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Simple and effective

Started by ohsoloco, October 22, 2005, 01:59:29 PM

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ohsoloco

I really enjoy seeing everyone's pictures 'round here, and now that I've figgered out this pic posting thing (again  ::) ) I thought I'd share a little.  This is my very simple log deck.  When I first moved my mill out to my house, I was loading logs onto the mill one at a time with the skidsteer.  It was really hard to see exactly where the forks and back side of the logs were, so I decided to make a very simple deck.  I had two large 8' knotty spruce logs lying around, so I milled them into 12x12's and set them on some stone perpendicular to the mill.  I left just enough room so I can comfortably walk beside the carriage and clear the cants.

With this setup I can load anywhere from three to maybe eight logs depending on the size.  When I'm ready to put one on the mill I simply set some short pieces of sign post running from the cant to the frame rails and roll the log onto the mill with my cant hook.  This saves me from running the loader after every log, and also saved the mill from being torn up more than usual...one little slip of a foot can make a huge impact when trying to load a large log.






I also promised kevjay some pics of this several weeks (or maybe a month) ago  :D

Ron Wenrich

What we used on the old hand mill was a couple of hickory poles.  We stripped the bark and had a lot smaller contact area than with a sawn post.  We put them on top of log chunks to bring them up to height. 

We could put about 20 logs on that deck.  We would just roll them ahead with a cant hook.  For those that didn't want to roll, we could slide real easy.  If it needed a little less friction, we just coated the poles with some diesel. 

Used it daily for about 6-7 years.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

IL Bull

Are they far enough apart so you can still load one on the mill with your skid steer?
Case Skid Steer,  Ford Backhoe,  Allis WD45 and Burg Manual Sawmill

JP

Hi Ohsoloco:
you are 100% on the best way to load the mill (even thou I take the short cut and drop em om from the forks now and then //)

here are a couple ideas th help--first cut a notch in the end on the way to hold the extension flush so it cant get pushed off and 2 --drill some holes along the ways for a pin to turn agenst if the log is angled-- also as a stop to hold logs away if required// JP
see last pic. at:   http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4231442&a=31929447
Norwood lm2000,Newholland 30 hp tractor, log carrier/winch, log arch  JP

ohsoloco

Ron, I never thought of using poles, I guess I was wondering how I would keep them from rolling away from the mill  :D  Something milled on three sides would work nice, or even one for that matter...that round top would make for sliding one end of a crooked log easier. 

Bull, they're only far enough apart that I can get the forks in between them.  I mill a lot of six foot (and sometimes shorter) logs, so I had to keep them fairly close together.  When I positioned the mill I made sure I had enough room on the other side of the mill to get the skidsteer into so I could load from the other side.  There's a large walnut crotch sitting on a pallet right now that's too short, so that will be my first try loading from the other side.  I'm waiting until I clean up the other sawdust b/c I have to immediately burn the walnut sawdust so the dog doesn't get into it  ;)   

JP, great ideas  :) I usually have enough leverage nudging a log with the cant hook end on the ground.  To keep them from rolling I use a 4x4 or 6x6 set across the deck.  I'll definitely have to come up with something like those notches.  I've had several logs fall in between the mill and deck b/c those short pieces of sign post slipped off the cants  :(  Couple quick cuts with the chainsaw and a few pops with my framing chisel and mallet should do the trick.


Ron Wenrich

Just put a couple of pieces of split firewood next to the poles to stop them from rolling.  Or you could dig them in.  I just nailed a couple of boards on the log ends that we used.  Besides, you get some weight on them and they don't move.

As for distance, you can put 1 @ 0', another @ 3', another @6', then 10', then 14'.  Your middle 3 would catch an 8 footer, your 1st 4 would catch a 10 footer, your last 4 would catch a 12 footer, etc.  Figure out a spacing that would match your needs and still be able to drive over.  You don't need all your logs to be even-ended, do you?
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

TexasTimbers

Thanks for the pics ohsoloco. Since we last "talked" I have gotten a little fancy. My log deck is steel, and ready to accept hydraulics when I get to it  next year, or the year after..... or...... well, it IS a vast improvement over trying to manipulate them with the skiddy, even if I never get hydraulics added. I can tell you tho, that a log turner will definately be the first thing I add even before the live deck.
Thanks for the pics. I'll reciprocate when I have something worth while to show.
KJ.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

ohsoloco

Sounds like you already do  ;)

Ron, I didn't get any extentions with my mill, so I can currently only cut up to 12' logs.  The two cants that I have set up right now work for all of my logs so far ('cept that 3' crotch).  I may have to add another cant if I get an extension for the mill, but that will probably be a while  ::)  Those spruce cants are pretty light and I could just flop them out of the way if I needed to, or use the skidsteer to shove 'em out of the way. 

JP

Hi Ohsoloco:  Here is a pic. of a homemade ext. mine is 6' could have been 8' at same cost (about 50.00$)  JP

Norwood lm2000,Newholland 30 hp tractor, log carrier/winch, log arch  JP

ohsoloco

JP, that's a nice extension ya got there.  I noticed that in another thread, and have been meaning to ask you about that.  Looks like it might be oak  ???  How did you connect it to the rest of the mill?  I'd really like to hear more about it  :)

JP

Ohsoloco:   The extension is of 2 1/2"x 8" oak with 1 1/2" angle matching the mill angle.  I took off the 2' pieces at the end of the mill and ran the new 8' angle iron 2 ' on the mill and bolted it down. bolted the oak with 5" x 3/8 lags and set the middle "bunk" up to take a piece of 2' angle and be level with the mill bunks-- welded on little stops and a pc on the bunk as shown   JP

Norwood lm2000,Newholland 30 hp tractor, log carrier/winch, log arch  JP

ohsoloco

Thanks, JP.  I didn't even notice that you bolted the angle to the saw frame.  Any problems with it moving/flexing much?  It also looks like you're not under cover (like me)...is it staying tight out in the weather  ???  $50 sounds a lot better than $500  ;)

JP

 I have only made the one beam so far using the ext. I do push the mill out on it often when cutting 12s,16s, without problems, nothing moves --I painted the top edge and should paint it all but prob. wont get to it. I suspect it will last as long as I do//   JP  ::)
Norwood lm2000,Newholland 30 hp tractor, log carrier/winch, log arch  JP

ohsoloco

Is the angle iron rail the only thing tying the two together  ???

JP

Yes-- I have made up some tie plates but dont seem to need them

after making the 24 footer I checked the level of the new and old and it was the some as when I put it on  JP
Norwood lm2000,Newholland 30 hp tractor, log carrier/winch, log arch  JP

ohsoloco

Nice...I really have to see about making one of those. 

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