Newbie with dumb question

[Magicman]

Majic, can you explain that "bottom board" thing? I have carved up a few logs, but I feel like I am not maximizing the boards per log.

RD

The old sawmillers called the last board which was left after the log was sawed the "dog board".  This board would vary in thickness.

When I saw with the WM, the closest that I saw to the deck is 1".   So if I'm sawing 1" lumber, I want the "dog board" to be 1" also.  This only can happen if you start cutting the cant at the exact height that will allow each board to be 1" + the kerf and arrive at the bottom with a 1" board.  If you are cuting 6/4, you have to start cutting the cant so that each board is 6/4 and the "dog board" is also 6/4.

That's why I said that you should always aim for the bottom board.  With Setworks, I have a cheatsheet that tells me where my starting point is for various thicknesses of lumber.  My cheatsheet also covers splitting a cant for 2X4's, 2X6's or a combination of them.   Folks with newer systems can just program that in and the computer determines the starting point.

Hope all of this makes sense.....

[MotorSeven]

Ahh, thanks. I have been trying this with some success. I have bumped the magnetic quarter scale in the middle of a log....arggg
RD

[backwoods sawyer]

Ahh, thanks. I have been trying this with some success. I have bumped the magnetic quarter scale in the middle of a log....arggg
RD

That is better then bumping the up lever in the middle of the cut. But if you do give it some gas to bring it out of the cut.;D

[Banjo picker]

I would practice hitting a 5 " face at 88-9 ft for pines or any demension or a 6 x 6

The five inch face is understandable....but the rest is just about as clear as mud.  Tim

[Chico]

Basically you should always shim in low grade on the inside not outside of a log  the 5@6 gives a good clean 2x4 the 6@6 can yeilds a select IF your sawing for commercial grade it's really 3@5 on a clear faces that any clearer More grade more$
Chico
If all you got is low grade and your cutting all pallet ties timber etc it makes no diff but It does on the better logs imo
Chico

[Magicman]

Ahh, thanks. I have been trying this with some success. I have bumped the magnetic quarter scale in the middle of a log....arggg
RD

Without searching back and finding where I originally used the "aim for the bottom board" phrase, I'll admit that I probably threw a lot of LT40 Setworks stuff out that doesn't apply to mills that only have a sliding or magnetic scale.  The same principle applies if you can move the scale up and down.  That way, if you want to cut 1" lumber and have the dog board 6/4, then move the scale up until the "0" is 6/4 above the deck.  Then just follow the scale and when you reach "0" you'll have your 6/4 dog board.

In time, you'll bump a lot of stuff, and do a lot of "bad things"...... :D

[Warren]

diaedy,

reading the books wont hurt.  but to truly "understand" it, you gotta experience it.  and the only way to get experience is to do it.   the LT15 is a good mill to start learning the basics.   if (when!) you choose to move up to a bigger mill, everything you learned on the LT15 will carry over as well.  and you will truly appreciate hydraulics !   :D :D :D

-w-

[mayor]

Here's a few hints for starters!
1. Dont saw thru mud or dirt in the bark!!!!!
2. Dont saw thru mud or dirt in the bark!!!!!
3. Roll a log on and cinch it down....now then.....raise the saw above the log and measure down too the mark where you want too begin your cut  (From the blade too the cut)....then without moving up or down...run the saw down to the other end and measure down the same too see where the blade will exit the log!   I ruined a few logs when I first started cutting by not judging this correctly.......with practise, you'll get profficient with position of the log on the carriage.  Sometimes its necessary too raise one end or the other and place a shim under the log!.  Some of the larger mills does this automatically.
4.  Dont saw thru mud or dirt in the bark!!!!!.
5.  Watch the dogs......dont run your saw into the log dogs......make sure they are down out of the way of the blade.  (When you do this the first time...you'll remember this!!!! hehehehe....)
6.  Get youself a couple of good "cant hooks".......dont use your back too lift on the logs...they will win every time!!!......use cant hooks too roll them and a lever too lift the ends up when you need too shim.   Our old LT 40 had the winch too load logs with where you ran the cable out over the log and back too the mill.....it was slow but it never got hurt or thru its back out!.
7.  Dont saw thru mud or dirt in the bark!!!!!.
8.  Dont wait until the blades are dipping and diving and bogging the engine too change them......they wont last as long as you think when sawing before they are in need of sharpening and setting.....so get the sharpener and setter and learn how too use them correctly.
9.  Dont saw thru muc or dirt in the bark!!!!!.
10.  When in doubt...dont do it!.......If your not sure...find out first!..........and dont saw thru mud or dirt in the bark!.

Have fun!!!!!

[WDH]

I take it that you were trying to say not to saw thru mud or dirt in the bark??   ;D.

Well, if that is what you were trying to say, then well said  :D :D.

With the LT15, there is no de-barker unless it is you.  I wash the mud and dirt off my logs before sawing using a water hose and nozzle.  This can increase blade life in the log by a third.

[Magicman]

Don't forget the wire brushes.  I use the yellow handled ones from the WallyWorld paint department.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday 
First off Welcome to the Forum Mate  ;) ;D 8) 8) Im another of there's never a Stupid question crowd  ;) ;D But you can get a stupid answer depending on who your asking every now and then Mate    ??? :P : ;) :D :D :D :D

Jeez James (fish ;) ) Its Nice to be Counted in with such a Top Bunch of Blokes Mate    ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) ;) Who's this trepidation bloke  ??? he sounds cautious and handy  ??? I dunno  ;) :D :D :D

Likes being already said everyones coverd everything i woulda said  ;) with boarding off you can make printed out cheat sheet that allows for start hight thickness and kerf its pretty simple to make one up and you can fit about 4 sizes onto one a4 sheet and get it laminated and just hang it on the mill for quick reference  ;)

Another thing to add is when your sawing your first few logs make it the rough ones any stuffups arnt any huge loss then ;)but like Dad said to me when i first started sawing You cant realy make any mistakes in sawmilling  you can either just recut it or use it for somthing else and the problems solved  ;)  ;D :D :D

Just get into it and have some fun and get the job done  Mate   ;) ;D 8) 8)

Plus I think starting on a manual mill is the way to go for most sawyers as it gives you time to perfect your own sawing patterns and ways of doing things as i reckon there would'nt be too many of us that do things exactly the same in this game Mate  :D 8)

With keeping logs clean for bandsaws  I use a 3000 psi washer on the dirty stuff but if its just the odd log i use a small 5lb husky axe it dosnt take long to knock off the dirty bit on most logs  a log wizard planer head att for a csaw is another good one but you would want it fitted to a saw full time  ;)

James P you will get your mill tuned in the way you like soon enough mate ive got every faith in your ability  ;) Hell you basicly built the mill from scratch Mate  ;) ;D ;D 8)   

Have a good one

Regards Chris

[nas]

Who is Trepidation?

I thought there were no dumb questions ;) :D
Nick(The guy with the dumb answers ;D)

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

I See Im not the only one to ask  Nas  ;) :D :D :D :D :D :D
Mum's been telling me for years  that sacasim is the lowest form of whitt  But it is Bloody funny most of the time   ;) :D :D

Regards Chris