finishing cedar

taylorsmissbeehaven · July 02, 2020, 12:50:01 PM

I am building a cedar sign to go in front of a neighborhood. It will be a glue up live edge bottom for the signage and then a live edge "roof" to mimic the look of a cabin of sorts. The cedar has just come out of the kiln and is ready to be put together. Can anyone make a recommendation as to a quality finish other than polyurethane? Id like it to keep its color as long as possible but don't want to have to constantly re-coat. I am not opposed to doing maintenance on it it just seems that the poly I have been using needs to be redone far too often! Maybe that's just the way it is?Thanks in advance for any ideas, Brian

farmfromkansas · July 02, 2020, 06:56:19 PM

I bought a exterior product one time that had tung oil in it. The next time I bought it, it had coal oil instead. Of course, I was in the middle of a project with the stuff I bought first, so had to go over the whole thing again, because it did not match. Think it was called CWF, or clear wood finish.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · July 03, 2020, 05:18:02 PM

This will be perfect for a sign

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PPG-ProLuxe-5-gal-Cedar-SRD-RE-Exterior-Transparent-Matte-Wood-Finish-SIK250-077-05/205857604

taylorsmissbeehaven · July 03, 2020, 07:22:16 PM

Thank you both! It might be a few weeks but I'll try to post a picture. Brian

Unclefish · July 03, 2020, 09:17:19 PM

I built a rocket launcher for fishing rods out of red cedar and coated it West system with 207 hardener.last along time outside
Expensive but it last.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · July 03, 2020, 10:04:27 PM

Here is the best.. use three coats. Follow directions exactly, except for three coats.

https://www.loghomeshoppe.com/sikkens-proluxe-cetol-srd-re.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgb3xisGy6gIVEdbACh17yQkvEAQYBCABEgK0ufD_BwE#145=124&92=121

D6c · July 11, 2020, 09:57:25 PM

I didn't like the idea of polyurethane either since it can yellow and peel outside.
I used Penofin oil based finish on the western red cedar ceiling on my porch. It can be recoated if needed but don't expect to very often since it's protected from weather.

On my mail box post I treated it with 1 part linsead oil, one part turpentine, and one part Stockholm tar (pine tar). That's a mix often used on wooden boats and rigging.

Ljohnsaw · July 11, 2020, 10:58:00 PM

Quote from: D6c on July 11, 2020, 09:57:25 PMOn my mail box post I treated it with 1 part linsead oil, one part turpentine, and one part Stockholm tar (pine tar). That's a mix often used on wooden boats and rigging.

Is that boiled or raw linseed oil?

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · July 12, 2020, 06:42:30 AM

Uncle fish, Did you just use the hardener without the resin, which is part 1? Epoxy is a two part system, and the hardener is part 2. As UV light degrades epoxy, it is important that part 1 has a us absorber. Thanks for clarifying.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · July 12, 2020, 06:57:53 AM

Taylorsmissbehaven, You definitely want a non-film forming product so that the wood looks natural without the gloss of the finish. So, polyurethane is out. You want a penetrating stain product. You also probably want three coats. You also probably want a material that will not be food for mold and mildew. Also, a waterproof product is best to keep the sign from swelling after a rain and then drying out and shrinking when the sun beats on it. You also probably want a clear product so that the natural color comes through. Finally, you want a product that absorbs us light so that the us does not cause the natural graying we see when wood ages outside. This will also help to keep the color uniform between wood fully exposed to wood protected from full sunlight.

Ljohnsaw · July 12, 2020, 09:57:04 AM

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on July 12, 2020, 06:57:53 AM
Taylorsmissbehaven, You definitely want a non-film forming product so that the wood looks natural without the gloss of the finish. ... exposed to wood protected from full sunlight.

And the answer is ? ???

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · July 12, 2020, 09:48:02 PM

See reply #5

Ljohnsaw · July 12, 2020, 11:14:29 PM

I saw that. Thought maybe you had another secret to reveal... ;) If I use Total Boat epoxy (non-uv rated) to fill cracks and such, can I use the above to finish a project? That is, will it adhere to the epoxy?

taylorsmissbeehaven · July 13, 2020, 12:28:30 PM

Right on all accounts Doc! I will have a live edge "roof" to shed some sun and water but it will be the same material. I have to glue up some boards yet but my template is ready. I hope to have a picture or two in the next few weeks. Thanks to all for the advice, Brian

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · July 13, 2020, 11:51:41 PM

I doubt that it will adhere as it is a non-film forming finish. I doubt that it can penetrate epoxy.

Ljohnsaw · July 14, 2020, 09:47:40 AM

So people that are filling cracks with epoxy, what are you using for the finish coat? @tule peak timber ?

firefighter ontheside · July 14, 2020, 09:58:48 AM

@GeneWengert-WoodDoc I have the Sikkens Cetol 1 and 23 Plus on my log home. Expensive, but great stuff.

tule peak timber · July 14, 2020, 11:26:54 AM

Quote from: ljohnsaw on July 14, 2020, 09:47:40 AM
So people that are filling cracks with epoxy, what are you using for the finish coat? @tule peak timber ?

Years ago the search for a top coat for epoxy began for me and it has been a long journey. We will sometimes finish with AeroMarine 400-300/21 series epoxy, or UltraClear epoxy and then buff the finish. Mostly after a complete-flaw free thin epoxy coat we spray with AwlGrip or AwlCoat clear top coat-then buff. Epithanes two part clear coat is also good. Some epoxys are formulated for "table top" use and you can put them on as a final finish and they work great.
Be very careful to read manufacture's instructions, especially about temperatures at application time as epoxys from different sources are very different in characteristics.
Sometimes after a very thin epoxy penetrating coat we sand using a Scotchbrite pad soaked in hardwax oil to achieve the "naked " finish so many customers want on fine furniture.
Each of these finishes offer advantages and disadvantages so it is important to feel out the customers needs, their wants ,,,,and their pocket book size.................... ;D

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · July 14, 2020, 03:34:37 PM

Glad to hear of your success with the PPG Sikkens CETOL. It is expensive, but for a sign that must withstand severe conditions, you need the best, as repair cost is high and appearance is ultimate.

It is indeed similar for a home. Money spent now defers so many problems.

The one issue with epoxy is that it is a film forming product, with the integrity being critical. The PPG product penetrates and does not form a film. As a result, the wood grain shows through without gloss.