iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Moving mills around

Started by macminn18, July 09, 2020, 01:32:17 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

macminn18

Still in the decision making process on what mill to purchase.  For the next 8 months, the mill will be used on weekends only at our lake home.  We won't be there, so I don't want to leave it out when we're not around. I have plenty of room in our pole building.  If I go with one without a trailer, how do I move it in and out of the pole shed?  I am looking at a tractor with a front end loader, I guess one more reason to buy that.

Another concern is the EZ Boardwalk I'm looking at, the leveling feet look a little tedious to level, etc.  Wonder if moving frequently that would get frustrating.

dgdrls

Are you committed to a band style mill??   If so I would think the EZ Boardwalk jr with the trailer package would work. Build a milling foundation roll it out of the pole barn set it up,      If you are not committing to a band, a swingmill would solve all your transport and storage challenges as well and. Breaks down quite tidy

D

farmfromkansas

I move my mill out of the shed to use it.  Not a big deal, I just hook onto the ball hitch with my skidsteer, drilled a hole in one of the forks for a ball, and pull the mill out of the shed, and around the yard to where I wish to mill.  I just jack the front end up to the proper height, take a level and lay on the mill bed, and jack up the opposite end jacks till it is level. Lay the level crosswise to level that way.  Just push the rest of the jacks down till they touch the ground, and you are ready to mill. Think my mill has 6 jacks on the bed, and one out front on the hitch.  I use them all.
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

JoshNZ

I'm sure you could make some kind of axle or dolly which you put under the bed somewhere slightly aft of the centre, and then some kind of hitch at the front for your loader. Either bolt a tow hitch directly to it or drill a hole for a pin or something. A length of RHS steel and board bolted together, with spindles and hubs on each end for the axle.


Gere Flewelling

I would suggest a trailer mounted model.  If you set up the mill the first time using a 4' level and get it level end-end and side-side, then purchase some of the stick on levels like they use on motor homes and attache them on each end of the mill in an area they won't get damaged and still be visible.  that way you can set your rear leveling stands on a piece of board to keep them from settling and use the front hitch jack to raise the unit up or down until your level indicators show you  being level.  I don't see an easier or faster way to accurately and consistently set up your mill.  Once you figure out what is needed for a pad thickness under each leg, you can bring it out to that spot and be sawing in no-time. 
Old 🚒 Fireman and Snow Cat Repairman (retired)
Matthew 6:3-4

Brad_bb

The problem with trailer mounted is that it's easier to steal.  Why can't you mill in the shed with doors open?  My mill is trailer mounted (LT15go), but I have a chain and a good lock through the Wheel spokes and around the axle.  I have a mega hitch Vault tongue lock on it, and it's in a locked building with a security system.  Still I don't feel secure enough.

Another option is to have the mill bed so that a small section is inside and it goes through the wall to the outside so most of your mill bed is outside.  The band mill head stays inside when not in use.  Make a special door you can close and lock around the mill bed.  Chain your mill head with a good lock for when you're not there.  And chain your mill bed down outside somehow to make it more difficult to steal a section etc.  It's not foolproof, but will discourage those thieves looking for easy pickings.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

SawyerTed

I have a neighbor who slides his mill on and off a utility trailer to move it.  He lifts the end opposite the head and backs his trailer under.  Then he uses forks on the FEL on his tractor to lift the head end and slides it on the trailer.  Unloading is the reverse.

I could see where a tilt trailer would make his process easier. 
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

TroyC

As for the legs on the EZ Boardwalk, it's not bad at all. I recently purchased the 40 with trailer package and set the mill up to use outside and put it back in the shop when finished. I leave wheels on it all the time. Setup with screw levelers takes 10 minutes or so. I used concrete blocks with timbers on top first couple times I set it up. I've since put 6 screw type jacks on it. Welded the jacks to cross pieces and bolted the crosspieces to the mill. Setup is probably 5 minutes or so. Mill is very sturdy on jacks. When done milling, I burn all my scraps and pull sawdust through the woods with boxblade so as to keep bugs at bay. Beetles are an issue in central Georgia! I use a tractor grapple to load mill and boards are waist high when cutting. I prefer the mill on jacks as the height of the mill does not require me to bend over to pick up milled lumber. Mill lives in a locked shop so theft is minimized. I also put two of those wheel dollys under the mill so I can slide it sideways in the shop.

homesteader shane









 I setup on every job. only about 15min. secret is in the heavy frame. built strong enough to minimize leveling 

Thank You Sponsors!