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Sealing ERC to look glossy

Started by flattail, February 25, 2018, 09:21:04 PM

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flattail

I was wondering what folks were using to seal cedar wood ie bar tops and other boards to get that nice finished glossy look and protecting the wood.Do I need to do this to the bird houses I'm building too?      Thanks in advance.

DPatton

ERC is perhaps one of the prettiest and most beautifully colored woods of all when freshly sawn or run through a planner. However the color and beauty wont last if its not sealed in and protected from oxidizing soon. There are several types of finish products out there that can give you that gloss finish you are looking for and preserve the color and beauty of the wood but your choice of product needs to be selected based on exposure to the outside elements and sunlight. If you are making an interior bar or table top then I would suggest a two part bar / table top gloss epoxy finish. If you are making something that will be outside and exposed to the elements (bird houses) then you may want to select a gloss spar (or marine grade) varnish. You could also use gloss polyurethane but keep in mind there is no clear finish product that will last more than two to three years tops if it is out in the elements.

For reference I did a post titled Live Edge ERC Bench on here a while back that you could look up and compare finish options.
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justallan1

I make signs and cribbage boards on my CNC and find that wipe-on-poly works really well for me.
It's thin enough that ERC soaks up the first couple coats like a sponge, giving you something for your top coats to stick to and not peel. After I get enough built up that I start seeing any blemishes I can sand it by hand or with a block and sandpaper. I ALWAYS either light sand or use steel wool between coats just to rough it up slightly for the next coat to adhere to. Depending on each individual piece and what the customer wants, I use between 5-8 coats.
I use the cheapest sponge brushes I can find to apply and just toss them out after each use. You can find them 8-10 for a buck sometimes and I'll buy 50 or better at a time. I always wear latex gloves when applying finishes due to working on a ranch, turning wrenches and sweating, I just find it a way better chance of success.
I DO NOT use regular polyurethane because of how thick it is. I feel (and it's seen daily) the regular poly does not soak into most wood and it will separate and peel. If you do use regular poly make darned sure to seal your wood with something thinner first.
Just what works for me.
Here's one that I did a couple years ago, it seems to work pretty good. ;D
 

Kbeitz

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justallan1

Quote from: Kbeitz on February 26, 2018, 10:21:37 AM
I wish you wasn't so far away...
They are $75 shipped CONUS, with me giving the 5% to the site.
My new boards are 11.25x15x2 oval and hang on the wall.
Here's one I did awhile back that's just a bit more than sealed. It's enough to keep the color, but basically a no gloss finish. Can anyone find the mistake? LOL

This one is Box Elder Burl and probably had 8-10 thin coats on it. It was to repay the neighbors for letting me cut burls on their land.


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I made a live edge mantle for a customer a couple of weeks back, he used multiple coats of tongue oil on it and it is absolutely beautiful.  
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