Jeff and Tammy's Property. Kevin takes down a dangerous tree.

[Kevin]

Gary;
We could have just felled it in the direction it was leaning.
It worked out better in this case because it really shows how important the holding wood in the hinge is and also showing  that pulling the tree with a rope doesn't mean it's always going to go where you want it to.
Driving wedges in on both sides as the tree progresses ahead would also help in preventing the tree from falling sideways but there's a huge risk in standing under a tree and driving wedges into a tree that's this far gone.
There's just too much risk that a limb could be jarred out of the top and land on your head.
You really don't want to be near a tree that's this bad as it's going over.
If those dead branches hit anything up above as the tree is going over then someone at the bottom might be wearing them.
The only safe way to prevent this from falling sideways is to place a holding line on it.

[OneWithWood]

If you were to just fall the tree in the direction of lean because you did not have a rope and capstain; how would you dislodge the widow makers before hand?

[beenthere]

Any clear shots (pics) of the capstan winch?  ..or did I miss them along the way? 

I'm wondering (hindsight) if one has the winch and the rope "shooter" available, that just pulling the top dead limbs off, and possibly just pulling the dead tree over wouldn't be the safest. Avoid getting under it with a chainsaw altogether.  If a good pull doesn't do it, then make a chainsaw open-face notch, retreat and pull again. Just speculation.

The method was a good education. thanks

[Kevin]

One, it's all part of the complete felling package.
A rope and throw weight aren't that expensive.
I would have to suggest not cutting the tree with a chainsaw if you couldn't dislodge the loose stuff.

Been,
You can buy a continuous rope puller (less expensive) and use a mechanical advantge when required.
Leaving too much wood in the cut is going to create a lot of stress in your bull line and winch.
If you do a google search on GRCS (good rigging and control system) you should find some information on it.

[Bill E]

Hi Kevin,

In reply #45 you mentioned using a holding line to ensure the tree would fall in the intended direction.

I can see how a line from the side would help get the tree moving in the right direction (or keep it from going the wrong one) -- but once the tree starts going, wouldn't you have to release the line to prevent it from pulling the tree to the side the line is on?  If so, how would you do that?

Thanks to you and Jeff for this thread!

Bill

[Kevin]

Bill;
There are two methods that can be used, I'm just on my way out the door but I'll describe them later today.

[Roxie]

That was fascinating!     My favorite part is the running away and heavy breathing.   My other favorite thing was the look on my secretary's face when she heard a chain saw running in my office.   :D

[Ron Scott]

Well Done tutorial !! A good review for all tree fallers. I'm sure Jeff will have more such paper birch to practice on. ;)

[Kevin]

The first method is setting a rope in the top of the tree, it can be set at the same time the pull rope is being set using the same throw line.
You stand well off to the side and anchor a carabiner, figure eight or similar rope braking method and use the rope as a tether to hold tight or allow the holding rope to run.
In this picture the figure eight is on the left or a simple but effective Munter hitch attached to a carabiner on the right can be used to act as a rope brake.

[sawguy21]

 Thanks Jeff and Kevin, this thread has been very informative, the great pictures really help. I sell climbing equipment and am quite new to it. I finally know what the figure 8 is used for. 8)

[Kevin]

The second method is using a hold line that is secure and follows the tree to the lay.

You measure the length of line from it's anchor point to where it's attached to the tree.
Then measure the height above the hinge where the line is fixed to the tree.
You take these two measurements and where they intersect on the ground is where the tree will fall.

Three things to remember, the slack should be removed from the rope,there can't be any trees in the way blocking the free fall of the rope and the holding rope must be in line with the hinge.
The rope can't be fore or aft of the hinge.



Don't stand on the side of the rope in which the tree is falling.

[Max sawdust]

Nice Nice Nice 8)
Thanks for all the effort in making this an educational event.  Plenty of dead White Birch with the drought in the UP and WI northwoods makes this a potentially life saving education for many people.
Me like to hook the ole Farmi on and give them a good shaking.  ;D  Dem dead Birch give me a chill, which is my gut instinct on staying alive ;) ;)

I got several of dem darn things hanging out over my sawmill. This thread reminds me I should take them out before they take me out with those water logged limbs 40' up that fall without warning

Thanks again,
Max

[OneWithWood]

Kevin, thanks for the tip.  As usual you are spot on with the advice.  I ordered a throw line, weight, line and storage bags for both yesterday.  That big shot looks like fun but for now I am going to press my old recurve bow into service and see what I can do with that.

I have a number of trees that have been blown into adjacent trees with root balls still attached.  Any advice you could give on bringing these down safely would be much appreciated.

[Kevin]

You can get by with throwing the weight by hand also, the problem comes in when there's a lot of brush on the ground then it becomes difficult to swing the line .
By flaking the line into a plastic pail it will keep it from getting tangled in the brush on the ground.
With about three feet of line you can get a decent swing and get up about sixty to seventy feet depending on the weight of the bag.
The weight for the big shot being used here was 10oz. , 12oz. makes a good weight to throw by hand.
The method I use is to tie a slip knot leaving about two to three feet to the bag.
You hold and swing the line by the knot.





I would suggest using an 8 to secure the line to the weight.