pivoting chainsaw mount

[47sawdust]

I'm looking for ideas for a pivoting chainsaw mount.
I have a wagon running gear I'd like to convert to a log deck/cutting table.
I have a section of roller conveyor to mount on the wagon bed,then feed the logs and cut to 16'' lengths.
I've been to Utube University but was looking for info. from the bright ones here.
Thanks for your help.

Something similar to this-

Processing Firewood - YouTube

[sprucebunny]

For my brushcutter contraption I made a plate that mounts to the bottom of the saw out of a plastic cutting board. I had to drill a couple holes in the bottom of the saw and the bottom, flat part of the handle. Then you could use a strap hinge for a pivot.

If drilling holes horrifies you or there are no good attachment points, you could glue something on to the fins or what ever you find under there and screw /bolt to that or make a wrap-around thing that gripped the handle parts.

The trick being that with a chunk of plastic, you can drill mounting holes in the plastic, not the saw and UHMWPE plastic is way cheaper than saws  ;D

[mike_belben]

There is a vid of my limb processor on youtube that uses roller conveyor and a pivot saw. "CertifiedHoarder" is my channel 

The style of conveyor you posted is pretty good because the rollers are close.  The further apart they get the worse it is.  I may wrap mine in conveyor belting to improve the horrible cogging that a knob or a curved butt cut with grabbing edge creates.  It can be very hard to push and limits log size significantly.  


You want the bark and junk to fall straight through.. It will on full rung rollers but i dont know about those little channel casters.  So dont built it in a way that it loads up and jams. 



A 24" bar is plenty long to pivot by just boring a 3/8 hole through it ahead of the dogs to pivot on a double nutted post.  Anything a 24 wont reach is too big for manual conveyor.  


If you have a big power saw i suggest cutting on the push side from the bottom up especially if you have a long drop.  Up cutting will always drop flat and true.  Down cutting starts to curl as you cut and wants to flip down so you need more doodads to solve a problem that isnt a problem if you just start wity a big saw and cut up from botton to top.  

[47sawdust]

Mike,
Great advice ,thanks. I probably won't cut anything bigger than 16'' diameter with this arrangement.Larger than that
I will buck up on the ground.

I just checked out the video, looks great.
May need a close up pic. of the mount.
Send to my email if more convenient.
Best regards,
Mick

[mike_belben]

Really nothin to it.  Just a 3/8 bolt welded into a rigid stud at the end of the contraption. 

[47sawdust]

In the video I linked above the owner uses an "air piston" to activate his log clamp.
I am not familiar with them or how they work but it seems to work quickly and effectively.
Any enlightenment is appreciated.
Thanks

[mike_belben]

Theyre sorta like half way hydraulics except tends to use closed center valves.  You can use a hydraulic cylinder on air.. May need an inline oiler for long service life.  


You regulate speed with adjustable mufflers.  Solenoids or manual valves, much cheaper than hyd generally but doesnt convey the same amount of power as hyd.  Good for a log clamp on a fw processor or a circle mill setworks.  Maybe moving a wedge or log step but not a livedeck