I was able to purchase my Dad's shop tools...

[Ruffneck]

  This is my inventory of shop tools that my Dad had. He used the radial arm saw quit a bit but the jointer and table saw were purchased right before he died. They were sitting in his garage for a few years and they rusted, more so on the jointer than the table saw. What would be the best way to get rid of the rust? I'm considering disassembling the jointer and trying the electrolysis process. If there is a easier way I would like to try that first. Naval Jelly or good old fashioned elbow grease possibly?


  


 
The table saw is a Grizzly 10" G0444Z


  

 
One other wood processing tool I purchased with my first mill is a 16 x 8 inch planer. I'm not sure about the availability of parts on it. All I really know is that it's heavy.

  

 

So with this arsenal I would like to process some fir that I have into drop siding for my 1911 house. The city requires the siding to match the original design.


 

The siding lays flat and has what I believe is called a Babbitt joint cut on the backside bottom. The surface profile comes down about an inch and then has a 45 degree angle to shed the water.



 

It was going to cost a pretty penny to have this made. I would like to reproduce this siding profile with what I currently have. This is a common siding in this city so it may turn out to be something I could make some money at. I will be happy just doing my house for now.

Any suggestions on how to set up my process is much appreciated. I'm not only a greenhorn sawyer, I'm a greenhorn woodworker :D

Stay safe,

Steven

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Ruffneck, I am very sorry about the passing of your Dad. You are blessed to get his tools.  8)
I don't know anything about helping you with your question.....but I sure am gonna wait to see some of your woodworking. 

[Slab Slicer]

Electrolysis may be a bit of overkill on the rust. Besides, it will remove the paint on those pieces also. I've used it for cleaning rust from cast iron cookware, and it will strip whatever is on it. Some good steel wool, and some elbow grease will work just fine. Try some of the more course steel wools (0) or (00), and see how that works out.  After it's cleaned, be sure to coat it to prevent the rust from happening again. I'm not sure what to use, but I have heard that bees wax works well, but let someone else chime in on that one.

Chuck

[Magicman]

First, I echo David's sentiments above.

Personally, I would use a wire cup brush on a side grinder to remove as much as possible.  The remaining smooth rust finish would be protective to the metal similar to bluing on a gun barrel.

Others will probably have more suggestions.

[Dave Shepard]

Water and steel wool. It will dissolve the rust. Then you need to put something on there to keep it from rusting again.

[Peter Drouin]

Good you kept the tools, with my table saw one time I had some rust so I use a block of wood and find sand paper, and rub it the same way the wood gos, front to back , blew it off with air then rub a bar of ski wax on it, for me wax is better then oil, the saw dust wont stick to it, good luck

[Larry]

This is the easiest method to clean the rust off your jointer.  Spray WD-40, used oil, or even drip bacon grease on it.  This is to provide some kind of lubrication for the next step.  Scrap the rust off with a straight edge safety razor blade.  The entire process should only take 15-20 minutes to get rid of the rust.  Wax with Johnson paste wax from Lowes or Home Depot.

I'm not sure about your siding.  Could it be rabbet edge siding?  It could be done on your tablesaw a couple of different ways.  Might be a scary operation for a greenhorn.  Maybe find somebody with a Belsaw, Woodmaster, or a small molder to run it for you.

[Ruffneck]

Thanks for all the replies! Mmmm, bacon grease sounds like the tastiest of the methods ;D
Could it be I've finally come across a project that will be easier than I initially thought?
Sounds like the rust isn't an alarming issue like I first thought. I have the Johnson paste
wax already, I was trying to keep the tools from getting worse.

This is a picture of the sidings' profile:



 


Thank you POSTONLT40HD, I was very fortunate to have him as my Dad. We would talk about buying a sawmill to make lumber with. I know he's with me as I continue to pursue my dreams.
I also have my Great Grandfathers hand tools. I'll have to post those pics some other time.

I have sawdust in my blood ;D ;D ;D

Thanks again everyone and stay safe!!!

[Slab Slicer]

I think they call that "dutch lap" siding around here. Not sure of all the equipment you have, but it looks like a 3 pass operation without a shaper. The curved profile at the top, the 45 along the bottom, and then the rabbet along the bottom back side. Again, it could be fewer passes with the right equipment.

