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Timberframe Walls

Started by witterbound, November 21, 2007, 09:45:36 AM

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witterbound

I know all the big timberframe companies recommend SIPs for walls.  For a do-it-yourselfer SIPs are intimidating.  In the old days I assume timberframes were infilled in between the post and beams, and those homes have lasted a long time.  Does anyone infill today?  If so, is it simply adding 2x4 studs in the walls and finishing it like a typical stick built home? If you put the tyvek and siding outside the posts and beams, it seems to me like you would avoid problems of having your timbers exposed to the weather.

Does anyone have any experience using any other kind of wall system?  If so, can you explain to me how it worked?  For example, would I do it in this order from the inside out 1) sheetrock, 2) 2x4 lattice pattern (if so, what spacing do I use), 3) foam insulation panels between lattice pattern, 4) tyvek, and 5) siding. 

raycon

Pretty common to build a 2x4 wall frame outside the timber frame itself. The 2x4 frame gets the insulation,dry wall,wiring, etc.
Lot of stuff..

Joel Eisner

That is what we did.  We set the frame 3.5 inches inside the conventional deck and then put together 2x4 exterior walls with sheathing on them which were nailes into the subfloor and the timbers.  The only extra thing you need to do is add extra 2x4's at the timbers so you have a spot to attach drywall.  We also filled the 2x4 cavities behind the timbers with insulation before the walls went up.  You can also attach drywall to the timbers and then put the walls up, wire and plumb the place and then sheath it.  That seemed like too much work and it might throw the inspectors for a loop (in addition to the timber frame).

Joel
The saga of our timberframe experience continues at boothemountain.blogspot.com.

witterbound

Thanks.  That makes a lot of sense. 

Dakota

This is a picture of a model of my cabin.  Putting the framing for the windows outside the main timberframe makes it easy to install your windows and put insulation in.


Dakota
Dave Rinker

xtenon

We build just one or two frames a year and are sometimes asked (when the job is local) to take on the rough enclosure.  We've settled on what Joel has described.  The wall framing is stood off the frame 3/4" (with small spacers at the spike locations) to accomodate later application of 5/8 wallboard from inside.  This is then sheathed with 2" of rigid foam.

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