Leveling a portable sawmill long term?

[Stevenjohn21]

I have a 130max with the trailer which has 4 jacks on each side and I'm constantly having to adjust them to make everything level. The jacks are on concrete blocks which are on sandy soil.
  
I am thinking about pouring a concrete pad and then putting concrete anchors through the jack feet to keep everything solid since I don't plan on moving the mill. 
My question is, is the portable version notoriously harder to keep level? It seems the non portable version has a lot more leveling feet so it would be easier to make each bunk perfectly level. 
 If I pour a concrete pad I presume that will stop me having to constantly level it? 

[kelLOGg]

I had a 4" pad poured about 1.5 years ago and it has held up nicely. Max dia log is 32" and 20' long. No cracks in the concrete when flipping cants. I added 5 supporting posts between the mill beams and concrete in addition to the sawmill legs. It holds level much better than legs alone. Pics are available on my gallery. 

[Stevenjohn21]

I'd like to see your setup but it's not allowing me to view your gallery, maybe I'm too new!? 

[kelLOGg]

They weren't in my gallery after all but are now. 


 

 

 

[Walnut Beast]

Wheels off or deflated 

[jpassardi]

I have 6 - 12 x 12 oak timbers set parallel to the cross bunks which stays level for me. You'll want enough surface area to prevent pushing/vibrating them into the soil.
I put them cross, not parallel to the bed so sawdust, bark, etc can be removed/blown out.

[Den-Den]

Foundation requirements are very location specific. Shallow sandy soil over rock can not be compared to sandy surface with deep clay underneath.  Be wary of copying something that worked for others.

[jpassardi]

At the end of the day you shouldn't exceed the bearing capacity of the soil. With true sand the engine vibrations can  have more of an impact on settlement also. Shock loads from dropping logs and turning cants must also be considered. You need enough area (dunnage size and quantity) in contact with the soil. It does not necessarily need to be a complete slab.
Sand and gravel actually have a higher bearing capacity than silts and clays and this is one reason they're preferred for foundations. They are approximately as follows:
Sand: 2000 PSF
Silt/Clay: 1500 PSF
Clay: 1000 PSF
In addition, sand and gravel are more permeable and less susceptible to frost as the water will drain more freely. I see you're in Georgia so this unlikely a concern.
If you want to pay for a slab, go for it. If you'd rather not, put large enough cribbing in contact with the soil.

[Ljohnsaw]

I have fine "moon dust" soil with large (football to kitchen table sized) rocks.  I put my mill on 8x8 wood pads (12 legs) and that worked for several years.  Then I loaded a 20,000 log (48" dia x 35' long) and several legs sunk.  So I pulled everything out, scraped back to good soil again and laid out 5x9x48" timbers.


 

 

 
All is good now.  If you look closely at the near leg on the left of the last picture, you can see where I drilled a hole just through the timber and drove a 3/4" foundation stake.  That holds the timber in place and keeps the mill from sliding sideways when loading logs.  I did that on each leg on the outsides of the mill.

[Stevenjohn21]

Wheels off or deflated

Right now they are off because it was easier to level without them on.