[FeltzE]

There are a couple of "rust remover" liquids I have tried in the past One of which is avaialable from Agri-supply.  They work fine although I find that I just take some 220 sandpaper on the orbital sander for the flat surfaces and run over them and wipe clean. Follow with either an automotive paste wax or floor paste wax. Occasionally we get the right temperature / humidity sweep to cause the shop tools to sweat a bit. If I catch it, I run the heater and wipe everything down or everything will have a new coat of light rust again.

[T Welsh]

Ruffneck, Glad to hear that you have your dads tools. I have some from my grandfather and father and it always brings a smile to my face when I use them ;D. As for the rust just go to town on them with sand paper,I start with 80 to 100 grit and then up to 220 once done and clean,use simple car wax to coat the surfaces, yes the rust will come back if your shop is unheated,but a little steel wool afterwards will bring the finish back in no time and then recoat in wax.I usually have to do this twice a year or so. Tim

[ely]

steel wool, or i just run alot boards through the tools and they shine up.

[isawlogs]

  Good for you to have your dads tools, and those of your forfathers. 

I had the same happen to my jointer, it sat in the barn, I took a rag and wiped off the loose rust and then used my orbital sander with 240 grit paper and went at it, finished with 400 and oil...  worked for me, I wiped all that off and waxed it. I had to soak my knife holding screws with rust reaper over night to get them off, took the knives and cleaned them up also, while at it soak all moving parts then wipe off the excess the next day.

 

[jueston]

you could order a 55 gallon drum of wd-40 and dip the parts in one at a time.... or you could just spray it... 

when i got my planer which is much smaller then yours it had been in a unheated garage for a few years and was in similar condition, i just used wd-40 and steel wool and shined it up and then rubbed in some paste wax at the end, and it still looks rust free under the pile of junk that has accumulated...

[Ruffneck]

Great advise everyone. I'll start on cleaning them tomorrow. So, a heated shop is the way to store my tools ((:
Rabbet joint not babbet, thanks for clarifying my terminology. It wont be the last time I'll need it. (:
Now, I don't know much about planers, does anyone know about this Central Machine planer? I think of Harbor Freight when I hear that name. This thing seems very heavy duty compared to anything I've ever seen at Harbor Freight. Any suggestions on using better knives in this planer or do I send the ones I have in to get sharpened somewhere?
Thanks again for all the help.
Stay safe!
Steven

[Mooseherder]

I have the same exact Radial Arm saw you have in your picture.
It's a great piece of machinery.

[Larry]

Your planer looks to be a one off copy of the 15" X 6" planer that everybody imports.  I think your correct about Harbor Freight.  I doubt parts are available.  Check the gearbox oil before operation.  If you want new blades measure your old ones and check what is available on Amazon.com.  They have a large selection at reasonable price.  I noticed on the data plate it has a 2 HP motor.  New ones have a 3 HP motor which is still underpowered.  Electrical is usually the biggest problem on Chi/wan stuff.

If it runs, I would use it as is for a while just to see how you like it.  Might be just the ticket for planing your siding.

 

[Brad_bb]

My first reaction would be to use a machinist stone, which is a round hockey puck looking stone that has a different grit on each stone.  Use that in combination with some form of lubrication on the machined surfaces- whether it's penetrating oil or whatever.  I used one a lifetime ago when I was a stamping press operator to clean die surfaces.  Remember that any acid product like petroleum jelly or phosphoric acid etc will remove the rust, but also open up the grain of the steel making it more open to rust.  What you really want to do is get a smooth, slick surface back, and not leave any residue on your wood.  I think a stone with lube, then a good cleaning, and then protecting with the paste wax is the way to go.

Preventing rust in future:  Having a heated shop, or at least a well insulated shop to prevent quick temp swings is the way to go.  The primary goal is to prevent condensation, which is a leading cause of rust on tools.  Quick temp changes through the dew point will cause this.  Having a well insulated shop will prevent rapid temp swings.  Stable temp/Heat will prevent the dew point from ever being reached and make it more comfortable, and likely reduce humidity in non summer months.  Classic cars should always be stored in heated conditions for the same reason.  Condensation will ruin chrome and more.  Well insulated and sealed will reduce heating costs, so plan ahead, it's worth it.

