John Deere 110 problems

[Qweaver]

My 110 hydrostatic drive is malfunctioning.  It will work for awhile and then just stop working.  Both in forward and reverse and it seems to be getting more frequent.  It stopped 4 times on me yesterday.  after about 5 minutes it would work again.  I hate to spend over $300 on a shop manual but I just don't know where to start diagnosing this.  The tractor only has 420 hours and the hydraulic filters were changed at 100 hours.  I'm going to change them again tomorrow. I don't even know how this system works.  I suspect the seat safety circuit but I bridged that with a wire and it did not fix it.  I've got a big saw job to do this week and I have to have the tractor to move the logs.
Help!
Quinton

[thecfarm]

Motor on  tractor is still running? Does this happen just on a hill or when the front or back of the tractor goes up and down? Tractor on level ground when it happens ? I suppose the fluid is where it should be? Could be a bad hydro pump.

[pineywoods]

Hydrostatic drive is just a big hydraulic pump, a control valve and a hydraulic motor in place of the normal clutch. Check the fluid level. If it's low, right at the level of the pickup for the pump, could cause just what you describe. Remember the hydraulic fluid for the power steering, 3 point hitch, fel etc. is from the same source as the hydrostat.

[Qweaver]

Remember the hydraulic fluid for the power steering, 3 point hitch, fel etc. is from the same source as the hydrostat.

Yeah, the fluid level was the first thing I checked.  The fluid level is at the top of the scale.  All of the other hydraulic functions are working as normal.  I've got to get a manual so that i can see how this system works.  There is a poteniometer involved.  I wish they would just keep it simple.  I used to be able to fix anything. 

[Bandmill Bandit]

You still can fix any thing. Electronics mostly do control and diagnostics.

Check your linkages (manual or electronic) to be sure they are adjusted/operating properly. One other thing to check on is a sticking relief valve in the forward reverse valve body or even sticky F/R valves. Again Linkages regardless of how short they are can cause hangups that may present the problems you are having.

Sticky solenoids/actuators for what ever of a long list of reasons need to be on the list of things to check.   

   

[Qweaver]

Just came in after running the tractor for 15 minutes and it ran perfect.  No stops and no warning lights.  I hate this kind of problem.  I'm going to get my logs in loading position so that i can get the customers job done.  I have another tractor that will handle the sawn lumber but I have to solve this problem with the JD

[thecfarm]

Sounds like something going on with warning lights coming on. 420 hours is not many. Good luck.

[beenthere]

.........  No stops and no warning lights.........

First mention of warning lights.
Are they in code? as in flashing?

Check with your Deere dealer or Google the problem. Might have some hits that will help.

[bill m]

Sounds like an electrical problem to me. I had a similar problem with on my NH. The forward / reverse lever operated a switch that shifted the transmission. NH warrantied it 3 times. Two times they replaced the switch. The third time they let me do it ( about a 20 min. job ) so the mechanic did not have to drive out to me. While I was waiting for the new switch to arrive I took the old one apart to see what was going wrong. Water was getting in and causing it to work intermittently. I sealed it with silicone and put it back in. That was 4 years ago and no more problems.

[bandmiller2]

Quint,what size tractor is a 110 I'am stuck in the 50's and don't recall,thought that model was a lawn tractor.Usally those problems are a lack or restriction of oil or the linkage controlling it.Pull the oil filter off and do an autopsy,cut it open and inspect for moisture sludge or worse metal fileings.Metal fileings = deep do do.Worst thing I ever saw was the inside of a ford selecto-speed tractor transmission. Frank C.

[Qweaver]

The 110 is a 43hp TLB.  Weighs about 9000 lbs.  I love the way the machine works...I just hate having problems with a 400 hour machine. 

[Qweaver]

OK, I changed both hydraulic filters, drained and replaced 9.7 gal of hyd/trans oil and that seems to have fixed it.  But I really don't think so.  I found no dirt or metal in the oil.  I ordered a shop manual and the next few days will tell the tale. 

Quinton

[bandmiller2]

Quint,be sure its not sucking air,a little entrained air can cause problems. Frank C.

[Onthesauk]

Worth poking around a bit on  TractorByNet.com

The people on ForestryForum are really good on mills.  Some of these folks on the other are really good at tractors.

[thecfarm]

bandmiller might be on to something there. did you just change filters before this? I did on my other Ford and the guy behind the counter sold me the wrong one.  >:(  Took me about a week to figure that one out. Just need to slow down and think sometimes. That's what happens when I was 25.

[beenthere]

Try this
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/211469-2002-jd-110-tractor-loader.html

Apparently a speed sensor might cause the problem.

[Qweaver]

It stopped on me one time today...so the problem is still there.  I've got a manual on the way and maybe this will help me find the problem.

[Qweaver]

I got the manual for $10 on a CD.  It's really a good manual and beats the $300 cost of a paper version.  But no joy on fixing the problem.  I call the dealer and the tech suggested all of the things that I've already tried.  I guess I'm just going to pay the $70 per hour that the dealership charges.  Except that the tech didn't seem to know what the problem can be either.  I can't believe that both potentiometers would go bad at the same time.
Quinton

[woodhick]

Did you get your tractor fixed?  Was that you going through Charleston WV today around 2pm?   My son seen one being pulled by a motor home.  Just thought it might be you.