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How to Mill a Tree

Started by wstowe, December 21, 2020, 07:27:00 PM

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wstowe

Hello all,

I'll try to be as specific so you can answer better. 

I have a 34" and 22" red oak I want to mill. I'm no sure how best to slice it up. I imagine it will depend on what I want to do with it so I will explain. I will use it for a dinning room table, stair treads and possibly hand rail. Originally I was just going to slab it in varying thicknesses. But as I'm learning more I'm thinking I may want to be more particular and have some quarter sawn etc. 

I appreciate any help and hope to start a conversation and learn a lot. 

Thanks!

doc henderson

welcome.  there are threads on how to approach a log, and how to quarter saw.  some others will chime in.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

SawyerTed

 A YouTube search will find videos on various sawing methods including quarter sawing.
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

wstowe

My question is more of the best approach of milling the trees for intended projects. Should I slab it all at different end thickness? Square off one side so I can cut to desired width later? Would quarter dawn be good for my projects?


YellowHammer

The dinner table would normally take 8/4 finished thickness, or maybe 6/4 finished, the stair treads start at 6/4 and end at 5/4 generally, and the hand rail is generally laminated, 4/4 or monolithic 12/4.

The trouble is each project requires a different thickness of wood.  

I'd decide which project I wanted highest priority and mill up for that one.  Then as more logs come in, I'd check them off the list in order.  

Squaring cants and letting them sit is fine for mantles and crossties, but not the best approach for high quality wood because of the significantly increased surface and end checking.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

wstowe

The table and treads are my priority. My plan was to cut in slabs 6/4 or 8/4 slabs for the treads to leave enough room for processing and 10/4 for the table top sections. I'll have over  1000bf which is more than I need. Would like to sell some to recoup expenses and purchases equipment to process(planer). 

For selling, and the remaining wood I don't need, is there a best size to cut to?

Thanks!

YellowHammer

It depends on your market and how fast you want to move the wood.  4/4 air dries faster and sells quicker for a lower price.  8/4 takes longer to dry but generally sells for more.  
Green wood sells but for a lower price.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

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