[1woodguy]

After you sand off the rust Johnson's paste wax works well
If you try other waxes check to make sure there is no silicone in them years ago I made that mistake on tool surfaces and even after sanding the wood had when finishing projects weird spots because of the silicone may have been coating tools to much
   Kind of stumped me for awhile

[justallan1]

I think Slab Slicer is right with calling it Dutch Lap, or possibly pattern 105, maybe the same. Either one will give you your dimensions when you go to cut it.
Allan

[Happycamper]

Your planer is a lot like a Makia 16" planer 4 post,motor at the bottom driven by probably splined belt. Looks to be a nice sturdy unit. Check the Malita 16" blades perhaps they could be modified to fit. If there is a plywood mill in your area check with them as they are always changing blades on their "peelers". They possibly could be cut and modified also. Possibly the blades that are in the machine are fine and if so will last for years and years. You will derive a lot of pleasure using this equipment knowing who it belonged to prior, enjoy it. If you want photos of Makita blades just message me.
                                        Jim
Below are some nice 16" fir I did yesterday.
                                 

 

[CR]

There are about as many ways to  strip rust as   - - well  - - there are lots.
Consider that corrosion may be in places you can't get at without disassembling things.   Leaving that be will allow it to progress.

I like Citric Acid available in 5 and 10 pound bags on the flea bay really cheap. Toss a mess of it in water  and toss the parts in and walk away for a while. Speed of removal is connected to concentration of acid and temperature.  I also like to toss in some EDTA also available for cheap on the flea bay and online chem supply shops. The EDTA binds   non specifically to minerals and metals and will lock up all the iron that the acid liberates  not allowing it to redeposit with it's compliment of oxygen atoms on to your cleaned work.   And you can dump the used solution without  environmental harm as it all just breaks down into mineral and organic salts that the bacteria in the soil will much appreciate.

Electrolysis is such a PITA. I've tried it and I can't stand the process.  It works fine, but it's a total PITA.


You can use any of the commercial products  many of which are quite good if not a little spendy.

Here's one that  one almost never hears about: Rust Reformer paint.   Clean the surface of any greases or waxes,  don't bother scraping off the big rust scales, and lay it on thick thick thick.  Come back when it's all cured  off and take a scraper to it.  Whenever I've done this,  the paint peels away easily in great sheets  leaving a shiny clean surface underneath that requires absolutely no clean up.  Just oil or wax it and you are golden.  It's not the cheapest method but it sure us remarkable how well it works. 

[mesquite buckeye]

I vote with the  Johnson paste wax guys. Helps keep rust off, keeps surface slick, lasts for a couple years in normal use. When the surface starts to get draggy, just reapply. Simple.

[Ruffneck]

Thanks for all the great replies everyone. I tired a spot with steel wool and WD, I'm going to get a bit more aggressive in my approach on my next attempt. There sure are a lot of ways to skin this cat it sounds like. The jointer has been hit hard with the rust. The hand wheels are even rusted. I think disassembly may be in order to get to all its' hiding places. The table saw is in much better shape. There's just the rust on the table itself. The radial arm saw is good to go, I just need to determine if it's 220 or 110. The plug has a vertical and horizontal prong with a neutral.
It's such a shame the tool got this bad. They have never been used, there is still some assembly that needs to take place on the table saw...

Those are some nice looking boards there Happycamper... I've run my planer once to see what it would do. They were boards I milled off my first mill. I think it will be a better match using the boards I mill off of my LT 35. It's obvious in this video I don't know what I'm doing. Like my brother said, "I'm taking to much off on my passes." It wasn't like I had a particular project in mind I just wanted to play with it ;D:
http://youtu.be/vUIBL1wknbk
I purchase the planer from this gentleman, 93 year old Bud Lamb. I bought the sawmill in the background at the same time. He was a retired Millwright from Braziers Mill in Molalla Oregon. He made the mill himself.

 
I won't have to make a bunch of siding, I got a quote from a local mill and it was $2.75/foot. Getting the logs may be the biggest challenge, I don't think I'll come across the straight grained wood they used in my pine forest. I'm pretty sure it is Doug Fir anyway. But, I am finding a bunch of guys at work are wanting logs milled and they have some nice looking timber ;D I have some fir that's dry that I want to start practicing with...
What have I got myself into? :D

Stay safe,
Steven

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Good pics Steven of you and Mr. Lamb.
I wish I knew half of what that Gentleman knows.