Chainsaw Mill Aux. Oiler

Furby · February 13, 2005, 11:26:16 PM

Has anyone made one, or does anyone have any close-up pics?
Wanted to see if they were really worth the $$$ being asked for one, or if I could just make one myself.

Dan_Shade · February 14, 2005, 08:51:52 AM

If you can make up the hollow bolt to flow the oil into the bar, you'll be in good shape.

I looked at trying to make one of them myself, but decided it would just be easier to buy one.

I actually had to buy two, because a "renowned" chainsaw miller from out west decided to go out of business before he shipped me the oiler, at least I got the rest of the kit.

the whole thing works pretty easy, it's a tank with a flow valve and it just drips oil into the chain groove. if you have a good drill press and vice or a milling machine, I'd definately attempt to make one.

Husky · February 14, 2005, 09:02:57 AM

I made one out of an old craftsman lawnmower gas tank. I cut out the slide mount from the recoil shroud that the gas tank mounts and welded a rod on that and slid that into the top of the up rights on the mill. Then ran a tube with a shut off to the bar with a metal tube holder to direct the oil on the chain. I works fine.

Dan_Shade · February 14, 2005, 09:26:24 AM

you dripped oil on the outside of the chain? I thought about fixing up something to do that, but figured getting oil into the bar groove would work a bit better.

Husky · February 14, 2005, 05:02:24 PM

Yup I just run a steady bead of oil on the chain seems to work good. The saws oiler is turned up to the max too. I haven't burned up a bar yet. I use the bar for timming logs with out the mill so i didn't want to drill it.

Dan_Shade · February 14, 2005, 06:38:46 PM

i've used my bar with the hole in it as well, to cut logs, it may be a problem but I haven't paid much attention to it... probably should put duck tape or something over it when I'm using it

Furby · February 14, 2005, 08:19:41 PM

Thanks, that's pretty much what I thought.
Are you useing a harden steel bar or titanium, Husky?
Mine's titanium, I don't know if it would make a difference.
Got a couple of the lawnmower tanks, and plenty other small tanks that I picked up from work, so that's not a problem. What kind of tubing do you guys have? Poly?
Planning to order a new chain, so I will see what I think when I do. I'm not paying shipping twice, again. :

Gonna weld up the frame this week, just forgot one key piece of steel and need to go get that first. :

oldsaw · February 14, 2005, 11:29:21 PM

Then it turned out to be $80. Now $80 wasn't a good deal, but, $40 and it fits on the mill without goofing around...sounded good to me.

Unusual for me, I'm usually the complete cheapskate.

sawmillsi · February 15, 2005, 02:15:05 AM

Hi Furby,

We use the bolt method that Dan mentioned.

If you have a titanium bar you will find it real hard to drill, we use a masonary bit in a drill press, lots of water and we take our time.

Good luck.

Simon

Dan_Shade · February 15, 2005, 07:11:00 AM

my bar is a titanium alloy

it is very hard, my dad has an old hand turn drill press that has a handle on the top of it to turn the bit, and another feed screw on it.

I took it over there and used that to do it, I've heard you can do it with a drill press turning the chuck by hand.

I also drilled two more holes to allow me to bolt the guide to the bar, instead of clamping it. I saw this in Will Malloff's book, it allows you to change the chain without taking the works apart.

Husky · February 15, 2005, 12:47:49 PM

I just use a regular steel bar. I used 1/4" gas line with a shut off towards the bottom so I don't waste oil on the ground. I use this mill for logs that are too big to fit on my bandsaw mill. I slice them down till they fit and them on the bandsaw mill.

Furby · February 15, 2005, 09:39:56 PM

I knew it wouldn't be easy, but planned to do the hand twisting chuck bit.
How far back from the edge are the oiler holes?

Dan, I seen that as well, and thought about it, but decided to go with the clamp method for now. Maybe I'll change my mind later. :

Dan_Shade · February 15, 2005, 10:48:40 PM

I drilled my hole about 7/16" from the edge of the bar

KiwiCharlie · February 16, 2005, 12:56:55 AM

Hi Furby,
I can highly recommend the modification of drilling the bar to bolt on the mill, rather than clamping. Real easy to change chains on the go. Also, another handy mod is drilling horizontally through the inboard thrust skid to allow access to the chain tensioner on the saw. This allows you to tension in the cut if need be, or at least not having to remove the mill to do it. Both are great tips from Malloff.
Onto the oiler, they are easy enough to make. You could always buy the hollow bolt as a "spare part" if you wanted, and make the remainder of the parts. As to how far in on the bar to drill the hole, just keep in mind this depends on how worn your bar is, ie if its worn and the bar groove is lower than on a new bar, that needs to be taken into consideration. You want the hole to just tag the bottom of the bar groove to allow the oil in.
Cheers,
Charlie.

