Timberjack 230/240 Owners & Experts, please help me out here...

[YANKEE_LOGGER]

Hello Everyone, new forum member here, been lurking around for a while. The 200 acres I own in NH is begging for me to do some selective logging for firewood and forest rejuvenation. My cuttinngn has always been non a smaller scale, just a few acres at a time, so now it seems like I need a skidder. Never used or owned a skidder. So learning about skidders. Did some digging and it looks like for my limited needs and budget a well kept Timberjack 230/240 might work well. Fortunately, there are a bunch for sale in the Northeast. I am going to start looking at these and I am hoping to compile a sensible checklist. I am no mechanic, but I understand diesels from fishing boats (not DD 353/453 specifically), but not a lot of other other stuff onn these like Hercules winches, Eaton axles, checking fluid in 5-6 different places etc. GROK AI helped me compile this list below from earlier forum entries here. Please have a look and advise on any other things I should include. Try to think of everything you would check if you were looking at one to buy. My plan would be to look for an experienced mechanic or owner whose knows these models and pay them to go through any purchase candidate I might find. Thanks in advance! (PS if you know anyone that is thinking about selling one, please let me know)

Below is a pre-purchase inspection checklist tailored for a Timberjack 240D or 230D skidder.

1. General Overview

    Visual Condition: Inspect the overall body for rust, dents, or structural damage. Look for signs of heavy wear or past repairs.
    Serial Number: Verify the serial number matches documentation to confirm the model (240D or 230D) and check compatibility with parts/manuals.
    Hours: Check the hour meter (if present) and assess if the hours align with the machine's condition. Low hours on a rebuilt engine (e.g., <100 hours, as seen in some listings) is a plus.

2. Engine

    Start-Up: Start the engine cold to assess ease of starting. Listen for unusual noises (knocking, grinding).
    Blow-By: Check for excessive blow-by from the crankcase breather tube (a common concern; "no blowby" is often noted in good listings).
    Exhaust: Observe smoke color (blue = oil, black = fuel, white = coolant). Minimal smoke is ideal.
    Leaks: Look under the engine for oil, coolant, or fuel leaks.
    Model Specific: Confirm it's a Detroit Diesel (likely 353 for 230D, 453 for 240D). Check oil pressure and temperature gauges (if equipped).

3. Transmission

    Shifting: Test all gears to ensure smooth shifting. The ForestryForum thread noted a 240D where "the transmission doesn't shift into all gears," indicating this is critical to check.
    Clutch: Engage and disengage the clutch (manual transmission). Feel for slipping or grinding.
    Condition: Ask about recent rebuilds or repairs (e.g., "new tranny" or "rebuilt transmission" is a good sign per sales listings).
    Leaks: Inspect for transmission fluid leaks.

4. Winch

    Operation: Test the winch (likely Gearmatic or Hercules on these models) by engaging and releasing it. Ensure it pulls strongly.
    Cable: Check the mainline cable for fraying, kinks, or rust (e.g., "brand new 100' 5/8" swaged mainline" was noted in a 230D listing).
    Pads/Brakes: Inspect winch brake pads for wear (new pads are a bonus, as in some 240D listings).

5. Tires and Chains

    Tire Condition: Measure tread depth and estimate remaining life (e.g., 20%, 45%, or 95% as seen in listings). Common sizes: 18.4x34 (240D) or 23.1x26 (230D).
    Damage: Look for cuts, punctures, or sidewall damage.
    Chains: If included, assess chain condition (e.g., "multi-ring chains" or "bear paw chains at 80%"). Ensure they fit the tires.
    Alignment: Check for uneven wear indicating alignment or suspension issues.

6. Hydraulics (if equipped)

    Leaks: Inspect hydraulic lines, cylinders, and fittings for leaks or seepage.
    Operation: Test any hydraulic functions (e.g., blade or grapple, though 240D/230D are typically cable skidders).
    Fluid: Check hydraulic fluid level and condition (clean vs. dirty/cloudy).

