Changing controls in a dump truck

[Snag]

I have a 1990 chevy 3500 1ton dump truck.  The controls to engage the pto and dump the box are two seperate plunger style cable handles.  First push in clutch, pull up lever # 1.  Then pull up lever #2 to dump.  The problem is the cables are constantly a struggle to pull out and push back in due to the cable and somewht infrequent use.  Anyone know of a conversion kit that might be available to put in some sort of better (easier to use) controls?  Should I just replace the cables?  Maybe they make a higher quality/less rust resistant cable nowadays?  Any help is appreciated.

[sawguy21]

 Correct me if necessary but I believe there is a device called a 'step down' motor that might work. A couple of solenoids would allow reversing. Some members are likely using them on mills.

[stonebroke]

I just bought a 1970 f600 dump truck. One of the cables was sticky, The other had been replaced. I unhooked the cable from under neath and pulled it all the way out. I then cleaned it and put ir back in with wd40. when i got it working very well I pulled it back out and neverseized the whole thing. Works like a dream. It is called maintence.

Stonebroke

[beenthere]

Snag
First I'd try would be RustReaper. From what I've heard (and experienced myself), I'd bet that will solve your problem. Much better than WD40 ever wanted to be.. ;D ;D
(use the WD40 to remove stickers).

See:
RustReaper

[Burlkraft]

Ya could put a Muncie Power Tower in it. Bigger trucks use air to engage the PTO, but you could use an electric one. The tower comes with a really nice lever to raise and lower the box. We've installed a bunch of them, and guy's love 'em......It mounts on the floor and is about 10" high or so, putting the controls right at yer fingertips...... ;) ;) ;) There's also extra space on there to mount other stuff like an electric brake controller or light switches....

Of course ya never said anything about price......... :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\

An electric set up like that ain't cheap...... : : :

[WH_Conley]

And then there is always the hole cut in the floorboard with the two sticks sticking up and the carpet cut to fill in the holes. :D  Guess we are talking about the opposite ends of the spectrum ;D.

[dail_h]

   Usta use air preasure to blow oil through the skidder cables,,,,,,,,,,,,,take a piece of heater hose,or somethong that will stand preasure,clamp it on one end of cable fill with oil clamp other end to valved air line,blow till she flows

[DanG]

No use to go to a lot of trouble.  Like Beenthere says, put a few drops of RustReaper on it.  It'll work like new in no time.

[Snag]

Thanks for the input. 

Beenthere & DanG - excellent suggestion.  I actually did that last night and broke them free.  Only problem is I have gone through this before.  Rust Reaper has always saved me, but it keeps happening.  If I can get it to stay loose, that would be great without spending the money.  Any way to keep them free?  I have too much on my plate to tear the tops apart and drip oil every week.  Just tough when they dont get frequent use.  Boy, that rust reaper is awesome stuff though.......

Bulkraft - exactly what I was wondering about.  I will look those up.  From the sound of it I wont like the price though.

[Snag]

Bulkraft- cant seem to find em.  can you point me somewhere?  I have found the air ones but not electric.....  Probably wont end up with one though.  new cables are probably pretty cheap

[Furby]

I think if it was me and I've tried what you already have and was still having problems, I'd get some white grease in a spray can and shoot it in the cable slide as best I can.
From both ends if possible.
As soon as you spray it in, move the cable around to work it in as far as possible before it sets up.

[stonebroke]

snag

Disconnect the cables at the bottom and pull them all the way out, You might have to straighten the ends a little . Them put Never Seize on them as you put them back in and they will stay free for a long time if not forever.

Stonebroke

[Snag]

stonebroke - I have reservations about doing that.  How long ago did you do it?  My experience with neverseize is that it does get gummy and dirt likes to collect in it.  May work great, just wondering how long ago you did it....  If it works and stays, i'm all for it.  Thanks for the suggestion.

[Slabs]

Some 30 years (and more) prior to the vintage of your truck:

1. there were no carpets in dump trucks.

2. the two levers sticking up through the hole in the floor went to solid rods that connected to the PTO adapter and the hydraulic valve respectively.

If the lubrication problem can't be conquered, rods and levers might be a cheap solution depending on where your hydraulic valve is located.

[rebocardo]

Slabs, makes a good point about what works best and the reason.

The person that posted about using anti-seize has the best and cheapest solution I use for cable stuff.  You can use the Permatex grey stuff (GM), I prefer the copper high heat stuff if available. Though I have used both.

You can go higher tech. with electric motors, BUT, being in a salt enviroment and $80 per pull off motor (you can get them mail order from places) it will be more expensive in the long run. Plus, you have to match the motor power (torque inches) to what the hydraulic valve will tolerate without breaking it. Or go with ones that have adjustable stop points. Those are available from places like Godfather Customs.

Which is why cable is nice, instant feedback without breaking, fairly reliable, cheap.

You can buy stainless steel cable (1/8) and insert it into a nylon tube within a steel casing/nomex type housing (you can use parking brake cables from a Ford van if under 6 feet ) and swag your own ends on. Though if I was going to hack something in, I would tend to go with a speedometer cable housing from a van (nylon insert) and insert 1/8" ss cable through that. With your light use, it will last a long time.

I bought my swagger at Home Depot and it is good for up to 3/16 cable and has met my needs for doing light duty cable stuff and making pulley systems for decks and such. I wouldn't use it on anything winch related though, example, making loops for hooks.

If the cable casing is enclosed from one end to the other what you might try is two things.

1) Taking the plastic cap off inside the cab around the cable and flooding it with PB Blaster until it dripped out the other end under the truck on a semi-regular basis.  Just don't put grease on the cable.

2) Or using an air powered grease gun filling the tube from the top with speedometer, blue wheel bearing grease, or the pink marine (poly) lube until it came out the other end (never tried this last one #2 myself). Depending on how much room there between the cable and casing.

I have never tried this next suggestion, though I will bounce it off you. Get stainless steel plastic coated cable and run it though an open steel conduit to provide the stiffness, swag your ends on as needed. Maybe a loop on the hydraulic end and a steel threaded insert on the cab end knob.

 

[stonebroke]

Snag

I did it about three months ago. On your control cables you will have very little problem with dirt because almost all of it is protected. I have done it on other cables years ago and had no problem.

Stonebroke