Grinding rock

[JoshNZ]

I had to dig a bit of the shroud inside the guard out too from memory, didn't quite fit the wheel for some reason.

[whittle1]

Started with the old ltaga yep.

I just pulled a motor off a chainsaw grinder sharpener, was cheaper to buy the unit and pinch the motor than source a motor. Redrilled for mounting holes and ziptied start capacitor directly to it, that was idea for testing anyway and I've never changed it.

The cam timing isn't difficult really, mark where it starts to drop into the tooth and take some off there so it drops further, and quicker, then when you wind the height up to make it about right the rest of the profile that use to stroke the back of the tooth will be higher, and clear of the tooth altogether. Trial and error but pretty safely yeah. Polish with a flapdisc afterwards get it as square as possible so the bearing is happy

I have an Oregon chain saw sharpener that doesn't have a capacitor on the motor. Is that needed because of the heavier grinding rock? How do you size the capacitor. Like I said before this is some great info that I will probably do at some point. Right now I have 3 different blades 10, 7 and 4 degrees. I will need to settle on one so not spending $600 on wheels. 

[JoshNZ]

You'll prob find it does have a capacitor tucked up in the housing for the wheel head there somewhere. Look for a cover with screws. If it doesn't then you don't need to worry, I suppose it could be brushed. (I wouldn't recommend tearing down an Oregon sharpener for it $$!)

Yeah that is a bit of a problem having multiple profiles. Standardise, or start saving haha. CBN wheels are wildly expensive to get over to NZ here but I'm still sticking with it. They do a way better job with less trouble and setup. The older I get the more I'm happy to exchange money to get back my time and this is certainly a win on that front.