7. Center Section and Frame

    Play/Slop: Rock the machine side-to-side to check for excessive play in the center pins or articulation joint (noted as "some play" in a 230D listing).
    Cracks: Look for welds or cracks in the frame, especially around high-stress areas like the pivot point.
    Bushings: Inspect bushings for wear if accessible.
    TJ's have alot of drive shafts check all u-joints and replace if at all loose

8. Brakes

    Function: Test the brakes (drum brakes on 240D per listings). Ensure they engage firmly without delay.
    Condition: Check brake pads or shoes for wear (e.g., "brakes need new pads" was a noted issue on a 240D).

9. Electrical System

    Battery: Test the battery (new batteries are often highlighted in listings). Check for corrosion on terminals.
    Lights/Gauges: Verify functionality of any lights, gauges, or indicators (if equipped).
    Starter/Alternator: Ensure the starter turns over smoothly and the alternator charges properly.

10. Cab and Controls

    Cab Condition: Check for broken windows, missing doors (common in older skidders), or rust inside the cab.
    Controls: Test all levers and pedals for responsiveness and stiffness. Ensure winch and throttle controls work smoothly.
    Seat: Inspect the seat for tears or missing padding.

11. Operational Test

    Drive Test: Drive the skidder (if possible) to assess transmission, steering, and overall handling. Note any vibrations or pulling.
    Woods Readiness: Ask if it's "woods ready" (a common claim in listings) and verify by testing key functions under load.

12. Maintenance History

    Records: Request any service logs or receipts (e.g., rebuilt engine, new parts like injectors or turbo, as seen in some 240D/230D listings).
    Recent Repairs: Note upgrades like "new process transmission" or "new hydraulic pump" that indicate recent care.

13. Additional Considerations

    Attachments: Confirm what's included (e.g., chokers, chains). The 230D listing mentioned "6 chokers."
    Terrain Suitability: Ask about its prior use (e.g., hilly vs. flat terrain) to match your needs.
    Transport: Measure dimensions (approx. 23 ft long, 10 ft wide, 10 ft high, 30,000 lbs per listings) for transport planning.


Tips for Use:

    Bring Tools: A flashlight, tire gauge, wrench set, and rag for checking fluids will help.
    Ask Questions: Inquire about known issues (e.g., the ForestryForum transmission trouble) and recent repairs.
    Compare Listings: Use sites like LumbermenOnline.com to benchmark condition (e.g., a 1980 240D with rebuilt engine vs. a worn-out unit).

[Kodiakmac]

Holy Mackerel!

[230Dforme]

Skidders are no different from women, check under the hood and find out where she's been. The good ones are rather obvious 

[62oliver]

I was looking for a 230 awhile back and ended up with a 240E, it was only 10 miles away so was a no-brainer. Its a great machine, but in reality I could get by easily with a significantly smaller machine. Mine is 9' wide over all, so it needs some room to wiggle thru the bush if I'm just picking out firewood. I burn maybe 6 bush cords per year, so I can actually pull a years worth of wood in not many trips. I also use it just for making trails, but again, it's a fairly large machine for that too. Some of the smaller models are much narrower and lower for climbing in and out of, just something to consider.
P.S. If you or someone you trust covers all the things you have listed you should be good

[tacks Y]

Might want to add the 225 D to your list.  I have one and am glad to have a narrower machine.  Unless you are doing a lot of side hills.

[BargeMonkey]

 All depends on shape and condition. C-D model and up Deere isn't a bad choice either, take a 440-540D over a 230-353 every day of the week. If your die hard on buying a Jack, Andy Swinton in Lake George would be the one to call, probably knows of a few for sale and what's junk. Harold's in Maine can still get just about anything Jack, bands, bearings. 

[YANKEE_LOGGER]

Fair enough, Skidders are often not as loud I think...

Skidders are no different from women, check under the hood and find out where she's been. The good ones are rather obvious

[YANKEE_LOGGER]

I saw one and liked the size, so yes definitely an add to the list

Might want to add the 225 D to your list.  I have one and am glad to have a narrower machine.  Unless you are doing a lot of side hills.

