Restoring an old Belsaw edger from the swamps of Florida.

[Quebecnewf]

A quick question . Where did you get the belts from. I am soon going to need flat belts for an old planer I am rebuilding. Now mind you, my rebuild is not of this caliber ...

Quebecnewf

[Kbeitz]

A quick question . Where did you get the belts from. I am soon going to need flat belts for an old planer I am rebuilding. Now mind you, my rebuild is not of this caliber ...

Quebecnewf

I spent most of my life working in textile factories. When they closed up I got rolls
of new belting. This new stuff is leather with a plastic type backing. You can by it at
a bearing supply store. You also need a belt lacier . McMaster Carr sells both belting
and laciers.

[Ox]

Could you take a 12" carbide blade with a smaller hole and machine the hole out to 2"?

How do you adjust the blades on the edger for different width boards?  I don't remember seeing a handle.  It was probably mentioned but I missed it...

[moodnacreek]

Kbeitz, after this project you build one from scratch!    Doug

[Kbeitz]

Could you take a 12" carbide blade with a smaller hole and machine the hole out to 2"?

How do you adjust the blades on the edger for different width boards?  I don't remember seeing a handle.  It was probably mentioned but I missed it...

I was thinking I could take a 12" blade and drill 3 holes in it and mount it
in my turntable and mill a bigger hole. But I think most saw blades is made
from high speed steel.and that would not be easy to work with.

[Hilltop366]

Don't know about larger blades but I cut a section out of a regular 7¼" circular saw blade, it cut very easily with a hacksaw so it could not have been too hard.

[Kbeitz]

Don't know about larger blades but I cut a section out of a regular 7¼" circular saw blade, it cut very easily with a hacksaw so it could not have been too hard.

If you google it people are looking for old blades to make knifes out of
so it must be good steel.

[grouch]

A quick question . Where did you get the belts from. I am soon going to need flat belts for an old planer I am rebuilding. Now mind you, my rebuild is not of this caliber ...

Quebecnewf

I don't know if this place is still going and have never ordered from them (found while looking for belting for my lathe; old belt still working):

http://www.hitnmiss.com/25a.html

[Kbeitz]

https://www.mcmaster.com/#leather-belts/=1984q8w

Wow...Some at 6" wide is $70.00 per ft.

[Kbeitz]

It's finished except for putting on the new blades when I get them.
I sawed one board on it and was I surprised on how well it worked
with the beat up blades that's on it. It seems to be working real good.
The 14hp. kohler engine seems to have plenty of power for this job.
I put a roof on it so I can just park it beside my mill without worring
about it.



 



 



 



 

[grouch]

Nicely done. Maybe the old blades just need some touch up honing and use.




When are you starting on one for me?

[Kbeitz]

Nicely done. Maybe the old blades just need some touch up honing and use.





When are you starting on one for me?

Some of the teeth are missing and it looks like it was sharpened with a
chain saw. I did touch it up the best that I could but it's bad to the bone.

[fishfighter]

Looks great K. I think a couple more guards need to be installed. Just something with moving parts and no guards scary the heck out of me after seeing a man's arm ripped off his shoulder.

[whiskers]

Very nice, Just curious, how many hours in a day in your neck of the woods?
 
The off table on mine has a splitter strip in line with the fixed blade that helps maintain alignment as
the board and edgings leave the saws. Dull saws cut crooked lumber even with the strip.

A panic bar or switch (idiot proof if such a creature exists) on the in feed side to kill the engine would have saved an off bearer's hand when his glove cuff was caught by a spur on a slab. The edger had a release lever that lifted a weighted roller from the drive belt. Only problem he couldn't reach it. Being new didn't help matters any.
A very costly error for the uninsured mill owner also.

[Brad_bb]

I'd love to see video of this in action!

[Kbeitz]

Very nice, Just curious, how many hours in a day in your neck of the woods?
 
The off table on mine has a splitter strip in line with the fixed blade that helps maintain alignment as
the board and edgings leave the saws. Dull saws cut crooked lumber even with the strip.

