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Timberjack 230-What to watch for?

Started by madmari, November 05, 2010, 07:54:16 PM

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madmari

I am buying a TJ 230, standard trans, Detroit 3-53. She's a '73, but tight and well cared for.
What are problems to watch for?
Any manuals out there free to look at- Maintenance?

I'm a worrier.....
I know why dogs stick thier head out the car window.

timberjackrob

madmari i have a 208 tj of about the same year it has been very reliable just keep a check on all the fluids trans,shuttlebox,transfercase,winch,differentals all are seperate and need to be checked indivually hyd fluid tank in locatted behind front grill and has a filter inside it check the oil regularly as detroits are notorious leakers other than that might want to check planetarys after a little use to make sure they are running cool i had to rebuild one onetime when inoticed after running through a mud hole and got wet it was steaming a little ever since then ijust lay my hand on them occasionally to make sure they are cool and maybe check all the u joints to make sure they are tight
208 timberjack, woodmizer lt28,case 455 trackloader with gearmatic winch,massey 4710, ford f250s ford f700

vtlogger1973

I would definitley check the planetaries. My 230 has Eaton axles and it is very easy to do.  Pull six bolts out of center cover and take it off.  You will lose some oil so be ready. Or you might want to drain it before hand.  New oil is good.  Anyway once the cover is off just pull the axle and axle gear straight out.  You will want that tire in the air so it will turn freely.  In my experience 90% of planetary trouble starts with this gear.  If it shows any sign of wear or chips, replace it.  With axle out you can inspect the 3 planetary gears.   You may be able to move these gears a tiny bit.  Maybe 1/16 inch or less.  Thats OK.   I f you can move them more than 1/8 inch then the brass pins they ride on are worn.  If they show wear or chipping, I would reccomend replacing them.  On my machine I have to take off the tire to change the plans or pins.  If nothing is worn, I pull the axle gear off the axle, flip it over and put it right back on. Slide the axle back in.  You will have to slowly rotate the tire to mesh the gears line up the spline in the rear end.  While thr axle is out I usualy pour 1 quart of diesel in the planetary housing and rotate the tire slowly around a few times and then drain it to wash out any chips or metal flakes.  Every year I drain, rinse and refill the plans and rears.  And every year I flip the axle gears.  About every four years they show some wear and I replace them.(about 80 bucks each).It is well worth it.   If your drain plugs are not magnetic, replace them.  Mine are and I pull them regularly just to clean them.  Fine metal sludge on the plugs is normal but chips or chunks means trouble.   Checkl and clean the plugs often.                                                                                                                                   Your machine might have Rockwell axles.  If so then you may not have to pull the tire off to work on it.  But regardless, flipping the center gear rinseing everything and keeping the plugs clean is a good idea.                                                                                                                                     I have owned a 230 for 15 years.  If you have trouble, Ive likely experienced it. Ill answer any of your questions that I can.   Good Luck!

Maine372

you will definatly like the upgrade from your previous machine. much lower and more stable.

has your old machine sold yet? i wish i had the clinck to get it i know where there is a parts machine sitting with a good frame.

240b

Walking beams cracks above rear pin, pretty common ,hard to see- use coat hanger wire to feel around.(redesigned after ser# 779230)  with machine in full left turn no more than 17 3/8" rod exposed. or your pulling on the gland nut.  Remember reverse and the transfer case are NOT syncro. No-spin problems are fairly common, clicking noise from diff when driving in tight circle-- or not engaging in cold weather.(weak spring). crack on left top side of rear frame common, where thick top plate and side plate join.  A rubber mud flap cover over the drum brake to keep water(ice) will help.  Bronze ring gear in winch is pretty pricey.  I used to change that oil as often as the motor oil and put STP oil treatment in there too. That gear can be flipped if it hasn't already.  The Eaton axles are waay toughter that the rockwells too. Pretty simple, just change the oil often.   Oh, the shaft on the back of the transfer case for the brake, snap off also.. and the nut for that is some oddball thread castle nut.. I could probably think of 20 more things. Of all the skidders I've owned my 230D (#788845) is by far my most favorite!

Mark K

One thing I've found is not to let the pto just sit and run for an extended period of time while hooking up a hitch. No lubrication to upper shafts when your not moving because lower gears aren't turning. Wears bearings out on upper shaft. Check for play in upper shaft. Run it around in high and low, see if it kicks out of gear. Not to bad of a job to fix anyway. They are a simple machine made to be worked with ease. I've been through mine from one end to the other. I wouldn't be affraid to buy another.
Husky 372's-385's,576, 2100
Treefarmer C7D
Franklin 405
Belsaw m-14 sawmill

vtlogger1973

240B   Do the walking beams crack' or is it the frame that holds the pin that is known to crack.   Ive heard that before but I heard it was the frame.  I am going to look at a 230 tomorrow.  Im glad to know about the redesign that you mentioned and when it started.  The 230 I have now is serial number 788265 and I was told it is a 1978 machine.  Is yours a 78.   Do you know if the first two numbers indicate the year made.  I agree with you that my 230 is my favorite machine.

240b

the walking beam it self cracks.  I don't think the first two digits indicate year. Chadwick-baross used to have all the line cards. but probably not any more.  They through out alot of stuff when Lancaster closed. A guy who works at the oliver stores worked for years at CB and is good on these things. he might have retired though.  I no longer have my 230.

treefarmer87

they are good skidders,low to the ground. you only get on from the left, thats not a big deal though. some people say they are hard to see off of.
1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
FEC 1550 slasher
CTR 314 Delimber
Sthil 461
Sthil 250

J_T

One thing i learned was be sure to keep the battery's fastened down an a check valve in the fuel vent wouldn't hurt . ;D

I had just put a new fire extinguisher on mine right before i flipped mine right up side down .  ::) Yep fuel going everywhere sparks flying  pulled kill switch first and fast . Also be sure fire extinguisher is rated for a fuel type fire . ;D
Jim Holloway

vtlogger1973

excelent advice, always have a good fire extinguisher on board.  also a good idea to place a heavy piece of rubber on top of batteries.  i used an old mud flap off a dump truck.


one ither thing;  on the eaton or hercules winch there is a grease fitting onthe right side.  iwas told that this greases a sealed bearing, and over greasing would cause the seals to blow out and grease would get on drive cluyches.  a wise old man told me only one pump every 6 months  I took his advice and my eaton has been perfect for 15 years.

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