Milling cost scaling based on Wood hardness ?

[Knickia]

I am trying to figure milling cost for Mesquite and wanted to see if the following assumptions would be safe or even close to correct. I was thinking the Janka Scale should be a good scaling reference.

All woodmizer etc performance data on mill is based on 12" Red Oak. I figure on sawing 8"-16" Mesquite (Some will be larget but playing the low end)

An LT15 will run thru Red Oak at 17'/minute and I think they gave a safe estimate of 1000 bf a day.

Janka Scores:
( Ripped from here: http://www.walkonwood.com/technical_information.htm )
Red Oak 1290
Hard Maple 1450

Mesquite 2354
Brazilian Cherry 2350


So assuming same size/shape logs I would saw 1/2 as much Mesquite (Or Brazilian cherry) as I would red oak ?

Feel free to tear my Assumptions apart. I am trying to make sure I can pay for my mill (and hobby work) before I sign on the dotted line.

Thanks
Knickia

[Ron Wenrich]

I think a lot has to do with the grain.  Is it fairly straight?

I have never run a Woodmizer, or any small band mill.  I have run a big circle mill and know that I have to slow somewhat for some of the harder species.  But, most of that is due to tooth dulling.

I can saw hickory as fast as I can red oak and ash, as long as I'm good and sharp.  However, I do have to slow down for the maples.  It usually wants to draw my saw a little.  

Production costs would depend on log size, and how often you have to change blades.  

Just my 2 cents.  

[DanG]

I don't think you'd have any trouble justifying the price of a mill in the class of the LT-15, if you're not counting on it to make your living. There are other things to consider, before taking the plunge, however.  You will need some support equipment. Logs and lumber are heavy, and you will find that your production is limited more by the labor required to handle them, than by the saw, itself. You will need a truck and trailer, for sure, and a tractor with front-end loader is a huge plus. You also need some space to work, and a shelter to store lumber.
On the business side of the business, you need to secure a source of raw materials, IE, logs. You want to be pretty sure you have a market for your product, as well.
Ask yourself if you have the skills necessary to operate and maintain all this stuff. Repairs are a fact of life in this kind of business, and it can eat you alive, if you have to hire someone to do all of them. For instance, my tractor is scattered all over my shop, right now, because the hydraulic system crapped out. The dealer said to expect $600-$1200. I tore it down in one afternoon, bought the parts for $80, and now all I gotta do is get it back together. :
Now, I'm not telling you all of this to discourage you, but just to make sure you know what you're getting into. Some of the above items seem expensive, but you gotta have transportation, anyway, so it may as well be a truck. You gotta live somewhere, anyway, so it may as well be someplace that you can run your mill. You don't have to have a brand new tractor. The old ones will still do a heck of a job.
I suggest you find someone who has a mill near you, and arrange to spend some time helping out with the labor, or just observe his operation in operation.
You don't have to have all of this stuff on hand before you buy a mill, but you don't need to be surprised by the need for it after you commit yourself to a monthly payment. Logs and lumber can be handled by hand, but only on a small scale.
Well, I got a little long-winded, didn't I.  That's what you get when you ask advice from an old fart. :D :D
Stick around here and learn all you can, and, above all, don't let your dream get away from you. I wish I was your age, knowing what I know now. I'd be doing just what you're talking about. GOOD LUCK. ;)

[Jeff]

Feed rate on any mill is only part of the equation. Loading the logs, turning the logs, removing by products, etc takes about the same amount of time, other then harder logs might translate to heavier logs, thus a little added time and effort on the handling end.

I can feed Red Oak on a good sharp saw almost as fast as Aspen, at least within 15 to 20%

[woodman]

  That's why i charge by the hour and the blade.

[ARKANSAWYER]

Knickia,
   You could do as Woodman said and charge by the hour and blade and be safe but that is hard for people to know what they are getting till they try you.  If I get a hard log in a load it goes for the same money as the rest but if I have to saw 2000 bdft of hickory or elm then I charge extra.  I also use a 0.055 blade that does not live as long but cuts better and keeps my production up to about 250 bdft an hour in good logs.
   You should get a few logs and new blades and saw on your own and do a test run to see what you production per hour would be and get a estamate of blade life.  If your are going to be buying logs and selling lumber then you should just past the cost on.
   On small logs (6 to 10 inches) you spend as much time getting to the wood as you would on a medium log (12 to 16 inchs) and not get a 1/3 the wood for the effort.  I can saw through a 10 inch persimmion (they are hard)  about as fast as a 20 inch red oak so you can see that your concerns are warrented.
   Get you an hour rate that you can live with and try it that way as it is easier to come down on price then go up.
ARKANSAWYER