Furby · February 16, 2005, 08:13:54 PM

Ok, so lets say I do drill the bar for the mounts and not use the clamps.
I have not actually read Will Malloff's book, but have just seen small portions.
Do you have one or two bolts at each end of the bar, and are they just regular hex head bolts? What size?
I'm going to be useing a long bar, and it will also be used for cross cutting without the mill, so I don't want to weaken it.

Dan_Shade · February 16, 2005, 08:42:53 PM

You have to drill and tap the post on the "standoffs", I put one on bolt on each end, I think I used 3/8 bolts. I don't think it does much to weaken the bar.

KiwiCharlie · February 17, 2005, 12:40:28 AM

Hi Furby,
Malloff goes into good detail on how to do the mods, so it may be worth seeing if your local library can get a copy of his book in for you to read. Ive used my bar with these mods for cross cutting, and have had no problems.

Furby · February 17, 2005, 12:54:24 AM

Do you happen to have the full name of the book or the ISBN #?
I use to know someone with the book, but that was sometime ago and don't remember it much.

Found it!
Chainsaw Lumbermaking

Author: Malloff, Will
Paperback; Illustrations
212 pages
Published: December 1982
The Taunton Press
ISBN: 0918804124

Just put in a request to have it shipped to the library near me, as it's on the shelf across the county. ;D
Thanks guys!

KiwiCharlie · February 17, 2005, 11:25:23 PM

Hi Furby,
You will get heaps from the book, even given its age now. At work today, I had the following thought (which I duely noted on my hand!) which you might find helpful. Now, you say you are going to use a long bar with the saw. If its over 36", I would recommend you get one of the Granberg accessories which helps stiffen the mill when using the longer bars. Basically its another end bracket and 'on-off guide bar' plus the required hardware needed to mount them. The extra bracket and on-off bar really help to stop any twist, and the extra on-off bar is helpful getting onto the larger logs too. I use one of the kits on my 42" bar, and any bars longer than that I use 2 of them!
Its not listed anywhere on the Granberg website, but the part number is G776-17.
Cheers
Charlie.

Furby · February 17, 2005, 11:34:47 PM

Thanks for the info, I'm actually making the mill myself. :

Yeah, I'm looking for trouble. :D
It's just a bit over 36", try 72". ;) ;D
Is there anyplace on the web where I can find a pic of what you are talking about?

KiwiCharlie · February 17, 2005, 11:46:40 PM

Furby,
Try milling with a 90" bar - now thats interesting! If you send me a PM with your email add I can always scan the parts diagram for the Granberg if you want.
Backwoods magazine should have an online article about homemade chainsaw mills. I will see if I can find a link.
Charlie.

KiwiCharlie · February 17, 2005, 11:49:52 PM

Here you go - basic but interesting.
http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/tresl39.html
Charlie

Furby · February 18, 2005, 12:12:07 AM

Thanks, I found that artical a while back, but couldn't remember where. :

That's pretty close to what I have in mind, maybe a little more bracing and such.

A 90" bar sounds interesting. I was trying to find a cheaper long bar for a while and couldn't find what I wanted. Almost had an 80" one made, then found the 72" for sale with the saw. The biggest log I have at this point is a large Y that if I remember right is 64" at it's widest, so it may need a little trimming.

KiwiCharlie · February 18, 2005, 12:37:15 AM

Hi Furby,
I borrowed the 90" for a job, but would like to get one for myself. I dont think anyone would make a cheap one! I think it was a GB bar. They make up to 84" standard, but will custom make longer ones.
What saw did you get? I have the 090.
Charlie.

Furby · February 18, 2005, 12:52:03 AM

I wanted an 090, thought long and hard about it, and then this 3120xp popped up with the 72" bar, two crosscut chains (one never used), and a 22" bar and new chain. Figured I could live with this. :D
It's an AESOME saw! Never use an 090 though, so I can't compare them.

I could have used this setup last summer if I had the time. About a mile from me they took out a hard maple that was almost 5' DBH, and straight for about 20'. They were trying to cut cookies out of it, and it took them several months to deal with the whole thing.
Should of made the time, but I didn't. :