[YANKEE_LOGGER]

Great,thanks

All depends on shape and condition. C-D model and up Deere isn't a bad choice either, take a 440-540D over a 230-353 every day of the week. If your die hard on buying a Jack, Andy Swinton in Lake George would be the one to call, probably knows of a few for sale and what's junk. Harold's in Maine can still get just about anything Jack, bands, bearings.

[YANKEE_LOGGER]

I am in a similar position, I do not need a large machine

I was looking for a 230 awhile back and ended up with a 240E, it was only 10 miles away so was a no-brainer. Its a great machine, but in reality I could get by easily with a significantly smaller machine. Mine is 9' wide over all, so it needs some room to wiggle thru the bush if I'm just picking out firewood. I burn maybe 6 bush cords per year, so I can actually pull a years worth of wood in not many trips. I also use it just for making trails, but again, it's a fairly large machine for that too. Some of the smaller models are much narrower and lower for climbing in and out of, just something to consider.
P.S. If you or someone you trust covers all the things you have listed you should be good

[240b]

Skidders are no different from women, check under the hood and find out where she's been. The good ones are rather obvious

around here its... Oh you got bobs old 
rig?  they've all been passed around, the next guy thinking hes got a gold mine.  at this point they're all clapped out.  Go to Minnesota or Wisconsin and look for something off of farm. They don't have rocks there either.

[KWood255]

Keep in mind, the 230's were made from the 60's through to late 80-early 90's. Quite a few variables there. When the engine is cold, white smoke is common. I would let it warm up a bit before screaming the Detroit. Even if it pours a little black smoke, it may just need a service. 

Probably mixed opinions out there, but I would stick with the Hercules/Eaton winch. I would struggle buying one with the gearmatic, but that's just my preference. 

I had two 350's which I liked better then my 230's. 3 speed power shift vs 4 speed manual, but the rest of the drivetrain is essentially the same. I found the 350's had much better access for services, and I'm a fan of the power shift trans.

My first machine was a TJ 215. Nice size, a little narrower and had all the power I needed with the 220 Ford diesel. My understanding is the planetaries are the weak point in those, otherwise a nice option. Mine was great, and like all (except the TJ 330) I wish I still had it.

Another skidder to watch for is a Clark 664-665. I currently have both a 230D and 664D. The Clark is my favourite machine to date. Only drawback in my opinion is getting in and out of the cab. It's an extra step, which is getting more and more noticeable as the years go by. 

If you are like me, the skidder won't get more then 100 hours a year of use. They are tough as nails if you do your part, but may as well start with a good one. A pile of $ can be spent with a combination of bad luck and/or worn out machines. 

[62oliver]

I have no personal experience with the Clarks, but back in the day when I was a kid, I knew quite a few guys that had cable skidders, mostly TJs, but the Clarks were always referred to as the Cadillac.
Trying to convince my wife that I need a 2nd skidder has not gone anywhere.

[230Dforme]

Good YouTube video used skidders

 Powermodz site
1 yr ago
Buying an old skidder

[KWood255]

I have no personal experience with the Clarks, but back in the day when I was a kid, I knew quite a few guys that had cable skidders, mostly TJs, but the Clarks were always referred to as the Cadillac.
Trying to convince my wife that I need a 2nd skidder has not gone anywhere.

If your wife is mad, go buy the 2nd skidder. She will still be mad, but you'll have another skidder. 

[230Dforme]

Agree with Kwood
And another saw, dozer, log truck, puppy etc 😎

[teakwood]

Trying to convince my wife that I need a 2nd skidder has not gone anywhere.

That's because you don't need one! lol

[ehp]

Thing is you need to look at what model your talking about cause lots of differences between the letters behind the numbers , the newer the skidder the heavier it was built , bigger pins in blade and things . You can find parts at most parts store for a 230 or 240 , I got a 460D and have to buy parts from Johndeere .  Another thing I have seen more than one person claim a 230 weighs close to 30,000 pounds , sorry  but thats not even close , my 230A with cummins power and doors plus brandnew 23.1 by 26 ties is just less than 18,000 pounds, the 460D with 30.5 by 32  with single arch and winch is just under 34,000 pounds as where the machines sit when not using them has a govt 200,000 pound truck scale so can weigh them as many times as I like