going too deep...which left a very sharp point, but one which dulls very quickly.  I've never had issues cutting oak though. 


JohnG28

Are you just felling these trees? Or bucking to firewood length? You could take an ax with you and knock the bark off before making your cuts, but if it's going down to firewood then probably not going to be too time efficient.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

JRHAWK9

Quote from: JohnG28 on May 12, 2014, 10:27:41 AM
Are you just felling these trees? Or bucking to firewood length? You could take an ax with you and knock the bark off before making your cuts, but if it's going down to firewood then probably not going to be too time efficient.

No, we're bucking them for firewood.  What I've read it's not just the bark but also the wood which can contain silica if they are growing in sandy soil (which they are).  I found a local Stihl dealer who sells their chains for $1 a bar inch. So I can pick up some .0325 or 3/8" RM for my 16" bars for $16ea. Some 3/8" RM for my 24" bar will cost me $24, which isn't much more than I can get Oregon for online.

Al_Smith

Black locust is hard but it's no harder than EAB killed ash and certainly not as hard as shag bark hickory .

Some wood you just need to use the file more .Instead of say running two tanks of fuel and file it might be one or less .Just keep a file handy and hit it a lick when it needs it .It takes a whole 5 minutes to dress a 20" loop .--Well it takes me 5 minutes maybe some need more time --- ;)

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