Timber Frame Beams

[TLahti]

Hi All:
  I am cutting beams for  a small (10' x 12') timber frame wood shed from red pine.
I am thinking that 5"x 5" beams will be big enough (I will study timber frame forum to be sure).
  If I cut the beams to 5"x5", when they dry, I am sure some of them will twist and bow.
Should I cut them "6 x 6", let them dry, then cut 1 inch off of two sides to try to straighten them out? I am using a small band saw push mill.
  Thanks,
Terry

[jamesamd]

If You cut 1" off 2 sides,the heart will not be centered anymore ;)
Jim

[TLahti]

Hi Jim:
  Thanks for the response. Does it matter if the beam is not exactly centered on the growth rings? Especially, after it is dry? I see production 2 x 4 s that are straight, and they have the growth rings off to one side. Also, when I am cutting some of the beams, the tree is not straight, so the growth center moves around through the length of the beam.
   If I am careful to keep the growth center in the middle, will they always be straight and not bow or twist? If yes, then I would cut them to final size before drying.

Thanks,   Terry

[red oaks lumber]

i would cut them oversize  then after dried resaw all 4 sides to resqaure them but also it removes any dirt or darking during the drying process. getting the heart close to center is ok but not like your doing heart sugery

[True North]

I may need to cut 4"x12" beams in the near future.  Is it advisable to always keep the heart in the center?  For instance, could you get three out of a 12" x12" + cant?

[red oaks lumber]

kevin,
the way i roll is i cut what i can get out of the log not paying a whole lot of attention to the heart. what iv'e noticed if the log is straight so will the wood, however if the tree grew on asidehill or out in the edge of the woods alot more grown in stress will be in there. do you know that before sawing ?for me no, i have no idea about the trees former location.

[laffs]

ive sawed 8x8s x 12' two from one log and have had very few problems. try to avoid bark seams that spike those are the worse for me. 4x12 i would lay flat and sticker good, i had some 3x6 & 4x8 i stood on edge to dry and some warped pretty good, i put them on edge because they finished of the row of my pile. to do it again id lay flat with the 8x8s on top of them.

the 5x5s i might oversize and recut if your going to let dry. if it were me and its a wood shed, id cut 5x5 and put up green. i dont see it being a problem

[Mad Professor]

Use the 6 X 6s and recess any joints , as needed to compensate for skrinkage, warpage, twisting, and poorly hewn/milled timbers.

This is called square rule (newer), or scribe rule (older), timber framing.

Go to the timberframing forum here, you will have some new friends and get great advice.

P.S. frames are also often put up green before things shrink or twist.

[jamesamd]

Hi Jim:
  Thanks for the response. Does it matter if the beam is not exactly centered on the growth rings? Especially, after it is dry? I see production 2 x 4 s that are straight, and they have the growth rings off to one side. Also, when I am cutting some of the beams, the tree is not straight, so the growth center moves around through the length of the beam.
   If I am careful to keep the growth center in the middle, will they always be straight and not bow or twist? If yes, then I would cut them to final size before drying.

Thanks,   Terry

2X4's are not beams.
Sometimes,You have to use what Ya got.
Ideally (is that a word) You would like the grain to run,clear and straight through,end to end,with the heart centered,unfortunetly,trees do thier dang best to thwart ,Our ideals.
Jim