Cutting wonky log too big for the Mill

[Brad_bb]

Here is an ash log but I will using a timber frame.  


 
It's tricky because it is much wider than the mill.

I set it up so I could cut the first 2/3 of the length.  The final third had to hang over the edge of the mill resting on a saw horse. Wood blocks were used Under the log at three points to get each section at the height desired. The first 2/3rds Was then cut, and the saw head was backed out, in the slab cut off with a chainsaw to that point.  The log then  Needed to be re-positioned to cut the final third. Not only does the tail and need to be slide over but it also needs to be rotated. Of course all of the shimming blocks fall out when you do that.  Once in position I need to re-shim The log at three points to get the existing cut level. The saw head needs to be in the middle of the log while doing this.  The band is lowered at the end of the cut and then the head backed up to see whether the front and needs to be shimmed up. The band is lowered at the end of the cut and then the head backed up to see whether the front and needs to be shimmed up. It is shimmed until the blade can be moved back-and-forth without the distance between the band and the cut face changing, and the cut remaining level.


 

 

 

 

Shims and wedges are used to make sure it's fixed in this position and the ratchet strap is used To help assure that the log doesn't move while cutting.


 

 



The final step will be to flip the log and cut the other side. This will be easier now because it can register off of a flat face on the mill.  So It should be able to be rotated while cutting and no shimming should be needed.

[JoshNZ]

Looks like tricky work haha. Will be interested to see what you do with such a piece of timber!

[Stephen1]

The first face is the hardest to set up, The other side will be a breeze. 
I also want to see how you will use that log in a timberframe?

[Nebraska]

Looks like a good excuse to look into one of those new 50" EZ Boardwalk Sr's ;).  I hope you put pictures up with it used, I don't think I have the patience to fiddle with a cut like that.  Of course now I'm curious to try..... DanG your hyde Brad.

[beav]

You cut the easy sides. I cant wait to see how you cut the other two sides

[WV Sawmiller]

Brad,

   I'm impressed. 

   I have cut curved pieces that total width was wider than my mill would cut but I was able to clamp in the middle and cut one end then when I got past the clamp the log/cant slid/shifted/rotated over and let me pass the saw head over to the end. The clamp held the log/cant tight enough it did not noticeably affect the level on either side but I think this one may be too big for that.

    I'm with the rest and want to see it in use when you are finished. What are you building anyway - an igloo? :D

[Brad_bb]

It's a nice archway for a porch, or hallway, or a really big collar tie.  Ya gotta think creatively.  Trust me, if I end up using it in my house build, I'll post pics.  Plus all the other stuff I've been cutting over the years.  Trying to make it an out of the ordinary timberframe.  I'm sure I'll have a lot of extra pieces as well, I've cut so much fun stuff.

[Brad_bb]

The second side took three minutes to saw. It took longer to flip it.


 

[WV Sawmiller]

Brad,

  Did you cut, flip, cut second face then flip back and make a thin trim cut to smooth out any mismatched saw marks from  the first cut or was a trim cut needed?

[Brad_bb]

No trim cut needed on this piece.  On the occasion that I do- where you get the first side sorta flat, do the second side, then want to go back and smooth out the first -I use my MP100 planer/jointer on mill track.  You still have to rotate a log like this as you go,  but it works fine.  I've done this a lot in the last 6 years I've been milling.  FYI, I never clamped this log with the mill clamps.  I use the uprights as the band drives the log against them, and then when I got past the middle I did ratchet strap this one to hold it down firmly against the wedges I had under there.  When jointing/planing this kind of stuff with the MP100 I often don't clamp either.  I also mill live edge braces stock without clamps.  I sometimes use the clamps with beams for the purpose of pushing the face I'm clamping to make it perpendicular to the mill bed (along with very small wedges many times).

[Brad_bb]

Last pics.