Fastner Choices for Angle Brackets in Oak Timbers?

[kantuckid]

Deciding best fastner for oak timbers (out of weather location) using 1/2" diameter lags in hot dipped vs. SS, vs. hot dipped or SS cap screws?

  The price points vary wildly as would be expected.

Hardware is Simpson Strong Tie HL-53 angle bracket.

By far the least expensive choice is to use a hot dipped cap screw, drilled through length, even when the washers and nuts are added in.
 
FWIW, in smaller dia. wood screws I've come to dislike SS as they twist off in hardwoods or in longer lengths as I bought for ERC timbers. 
   

[Brad_bb]

Is there a question here?

I definitely don't like using fasteners in oak if I can help it.  Oak is so acidic  and reacts to metal so much.  What are you using them for?  A timberframe joint (mortise and tenon and oak peg) would be much preferred.

[kantuckid]

I am familiar with oak pegs-used them to assemble my EWP truss frames in my own home. In this case there will be a lap joint with a third timber coming at a right angle and steel brackets will be used. 
For ease of understanding my post I just threw in a ?????????. 

[Don P]

I'm working on a 120 year old house framed in oak, lots of nail corrosion, mostly the parts that are not in the oak, where they were repeatedly wetted. A great many older homes here were nailed oak. Nails that are in the dry do not pull without serious effort, moisture is part of the equation. No doubt steel and oak is not a great idea, the oak corrodes the steel and the steel damages the oak but galvy fasteners wouldn't worry me.  One peg in the heavy frame was bug food, nothing is perfect. I've used a number of Fastenmaster LOK line fasteners to repair and get the load paths up to snuff, their coating is the same ASTM corrosion standard as Hot Dipped Galvanized.

The place to start is to review the Simpson specs, load and capacity to help steer the decision. Looking at the catalog, read everything, footnotes and all. That HL is not available in SS and mixing is prohibited so bag the stainless. You can order them in HDG, the fastener specified is 5" minimum lags or machine bolts.

[kantuckid]

As a guy that has torn down old houses and barns to fetch Chestnut I've pulled a few nails too and from every species that grows, well maybe none was buckeye. ;D
They are always intact unless water been on them from deteriorated roofs, etc..
Actually I've read through the Simpson catalog on HL's and base attachments but I missed the notion of metal mixing which I should not have! 
 I guess the real decision is to decide between thru bolts and lags in HDG. The timber lap joint adjacent these brackets will get a timber screw. Thanks

[kantuckid]

Bought a bunch of hot dipped galvanized lags on ebay for angle brackets.
 
Brackets for right angle connections also from ebay and less than half price of dealers for leftover hardware. 

Bought a bunch of ebay 5/8" dia., hot dipped galv., looooonnnnggggg foundation "J" bolts to embed in my concrete piers and retain oak timbers. The beams will drop on then counter sink the washer & nut.  

???-I'm thinking about buying a roll of sill seal foam insulation that's wider than my timbers to isolate the wood from my alu termite shields? I took not that plastic mfg "wood" has been used for wood beam bearing surfaces but don't want the height gain from such. 

One thing I've learned is that not all paperboard pier form tubes are the same weight of wall thickness!!! Ones I got from a commercial concrete supply house are much heavier than box store tubes yet better pricing. I took back the Quickcrete tubes to the box store!