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Share your tips for sharpening in the field..

Started by RBC2404, September 17, 2019, 10:03:52 AM

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ManjiSann

Quote from: lxskllr on September 21, 2019, 09:11:37 AM
I'm the other way with glasses. I have to take mine off to see close. I used to be able to see with them on, but that ability has disappeared with age.

edit:
Good question Manjisann. It's got me thinking about my sharpening technique. I'm gonna try to be mindful of the pressure I'm applying, and try to keep it reduced. I tend to be heavy handed with everything, and it's a bad habit. I overtorque almost every bolt I touch  :^/
I'm the same way and suspect it's part of why I feel I don't get consistent results the way I'd like.

Brandon 
Poulan Pro 5020AV, Husky 390XP

Tom King

I never set the brake, but always tighten the chain like it needs to be first.

thecfarm

Never set the brake,that would be a bother for that,I feel. I can and do put my saw on the ground and sharpen it. I do look for a good spot. I have put a stick of wood under it too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

HolmenTree

I do like to set my chain brake when I'm filing my right hand cutters if their rocked out . And I don't have to fully pull back the brake lever to release for advancing each cutter.
On both my Huskies and Stihls just a little pressure with the back of my filing hand on the lever is enough to release and advance my chain....try it some time.

Only way I file my chain in the woods(or the shop :D) is comfortably sitting on a stump or log with the saw in my lap.
Put a stick, wood cookie or a glove on my knee to protect my saw pants from the chain when filing the right hand cutters.
Always file the right hand cutters first, less damage to your knuckles if contacting the dull left hand cutters.


 

Making a living with a saw since age 16.

barbender

I'm no expert, but my saws cut. I usually just do it on my tailgate. I lean on the saw with my upper body and steady the bar with my left hand. I was trying to do this the other day without a filing guide, and was reminded why I like using them. When filing the left hand cutters, the file has a tendency to bind when using it with one hand. The filing guide keeps it from doing that.
Too many irons in the fire

John Mc

I really like using a stump vise when sharpening in the field. I can get by without one, but it certainly makes the job easier, and it only cost about $15.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

NorCalKuma

Only cut a coupe cords a year for personal use. Stump vice and a 2n1 works great for me.

RBC2404

Thank you all for some awesome ideas! You rock! 

John Mc

If you are looking for a Stump Vise, stay away from Timber Tuff brand. A friend bought one when he saw me using mine (Oregon). It would just not stick in a stump reliably. He ended up throwing it out and getting another brand at his local saw shop.

I have an Oregon vise. Ive used Husqvarna stump vises and they also work well. Stihl's also work well, but they want close to $50 for them - about 3 times what others charge.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

NorCalKuma

Cant remember the Stump Vise brand, I think its a Forester, but it could work better.  Removing bark and hammering into a solid area of a round works well, most of the time.  For me, its still much better then not using it.


Just looked at the Timber Tuff vise and the teeth do look shorter.

John Mc

Quote from: NorCalKuma on September 27, 2019, 11:06:08 AMJust looked at the Timber Tuff vise and the teeth do look shorter.


That was part of it. Something about the taper of the teeth seemed off as well. We compared, pounding my vise into the stump no deeper than the teeth on his, and Mine still held much better.

In general, I've not been very impressed with the Timber Tuff brand. Same friend had one of their pulp hooks which looked beefy, but was a miserable tool to use.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

doc henderson

if you want to see what not to use, look at goyodeal chainsaw sharpener.  fits on a special bar and has a 1/2 circle stone. they show you sharpening the chain on the bar.  you add the sharpener, run the saw and push into the stone and see sparks fly, it is grinding the outside of the cutter, not the gullet.



https://www.goyodeal.com/products/teeth-sharpener-saw-chainsaw-teeth-sharpener?_pos=1&_sid=cfb40b8f7&_ss=r
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

WV Sawmiller

   I sharpen mine on my ATV using an Oregon dremel tool type sharpener with the little stones. I can fit the butt of the saw in a spot on the back plate of my ATV, plug the sharpener into the cigarette lighter on my ATV. The sharpener has an angle guide on it so I sharpen each tooth alternatively. I have used several of the 12V sharpeners and all worked good. Stihl makes a good sharpener but it uses only their stones while Oregon uses any. Also the switch on the Stihl sharpener is on the cord and requires 2 handed operation. On the Oregon sharpener the rocker switch is on the side and you can just toggle it on and off with your thumb while holding the saw in your other. I'd rather sharpen the saw in the field than change loops. I never was good with a file and always sharpened one side more than the other with the resulting curved cut when I tried to use it.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

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