Insulating a log cabin.

[Hilltop366]

I wonder if a two piece tapered shim would work, once the log was in place put one row in from one side and tack in place then go to the other side and put the top in until snug. It would save you from custom fitting every shim. If the shim was designed with very little taper it should stay in well, the bottom shim would be thick with only ¼" taper taking up most of the room and the top shim would thin. Once the walls have dried a while the shims could be snugged up again before inside chinking.

[Joe Hillmann]

I dont think that would work.  Because the top and bottom of the logs are no longer parallel the gaps between the logs also wont be.  Whereas a stacked set of shims will have a speceffic angle between top and bottom that wont change no matter how you slide them together.

[Hilltop366]

That could cause issues, I'm thinking it will be a long tedious job making individual sized shims for an entire cabin. (if I was reading one of your previous post correctly) My brain seems to go to "how can I make this easier" mode automatically. :D

Another idea I had was to make a guide jig to run a drill bit a little bit bigger than the gap between the logs so that you are cutting a little bit of wood off of both logs then use a dowel the same size as the drill bit for your shim. Thinking this would be done on the outside and stop before reaching the inside and cutting the shim short enough to cover it with chinking when done. One question I can see is will a 1¼" or 1½" dowel have enough bearing surface to do the job, they could be put closer together to reduce the load on each dowel.

[Stephen1]

Drill a 3-4 1/2" holes into all the logs using a jig so all the holes are in the same spot for each wall. Then drop them down over 1/2" threaded rod, maybe even a washer and nut every row or 2, tighten it all down and chink with permanent chink.  On second though just a big nut on top and bottom so you can tighten for a few years as the log wall is still going to shrink for a few years .

[Joe Hillmann]

I think the drill bit idea would probably work.  

My plan is to strech a line the length of the log where I want the front top of the shim to be.  Then use a level to mark the slope of the log.  From there I can cut the shim on a small bandsaw.

I planned to use a mason line but after thinking about it a dacron fishing line may work better.  I can strech it tighter, it will catch less wind and by being thinner it should be more accurate.

I dont think I need super accuracy.  Because with this method inaccuracies dont add up between layers.