Enclose existing porch on this barn?

[Don P]

That's where the engineering part comes in, he needs to design it as a "moment frame", which is actually a moment resisting frame. A rigid frame that resists rotation. In wood we can really only develop pin type connections. In steel the connection between two members can be designed to provide the same resistance to rotation that a brace provides in wood. If additional bracing is required it can usually be considerably smaller than in wood. None of this is intended to preclude the flying buttresses.

[Tom King]

I think I knew that Vet.  Was her name Baldwin?

[btulloh]

Blanchong. Originally from Ohio I'm told. Not sure if Blanchong is her married name or maiden name. No husband in the picture now.

[Walnut Beast]

A place like that around here with twenty acres would be 700k easy and on up. 

[GRANITEstateMP]

btulloh, was wondering if you made any decisions on your building?

[btulloh]

Definitely going to make the porch area into interior space. 800 sq ft of nice concrete in that porch will be more useful as expanded interior space. Probably leave the double doors inset though. Details to be worked out this coming week with architect/engineer on lateral bracing. I'd like to use Don P's suggestion on removing every other pole and adding steel to carry the roof load and provide the lateral bracing. That part might be done a bit later depending on steel, etc.  Move the tin and enclose the porch now, maybe have to use temporary bracing for the short term. 

I really need to get this barn ready to start moving machinery, etc as quickly as possible.  That's gonna require sealing existing floor, pouring remainder of floor, adding lighting and outlets. Need a lot of 220 in two different areas for welders, compressor, shop machines, etc.  Obviously need to do sll that before cluttering up the space with my stuff. 

Also going to add 20x20 concrete pad by rollup door and cover with a roof. Probably have to use steel posts and beams for that.



 

I also need to do something at the end with the barn doors. Add a pad, do some grading,  change some drainage a bit.



 

So that's where things stand. Decisions made but details and timing still need to be worked out.  Making progress!

I have little or no access between now and 10/17 when we close, but I have mist of the details I need to get the planning done.  

Oh, and there's the house I need to think about  . . .  but I guess barns come before houses for me.  lol

[Walnut Beast]

Absolutely get the concrete in. A sidewalk around the outside is very handy also. The doors on the end look nice but I would change it out to a Raynor big overhead door with opener. Probably don't need the side horse doors either 

[btulloh]

I'm pretty much with you WB. Except for that sidewalk around the outside.  Rollup door would certainly be better than the barn doors for my purpose. Kinda comes down to priorities and budget on that. It may have to wait.  The dutch doors definitely aren't necessary. I'll probably just fasten them shut though. Can't see taking them out but I can just pretend they're not there. 

If you're really set on the sidewalk, just set up a funding mechanism and I'll have sidewalks added. lol  

[btulloh]

Well things are finally getting started with the barn update.  Capturing most of the front porch area by moving the existing metal and windows over to the outside of the porch, which goes back to the original question here.  Meanwhile, the concrete was done to comple the rest of the floor inside.  4000 psi with fiber and sprayed with seal and cure at installation. All good for that part of the job.  



 

 

This was completed in early November and then I had a long pause before the real work started yesterday. Dividing into 3 sections with insulated partitions and insulating and sealing walls, sealing around all windows and doors, insulating ceiling. Electrical to be added, then covering walls and ceiling. Should give me some good spaces that are well insulated.  



 


 
Framing should be finished by early next week and the the first phase of insulation (spray foam and sealing windows) will start. Then rough electrical, skin the ceiling, and finish the rest of the insulation.  

It should move along pretty fast now if the ins. Contractor and electrician can fit it in - always a big question these days.

Mulling whether to seal the rest of the floor.  Concerned about making it slippery.  Don't think I want to pay the cost of two part epoxy.  Any good suggestions on a reasonably priced floor treatment?

[Don P]

Pool paint? I dimly remember that being the floor paint on a huge slab I worked on.

[WV Sawmiller]

   I think I would make a list of my storage needs and see how many of them are met and what is left to help decide it/what to do here.

