Trailer too high

flip · August 15, 2007, 12:00:19 PM

A little more progress.

A little notch for tire clearance.

jokers · August 16, 2007, 04:32:43 PM

Quote from: flip on August 07, 2007, 05:48:57 PM
We have some excellent front end /suspension guys here at work. What they tell me is that a radial tire, like an LT truck tire will last longer and carry as much or more than the tires that typically come on trailers.

You have to be careful here Flip and make sure that your terms are clearly defined as in LT tires versus "tires that typically come on trailers", are your work buddies referring to the lightweight C rated tires that you often find on those $1500-2000 "car haulers" or are they referring to the tires that typically are installed on real equipment trailers? There is a big difference and it`s highly relevant if you are planning on carrying much weight on your trailer.

The flip side to this scenario are the LT truck tires that are very commonly C load rated and which will not carry the weight that a true trailer tire will carry. There is a huge range of capacities amongst LT tires so you can`t just assume that since they say LT on the sidewall that they are adequate for your intended purpose. Check the load rating of your particular tires to ensure that they will carry the intended load and keep them adequately aired up.

Later we can talk about sidewall capacity and how it affects you when towing a heavily loaded trailer.

flip · August 16, 2007, 04:41:36 PM

When I refer to the LT series we usually see and sell "E" range.

The tires that come on a similar sized trailer is what I use for tire comparison. The tires on heavier gooseneck or pintle equipment trailers are nearer to a heavy truck. The tires on most car trailers are junk compared to a good "E" series LT radial tire.

jokers · August 16, 2007, 10:26:44 PM

Quote from: flip on August 16, 2007, 04:41:36 PM
When I refer to the LT series we usually see and sell "E" range.

The tires that come on a similar sized trailer is what I use for tire comparison. The tires on heavier gooseneck or pintle equipment trailers are nearer to a heavy truck. The tires on most car trailers are junk compared to a good "E" series LT radial tire.

I agree wholeheartedly with your comparative assessment of the tires Flip, most people don`t look that deeply at them.

jrokusek · August 17, 2007, 01:20:27 AM

This is timely. I need 15" tires for a 3500 pound rated utility trailer. What EXACTLY should I be looking for? I also have a boat trailer with 15" tires on it, but it looks like the guy who owned it before me used car tires. Seems like the sidewalls "squat" a lot.

flip · August 17, 2007, 08:36:04 AM

The highest load capacity you can find that will fit under your fenders. If you can find an LT tire in a "D" or "E" load rating you will probably have more tire load capacity than your trailer is rated at. Check out some of your local tire dealers and see if they have some slightly used take-offs you can get cheap. A 235/75R15 is a fairly common tire size and is what I have on my other trailer. I have had about 6,000 on it in two oak logs and it made it home without blowing BUT I would not dare try it again ;)

jokers · August 17, 2007, 09:09:38 AM

Even D rated tires can surprise you when you think they are rated high enough, check the sidewall load rating at a certain inflation and then keep the tires inflated to that value.

Special trailer service tires are made and that is what I use on my trailers, not truck tires although a heavy enough truck tire should do the job. As told to me by the manager of a very large commercial tire center, trailer service tires also have a heavier sidewall, 10 or 12 plies, to help stabilize the trailer by removing sway inducing sidewall flex and to prevent bead leakage if the tire is scuffed sideways in a very sharp turn. Underinflation can literally be a killer of both your tires and you, or an innocent on the highway that you run into because of a tire failure. Using cheaper, non-trailer tires on a heavy trailer is false economy.

jrokusek · August 18, 2007, 01:38:05 AM

Gotcha. Thanks for the info!

rebocardo · August 18, 2007, 03:34:51 PM

Hey, that notching looks okay!

> free to me-as well as being LT.

Good enough for testing and light loads!

Are you going to mount the spare at the front of the bed or put a tool box there?

I know one thing, with a heavy trailer like that, I would put in one of those gee-whiz electric jacks if I had the money :-D

wiam · August 18, 2007, 10:06:11 PM

I just moved the springs above the axles on my trailer. This lowered it by about 8". I left the flats on the axle and welded new ones on the other side. Then I had to cut out part of my deck. :

but it is worth it to have the trailer lower.

Will

DanG · August 20, 2007, 12:33:28 AM

When you're buying those heavy duty tires for your trailers, spend the extra couple of bucks for metal valve stems. When you're running 50+ psi, with the ordinary rubber ones, the valve stem becomes the weak point. I've had more than one flat because a rubber valve stem blew out when I hit a pothole.

thecfarm · August 20, 2007, 08:26:28 AM

When I had the metal valve stems on my truck the guy would say,"No need to replace them",when I was getting new tires.With the rubber ones that's the first thing they do when the tire is changed,pull out the valve stem.