How to saw thin boards

[Larry]

I get quite a few requests to saw boards thinner than 1", mostly 3/4" cedar.  No problem until the remaining two boards out of the cant.  I have a custom job coming up where the customer wants all 3/4" X 6" pine boards and he has a lot of logs.

On my old mill I modified the fixed log stops so they were only 1/2" above the bunks.  This allowed me to saw my last board comfortably at 3/4" thick.  On the new TK the stops are 3/4" above the bunks which only allows sawing a last 1" board comfortably.  Also part of the moveable blade guide drops nearly 3/4" below the band.  I could again modify the mill to allow a last board of 3/4" but thinking of alternatives.

Possibly a couple of shims to fit over the bunks to elevate the cant a 1/4".  Any ideas or suggestions?

[CalebL]

I get quite a few requests to saw boards thinner than 1", mostly 3/4" cedar.  No problem until the remaining two boards out of the cant.  I have a custom job coming up where the customer wants all 3/4" X 6" pine boards and he has a lot of logs.

On my old mill I modified the fixed log stops so they were only 1/2" above the bunks.  This allowed me to saw my last board comfortably at 3/4" thick.  On the new TK the stops are 3/4" above the bunks which only allows sawing a last 1" board comfortably.  Also part of the moveable blade guide drops nearly 3/4" below the band.  I could again modify the mill to allow a last board of 3/4" but thinking of alternatives.

Possibly a couple of shims to fit over the bunks to elevate the cant a 1/4".  Any ideas or suggestions?

I just tell the customer I can't cut under 1" on the last board and stack them on the side and if they want, I plane them down for an additional charge.  I tried shimming a few times but I couldn't do it without losing a lot of milling time.  I also hit the clamp once and decided it wasn't worth my time. 

[beenthere]

A slave board (timber) with a 1/2" fence (lip) to raise and hold that last dog board is how we used to do it on a WM.
Used it on a lot of occasions.

Could even stock pile the dog boards and do them at one time.

[Bogue Chitto]

That is what I tell the customer Calebl.  Customer understands.

[Chuck White]

A slave board (timber) with a 1/2" fence (lip) to raise and hold that last dog board is how we used to do it on a WM.
Used it on a lot of occasions.

Could even stock pile the dog boards and do them at one time.

I agree with Beenthere.
Just make a jig with a 1" board to lay on the bed rails and attach another board up on edge to the side towards the log stops, then lower the sawhead to 1½" and trim the upright board to ½" above the 1" board.

With this method, you "could" saw lumber as thin as you wanted!

[Overlength]

On my Woodmizer I just lay the last 2" board on top of the last 1" I just cut, which raises it up to where i can cut the 2" in half.

[Sixacresand]

A slave Board. thanks, beenthere.  thats the reason  I like this forum. 

On the few times i had to do this, I put the last 1 1/2" thick board on top of another thick board and clamped the two togetter about half way down the board length.  Then sawed down to the clamp. shut the saw off, moved the clamps a 4-5 feet behind the blade, cranked up  and proceded to the end. 

Another time instead of clamping the boards, i used wooden log stops (instead of the steel ones  that come with LT10).  And just saw through the wood logstops.  On the LT10 I can stand on top of boards to hold them down. 

[tcsmpsi]

When it is necessary, and for much of my cutting of boards, I square 3 sides and leave the 'untouched' (bark) side on the bunks and cut down to the last slab of the log that way.  However, under some circumstances, I recognize that will depend on one's dog biting capability.    ;D  Mine will bite most anything.   :D

[bandmiller2]

I cut alot of "bird house wood" 3/4" and just throw the 1" last board in a different pile.If you try to cut too close on the dog board usally it will twist,warp or outherwise mess itself up or you will catch something with the band.Keep life simple. Frank C.

[kelLOGg]

I use the slave board, too (glad to now have a name for it), with a weight on the remaining material to be cut, usually a liftable section(s) of railroad iron to flatten a bow. Sometimes I use clamps, too.
Bob

[Ohio_Bill]

I have cut quite a bit of white pine into lap siding. Drop ¾   about 5/8 thick.   I just turn the cant so the pith is left for the last cut . It would not make a good board anyway.