    Since the number one priority for the design committee is to spend other member's money ( :) why not put a roll-up garage type door on each front opening and a fold up accordion wall between each bay so you can adjust as needed?

[btulloh]

lol lol  well yes, of course I expect there'll be plenty of input for spending money.  After all, we know the members here are prolific spenders of OPM!

WV, all thr space is pretty much allocated.  None of it goes to lumber storage other than lumber being used for current projects.  I'm thinking I'll need you to come down and build some bulk lumber storage sheds now that you've got that all figured out. 

Those two 8x8 openings in the partitions will get a hinged wall section with a walk door in the middle, BTW, so you won't need to spend my money on the rollup doors.  

Back to floor coating though- They put a simple sealer on my current garage floor fifteen years ago that wasn't super shiny, didn't seem to be slick to wet shoes, and held up fairly well to gas and oil.  (Gas left some marks, but not bad for 15 years.). Wish I knew the name of it.  All I really want is something to make it easier to clean up, especially grinding dust and such in the machinery bay. The middle section is where my woodshop goes, and a sealed floor helps with sawdust too.  I don't really need or want that fancy epoxy. 

[gspren]

While the concrete floor is being discussed I have a problem that you or others may have. When they poured the floor they used an abrasive saw to score the slab, common practice, now I see where the sharp edges are breaking maybe hastened by the small steel wheels on some of my stuff, is there anything to fill in the cracks to prevent that problem while still allowing the original purpose? The cracks are also a spot for dirt and dust to gather until the blower hits at the right angle.

[Don P]

Clean the crack, blue tape each side and polybutyl caulk it. That with a backer rod in the gap first, that is pretty much the control joint in big stores, etc.

[btulloh]

Don that is good information. Thanks.  I hope to try that out, but I really need to find a young helper to handle it.  I've been getting by ok by allowing the joints to fill up with grinding dust, dirt, swarf, sawdust etc.  Probably not the best solution, but installation is a breeze.  

Does the caulk solve the problem gspren has with the steel wheels?  I can see how those would be hard on those sharp concrete edges.  

[Don P]

Nothing is good around steel wheels :D.  

[Sedgehammer]

Don that is good information. Thanks.  I hope to try that out, but I really need to find a young helper to handle it.  I've been getting by ok by allowing the joints to fill up with grinding dust, dirt, swarf, sawdust etc.  Probably not the best solution, but installation is a breeze.  

Does the caulk solve the problem gspren has with the steel wheels?  I can see how those would be hard on those sharp concrete edges.  

Polyurea is a 2 part (side by side tubes) caulk that is pretty hard and durable, but it isn't as hard as the concrete of course, but it's use in industrial settings. Get a battery powered caulk gun, can rent them even, that'll help on those wisen'd arms

[gspren]

Nothing is good around steel wheels :D.  

I was looking yesterday and even in areas where I know the steel wheels haven't been the sharp edges of the concrete are still cracking. 

[btulloh]

Finished the exterior work enclosing parts of the porch and relocating windows. Left a nice 24' wide front porch in the middle which will be nice in the summer time for taking a break and also for some outside sanding or general dirty work. It's on the northeast side so it wii be a good shady, covered space in the summer heat. 

Next up is electrical and insulation. R49 in the ceiling, R19 for the walls.  2" of closed cell spray to start plus sealing around windows and doors.  The middle bay is 22x36 for my woodshop.  I'm thinking a mini-split will work well in that area.  Probably can get away with 18k btu considering all the insulation. 24k at most. Should be pretty economical to heat and cool the woodshop area. 




 

Inside, looking at the smaller of the new enclosed areas:


  



 

I apologize for the store bought framing lumber. No opportunity right now to saw my own, and it bugs me, but it'll all be covered up soon enough.  At least it's not from a big box store.  RC Goodwyn Bldg Supply in Powhatan. Good people with quality product. 

I sure am looking forward to getting the wood shop and the machinery shop set up. Lots of heavy stuff to move. Hopefully just a few weeks from now!   8)

[Walnut Beast]

Looks fantastic! Seems like your going ahead and getting it done the way you want it 👍