Simpleset vs. Accuset?

[Lee Allen]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum, and I'm thankful for the wealth of info that is on this site. 
Can anyone explain the differences between Simpleset and Accuset controls on a Woodmizer mill?

[WDH]

A couple of basic differences.  Simpleset has the ability to store up to 6 settings.  But they are simple settings like just different thickness cuts, but only one thickness at a time.  Accuset can store many more patterns and complex patterns, like several thicknesses in one log like where you cut some 4/4 jacket boards but want to leave of a 4x6 timber from the center of the cant.  This can be programmed into accuset, but not simpleset.  In simpleset, you have to set to cut the 4x4, then when you get close to the center where you want to leave the 4x6 cant, you to have to pre-do the math in your head.

Simpleset does not know where the bed is.  You have to raise the head to the right height so that you will end up with a full board on the bottom for the thickness that you are cutting.  It is easy to do this with the magnetic scale that has 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, and 8/4 increments.  You have to raise the head the graduated mark on the scale for the thickness that you are cutting to get the right number of full thickness boards to the bed.  Accuset knows where the bed is, so you can start anyplace and the computer will adjust to give you the exact starting point.

I am sure there are other differences as well, so maybe some pro accuset users can chime in. 

[PAmizerman]

Wood-Mizer Accuset 2 Computerized Setworks - YouTube

[YellowHammer]

Simpleset is the first half of Accuset.  It references from the cut, but Accuset can referent from the cut, and also the sawmill bed.  Generally, both modes are used on the same log.

For example, when opening a log, you want to cut from the top of the log, hit "Auto Down 1-1/8" and every board will be that thickness using the actual cut as the reference face.  Simpleset and Accuset both have this mode.

Then when you roll the cant the reference face of the log is now on the mill bed, and the bed becomes the reference face.  So with Accuset, you go to pattern mode, 1 1-18" and now everything is referenced form the bed and every cut including the bottom board, will be 1 1/8" thick.  

[WV Sawmiller]

Danny,

   My SimpleSet only has 2 settings I toggle back and forth between. Usually one is for 4/4 lumber and the other for 8/4 but I change these often when cutting other thicknesses. I don't know how to get 6 as you mention. I ran an LT50 with Accuset for a guy one time and as I remember it had 4 buttons with 4 options each or 16 settings. I noticed the accuset had the blade up feature where you could set on a predetermined cut, such as your last board and toggle up one cut at time till you reached your desired starting point on the log/cant then you could actually start cutting. With SS I can only toggle down. As mentioned there is a pattern feature with Accuset which I can see would be great if cutting cross ties and you wanted to save the side lumber. Accuset would start and stop you at the desired 7" or 9" positions.

   They are both great programs. I love my SimpleSet and made and diligently use a cheat sheet to get my starting points which saves me a cut on each cant and I don't finish with a thick or thin board on the bottom. I probably would not need it with Accuset.

   I also bet 98% of the users out there don't use over half of the functionality of Accuset. Kind of like all the bells and whistles on most computer programs like Word or Excel or such.

   You won't go wrong with either. Accuset just offers a lot more options.

[SawyerTed]

 They are both great programs. I love my SimpleSet and made and diligently use a cheat sheet to get my starting points which saves me a cut on each cant and I don't finish with a thick or thin board on the bottom. I probably would not need it with Accuset.

With SimpleSet one has to use a cheat sheet and the magnetic scale OR channel their inner Jethro Bodine!  :D  There's more ciphering with SimpleSet.  Mine also stores just two settings and I change them from job to job and log to log.  Once you get used to it the mental figuring becomes more easily. 

[Bandmill Bandit]

I Been using simple set for a couple of years now and I still don't get the reasoning behind a "cheat sheet". 

The ruler knows where the bed is and that fact along with the simple set is all I need to cut consistent, quality lumber. I use the ruler to get the starting point on 2 sides and from there its a toggle down to the bed

If I want 5/4 x 6" boards I open on a 5/4 mark and then flip 90° and open the second face, flip 90° and cut to a 5/4 mark that allows max yield on the log, flip 90° and cut the last face to 6' +1/8 multiple (hopefully 2x). Flip 90° turn simple set to auto at 1 3/8" and cut to bed.       

[SawyerTed]

The cheat sheet is most useful to me if a customer wants 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 material.   It accounts for the kerf and helps find the starting point to arrive at a 1" dog board without a trim cut. Cutting on 4/4, 5/4, 6/4 or 8/8 the magnetic scale is the guide providing it is positioned for an equal bottom board.

[WV Sawmiller]

@Bandmill Bandit ,

  I have a confession - I never use my magnetic scale. There! All my dirty laundry has been aired. You are no doubt right that it would do the same thing. If I am cutting true 2" cuts and get to my 4th face I can set my height to 10.5" and see white wood above my mark but when I move to 12-5/8", my next mark, I see it will not edge out clean but I can see if I cut at 11-5/8" then drop 1-1/8" I can salvage a 4/4 board then resume sawing in 2-1/8" drops to finish exactly on my 2" mark for my last cut. That is how I use my cheat sheet and I use it religiously.

@SawyerTed,

   When I am making thin cuts like that I have my cheat sheet set up to leave a 1" dog board. I can cut as far down as a 3/4" but that is pucker time and anything else I skim the dog post and knock the set out of my blade.

[Hackeldam Wood Products]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOY_TH3gNAA




Here is a vid of simple set.  It is all I need for what I do and really speeds things up. Also very accurate. I try to figure the start in my head. If I end up with a odd thickness board at the bottom I use in my woodshop anyway.

[Beavertooth]

It just depends on what your looking for and your budget.  If you are looking for speed and high production no doubt about it you want the Accuset 2.   I have run my LT70 with Accuset 2 for 13 years now and I use every feature on it basically everytime I saw. Every feature is made to make your job a lot easier and a LOT faster.  My advice for anyone who gets an Accuset 2 is to read the manual on it to make sure you understand everything it will do and then use it to its full potential. If not you are just letting a lot of what you paid for go to waste. One thing that was not in my manual is the fact that you can get within 1/2" of any number and just hit the down arrow key and it will automatically go to the nearest whole number. Even some of the video walk thru's from Woodmizer on youtube don't show this option. I mentioned this in case anyone else who has it is not familiar with this option. Really helps if your trying to stop on a whole number that you do not have programmed in reference mode. The up down head movement is so fast its hard to stop precisely where you want it.  I had an LT40HD with no computer before the LT70 and kept a lot of measurements in my head but now I have gotten to lazy to do that. Hope I don't have to go back to that my brain would not be happy.  :D :D

[Lee Allen]

Thank you for all the replies. The video was very helpful.