Logs longer than sawmill

[jdtuttle]

I have an LT15 wide which saws 17' max. I need to mill some timber frame beams 6" x 8" x 21'. I have a couple ideas but has anyone done this sucessfully?
Thanks,
Jim

[WV Sawmiller]

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=tips

  Try reading the tips in the Extras tab on the FF home page and under Milling - bandsaws there is a thread on sawing logs longer than the mill. Good luck.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Getting out the one beam is a lot easier than trying to keep all the side lumber over length as well. That will make you crazy.

[Dave Shepard]

When I have to cut longer than the mill, I cut as far as I can, then cut the slab or board off. Once I have a can't, then I slide it to cut the end square.



 

 

[WV Sawmiller]

@Dave Shepard , 

   Don't leave us in suspense - how do you finish cutting off that last few feet? You have made it look simple so far, now for the rest of the story. ;)

[terrifictimbersllc]

You cut side 1, then side 2, at normal max length , leaving a hump uncut on each. Then side 3, except instead of lifting the head out you slide head back in the kerf, then slide the whole cant back on the flat bottom until you can finish the cut and then make that full cut. Same for side 4. Now go back and finish sides 1and2.

[RAYAR]

You cut side 1, then side 2, at normal max length , leaving a hump uncut on each. Then side 3, except instead of lifting the head out you slide head back in the kerf, then slide the whole cant back on the flat bottom until you can finish the cut and then make that full cut. Same for side 4. Now go back and finish sides 1and2.

I would like to see you demonstrate this procedure. ;D

[Dave Shepard]

@Dave Shepard ,

  Don't leave us in suspense - how do you finish cutting off that last few feet? You have made it look simple so far, now for the rest of the story. ;)

In the second pic the log has been slid back. You then cut that hump off. Now you have a flat surface to slide back and forth on the deck.


I'd prefer you just qouted me, rather than tagging, as tagging initiates a bunch of unnecessary popups that don't always clear right away.

[Joe Hillmann]

When I have to cut longer than the mill, I cut as far as I can, then cut the slab or board off. Once I have a can't, then I slide it to cut the end square.



 

That method wont work on a lt 15.  On your mill the last bunk looks like it swi gs in or somehow your mill can cut past the last bunk.  On an lt15 that isnt possible.
If I were doing it and it was only one beam, I would make my first cut with the mill then finish the cut with a chainsaw after snapping a few chalk lines.
Then roll the log 180, cut wit the mill as far as you can, slide the log back and finish the cut.
Then roll the log 90 and do the same process.
If you are doing a bunch of over length logs I would build an extension.

[WV Sawmiller]

Dave,

  Sorry about that. I know I get a couple of notices when flagged, as when I am quoted, but have not had any problem removing them when they show up and I did not mean to cause any problems for you or anyone else. Thanks for the post. It is very helpful IMHO.

[Remle]

I have an LT15 wide which saws 17' max. I need to mill some timber frame beams 6" x 8" x 21'. I have a couple ideas but has anyone done this sucessfully?
Thanks,
Jim

Considering most of the replies have come from people with larger mills with hydraulics, roller toe boards and their mills have a swinging last support,which allows them to simply move it out of the way to reposition the log to saw off the hump.
IMHO it is time to invest in an extension for your mill. As time is money, the time factor will out weigh the cost of the extension by many dollars. Plus you will have the extra length for future cutting and increased the value of your mill, should you decide to sell it in the future. It's tough enough to roll over a 21' log by hand, then move it back and forth with out roller toe boards !!
Should you attempt to do it, I would not make a hump as others do. Saw from the large diameter end till you run out of the log, as many times as you can. Then roll the log over 180 degrees and replete the process. Then roll the log 90 degrees, using the 2 flat surfaces to square up the third/ forth sides, cutting down as far as you can. The reason to do this is to eliminate the extra weight of the hump and allow the cant to be moved back on to the supports of your mill. At this point saw to the dimension of the timber you are looking for regard less of the dimension of the material you need to remove to reach it. Any extra depth removed in this step can be shortened to the 17' of your mill and re-cut. This will save you moving the log several times to reach the desired timber size on each face. Then move the blade and cant back far enough to continue cutting the full length.
PS : Fashioning rollers that you can slip over the front/ middle and rear supports would help in moving the cant back and forth and don't forget to support the ends of the log over hanging the mill as you cut it down to size.
Good luck at what ever you decide and please let us know how you make out...

[SawyerTed]

Cut the first face as long as the saw allows. Cut the slab off with a chainsaw or skill saw, back the head up, slide the log and finish the first face.

After the first face, roll the log 180° for the second face. On a mill without roller toe boards, sections of roller conveyor between the bed and the cant would allow rolling it length-wise after cutting maximum length on the second and fourth faces.  The first and third faces would be done the same way. 

[WV Sawmiller]

Ted,

   When you slide the log back after making the first cut and removing the slab, why won't that change the angle of the cut for the remainder? You are dealing with a round bottom and side and flare in the log and it does not look to me like it would remain square and level.

[Bandmill Bandit]

It's a fiddly PITA to get it re set so its right but it can be done and I have done about 10 ish or so times. I use a laser transit to get the pith of log on the exact measurement on both ends at the beginning and then again on reset. longest ive done on my mill is 2 x  30'.    

[Stephen]

Once you have a flat side down, slide a few plank (full length) under to lift the 'hump' above the bunks. Set the blade flat to the cant and saw a little farther. Roll and repeat to square.

[SawyerTed]

On the first and third cut faces it can change the orientation of the open part of the face to the blade. It takes some repositioning and wedging.  Not ideal but neither is sawing 21' on a 17' saw. 

I've used the method described but with my toe board rollers.  

[slider]

Instead of using  chainsaw to trim the excess i just saw up out of the cut before the end . I trim at around 1 in boards for this. Custom sawyer taught me this tip years ago ,thanks Jake. Support on the long end and roller toe boards do make a big difference .

[WV Sawmiller]

On the first and third cut faces it can change the orientation of the open part of the face to the blade. It takes some repositioning and wedging.  Not ideal but neither is sawing 21' on a 17' saw.

I've used the method described but with my toe board rollers.  

Dave's method looks easier to me although it looks like you might have to do it in several stages if the log was too long. It looks like you have to move the cant forward till the hump is just forward of the last rail and I assume if you have a floating rail like I do you need to move it to the side. It looks to me like you could cut 4-5 feet at a time off the hump this way, turn it over and repeat possibly several times till you cut to the end of the log/cant. 

[moosehunter]

Or, .. you could have someone haul a longer mill to your place and saw them for you. I know just the guy!
mh

[Hilltop366]

A two rail mill extension would be easy to make on a budget, a bit of lumber and some angle iron.