Stihl 044 Rebuild

[PJ65]

Good Morning,

I picked up a couple of older stihls for free, an 044 and an 038.

Both are in need of new pistons and cylinders.  Going to start on the 044 first.  As this will be my first attempt at a rebuild I am looking for recommendations as far as which piston/cylinder kits to stay away from and any special tools that would make the job easier.  Any other input welcome as well.

Thanks

[421Altered]

Welcome PJ65!  I rebuilt a 038 magnum 2 for my first rebuild.  I reused the cylinder and put Caber rings on a Meteor piston.  I did a total rebuild on it, new Stihl crank bearings, Stihl crank seals, Stihl rubber and av mounts.  It's been a great saw since, matter of fact it's my favorite saw now!  I have a 024, 032, the 038, 064.  And am finishing up a 084.  Just make sure you use Stihl piston pin retaining rings, do not use the ones that come with the new piston.  Other's on here are much more knowledgeable than I am.  Maybe they will chime in.

[421Altered]

You will also need a case spliter.  Although if you are handy in the shop you can make one.  Other than that, just basic hand tools.  And a torx 27 for the screws.

[PJ65]

Thanks for the info.  What is the issue with the pins?

[421Altered]

No issues with the pins, it's the spiral locks that I understand the ears break off.  The Stihl spiral locks don't do that. That's what I've learned on this site.

[Real1shepherd]

You can remove the crank seals on most saws and with compressed air and washing the case out with fuel mix, you can get the bearing clean. But before that, grab the ends of the crank shaft and try to move the shaft laterally. There should be no play. Look closely for any cage damage or bearings huddled together with spaces between them. If there are, consider splitting the case and replacing the bearings.

This is where the controversy starts. Half the folks will urge you to put in cheap top end kits and Chinese crank bearings. This is entirely your decision. If you want the saw to be equal to what is was new, this isn't the road to take. If the saw is going to be used infrequently and/or you don't care, then you can consider a cheap rebuild.

The wrist pin clips aftermarket have been known to pop out and trash the top end. Some say to clip off the protruding ears and you're good to go. Others say to orientate them to 12 or 6 o'clock...the opening. Other say to only use OE clips.

Kevin

[sawguy21]

It would be a very good idea to pressure/vacuum test before tearing down to eliminate air leaks as a possible cause for failure. No point having it promptly die again. The Mityvac tool isn't cheap, maybe a friendly dealer will do it for you.

[Real1shepherd]

I'd at least replace the crank seals as a matter of course in any saw 15yrs+ old....or with dubious provenance. But if the crank has play, best to go inside.

MityVac is a great tool;the model that does vac and pressure with the flip of a lever. Shop around online. Three saws and it's paid for itself in diagnostics.

You could always do the vac & pressure test after new crank seals and fitted with a new/used top-end. Check your work with a compression tester too. Carb kit, new fuel & vent lines, new/sound used intake boot along with a new fuel filter as a matter of course.

Since you've already decided to replace the top end, the only thing a vac & pressure test will tell you now is if the case or seals are leaking. Come back here if you hit a hiccup.

Kevin

[PJ65]

Thanks for the info.  Going to order parts in the next few days.