A panic bar or switch (idiot proof if such a creature exists) on the in feed side to kill the engine would have saved an off bearer's hand when his glove cuff was caught by a spur on a slab. The edger had a release lever that lifted a weighted roller from the drive belt. Only problem he couldn't reach it. Being new didn't help matters any.
A very costly error for the uninsured mill owner also.

Thanks... I'll tie a string to the sparkplug wire.
Maybe I'll make a splitter strip. I would need to make it adjustable because
I can move both blades.

[grouch]

Very nice, Just curious, how many hours in a day in your neck of the woods?
 
The off table on mine has a splitter strip in line with the fixed blade that helps maintain alignment as
the board and edgings leave the saws. Dull saws cut crooked lumber even with the strip.

A panic bar or switch (idiot proof if such a creature exists) on the in feed side to kill the engine would have saved an off bearer's hand when his glove cuff was caught by a spur on a slab. The edger had a release lever that lifted a weighted roller from the drive belt. Only problem he couldn't reach it. Being new didn't help matters any.
A very costly error for the uninsured mill owner also.

Thanks... I'll tie a string to the sparkplug wire.
Maybe I'll make a splitter strip. I would need to make it adjustable because
I can move both blades.

Got an old set of points? Use 'em as a kill switch. Put a strip of some insulating material between the points and tie your string to that. A little tug lets the points come back together and ground it out.

[Kbeitz]

Very nice, Just curious, how many hours in a day in your neck of the woods?
 
The off table on mine has a splitter strip in line with the fixed blade that helps maintain alignment as
the board and edgings leave the saws. Dull saws cut crooked lumber even with the strip.

A panic bar or switch (idiot proof if such a creature exists) on the in feed side to kill the engine would have saved an off bearer's hand when his glove cuff was caught by a spur on a slab. The edger had a release lever that lifted a weighted roller from the drive belt. Only problem he couldn't reach it. Being new didn't help matters any.
A very costly error for the uninsured mill owner also.

Thanks... I'll tie a string to the sparkplug wire.
Maybe I'll make a splitter strip. I would need to make it adjustable because
I can move both blades.

Got an old set of points? Use 'em as a kill switch. Put a strip of some insulating material between the points and tie your string to that. A little tug lets the points come back together and ground it out.

Will this work with a battery coil engine ?

[grouch]

In that case, I'd wire it like a boat's lanyard style kill switch -- in series with the safety switch OPENing the circuit instead of grounding the coil.

Example

[Ianab]

Yes, you will want an Open to Stop switch to cut power to the ignition.

My mill has a big red E-Stop button mounted on top of the engine, which is right under the operators nose. If you have to shut down in a hurry, you can just mash button and the engine stops. Lift the button up again to reset and restart.

http://nz.element14.com/camdenboss/csc1-50/switch-e-stop-40mm-red-release/dp/2083457

If you want a longer cable system that you could string along the length of the machine so it can be activated from either end, then something like this.

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Safety/Safety_Switches/Cable-Pull_Safety_Switches

Switches like that should be dust and water protected for reliability. If you use something unreliable, you will end up bypassing it, and that defeats the purpose.

[Kbeitz]

I have a spring loaded micro switch that I will wire in with a cable...

Thanks...

[Peter Drouin]

Good job Kbeitz.  8)

[Kbeitz]

Thanks to all...

I can't wait till I get my new blades. In this picture you can see how bad the blades
are. You can even see cracks in the blade. I only edged one hard Ash board but it worked
really good. After I get the new blades and put them on and move the whole thing out
by the mill and cut with it for about an hour I will report of how well it works. Right now
I don't trust the blades to play with it much.

Thanks again for all the praise and ideas.

Kevin



 

[grouch]

That picture just proves that you ain't done yet.

Get back to work, you slacker!

[Kbeitz]

I finally got my blades in. I ended up with six new 12" blades carbide for $20.00
The edger had 11" blades on it but I think at one time they was 12"
It's all put together and ready for work.