Getting power to DIY power feed?

[toyowashi]

I own a small manual mill (Woodland Mills 126 Woodlander) with no hydraulics or power features. Just a simple bandsaw on a track basically. I want to add a power feed and power lift. I got a pretty good idea of how to go about it from the form, but I can figure out how people are actually getting power to the motors. 

I suppose I could just run an overhead power line stepped down to 12v, but that wouldn't be portable. I was thinking of trying to have the motor power an alternator to power a car battery and run the motors off that. Or should I just use a small generator that's separate? I want to keep it as simple as possible. 

What are y'all doing? Pics of your motor setup would be a big help. 

Thanks,

Jack

[btulloh]

Most are just using a battery and recharge at night. Lasts long enough without getting crazy with battery selection. 

Quite a few here have done the power feed addition. Try searching for some of those threads. Most arepretty detailed. 

[Ljohnsaw]

I upgrade and put a car alternator on my mill head.  I use that (with a battery) to run my power drive:
Power Drive

It also runs my head lift:
Power Lift (fixed link)

The cons:  My power lift has taken a beating.  I managed to break the final stage chain when I tried to lower the head but had my "transport chain" installed to keep the head from falling.  The sprockets have tipped a little and are rubbing on the back board they are mounted on.  My total reduction is about 22.6:1 with the chain stages.  I ordered a worm drive 20:1 reducer from Surplus Center that I will mate a wheelchair motor (same style I'm currently using) to and the output to my upper shaft.  At that point there will be no side loads, a bit of friction reduction and pick up a little bit of speed.

The power drive was working great! for about an hour and then died.  I need to do some testing to see if it is just a simple loss of power (bad connection) or the board is toast.  The variable speed was awesome.  I'd dial it up from 16% to 30% as the log would allow.  I then would run it back at 100% which was a fair walking speed.  I really want to make it work and might have to try a different brand/type of controller.

The wheelchair motors are 24v and do well with the 12v supply.  Actually the alternator is putting out 14.something.

[bags]

The power feed on my HM 130 will run 2 days before I have to switch out the battery---

[toyowashi]

Sounds like I'm over thinking it. I'll just start with a recharging the battery at night as see how that does. Thank y'all. 

[toyowashi]

The power feed on my HM 130 will run 2 days before I have to switch out the battery---

I found the post you made about your power feed. Looks great. Thanks for the help. 

[toyowashi]

Looks like a good set up. What kind of switch are you using with the large knobs? 

[Ljohnsaw]

Looks like a good set up. What kind of switch are you using with the large knobs?

 
Not sure what you are referring to as big knobs. So I'll describe what each are. 
Starting lower left is the ignition switch (from a lawn tractor) and the toggle switch next to it is the electric clutch. 
Above that is a DPDT center off switch that is rated at 15A IIRC that controls the Up and Down.  The momentary button switch must be pressed to make it run.  I hold until close and then jog it to position.  When lowering, I go below about ¼" and then come up to take out any backlash in the mechanism.
On the top right is the same type of switches but are now overkill.  I put a toggle switch to turn on the power drive so I didn't have to hold it.
Below that is a black rotary knob.  That is a rheostat that controls the speed of the power drive via that silver module hanging crooked.  That controller came with a little DPDT center off for direction control.  It needed a square hole to mount it so I cut it off and used my existing heavy duty one.  The SPDT "run" switch is not necessary and I just leave it on.  The rheostat has an off switch when you turn it fully CCW.  So I use that and the direction switch.  I always turn it off before switching direction.
The volt meter worked for about a day.  Cheap import crap.

[97redjeep]

I know it's not a true power lift, but I had a second crap 18v hitachi drill, pulled the handle off and it hasn't left the mill since ;D saved a lot of cranks already. you can see it here a bit 

[Den-Den]

there are lots of options, three categories:
*  12v DC from a battery / charger or alternator
     keeps the mill portable and simple
*  Hydraulic motor with pump powered by main engine or separate engine / motor
     mill can be portable unless Hydraulics are powered by AC motor, hydraulics can also be used for additional functions
*  AC electric
     not portable without a generator
     This is what I used.

[Crusarius]

my mill has a deep cycle battery connected to the engine. But that same deep cycle battery sits under the seat of my UTV and runs my winch. The winch raises and lowers the plow in the winter. The battery is not connected to anything other than the winch. I can go for weeks without having to charge that battery.

You will notice the feedrate slowing when the battery needs to be charged. but I bet you can go for at least a week with no issues. just make sure it is a good deep cycle battery.

[toyowashi]

Looks like a good set up. What kind of switch are you using with the large knobs?

 
Not sure what you are referring to as big knobs. 

I was actually mixing you up with another poster. I think he is using hydraulics thus the large handle switches. Thank you for the rundown though. I'm basically going to copy you so it is very helpful.

[toyowashi]

I know it's not a true power lift, but I had a second crap 18v hitachi drill...

I just tried this on my smaller model and it worked like a charm. Might just keep using this instead of building a true lifting unit.

[toyowashi]

...just make sure it is a good deep cycle battery.

Good advice. I'm going to try this soon.