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I have a 100 foot rotten pine that as struck by lightning.

Started by Mckee, June 04, 2022, 09:16:30 PM

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Mckee

Can anyone please give me advice on bringing this deed 🌲.

My plan is to wrap a 40 foot 3/8 chain around the trunk where it is split. 
Hook up 3/4 steel cable around the tree above the crack and pulling it with the tractor.
Not sure about the actual cut. No wood in the backside for wedging.

https://youtu.be/WOXKOaaInp8

https://forestryforum.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=10623

WV Sawmiller

   I can't see anything particularly at risk in the video so if it was me I'd tie a long rope or cable to it and use a snatch block to direct it where I wanted it to fall and just try to pull it over with a tractor or truck. If it did not fall you might at least shake the most dangerous limbs off and at least would give you the confidence to saw it off at the stump. But that is just me.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Mckee

That is exactly what I was thinking, I forgot to mention that I have 3 snatch blocks and an 50hp 4x4 tractor.

Southside

So I am going to say this and mean no disrespect out of it. You don't state your experience with felling timber and you are asking the internet for advice on how to drop a potentially dangerous tree with a building within the danger zone.  

If this is not something you are 100% confident in tackling - and that includes the "oh that's isn't going to work" scenario, during the cut, at the stump.  Then it would be money well spent to get someone to drop it for you.

Just remember chains slide up round things that get narrower, and Murphy was an optimist.  I wish you the best of luck with it, but given that you are asking if this is OK - and that's the right thing to do - maybe it's one of those "just because you can do it, doesn't mean you should do it" things.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

customsawyer

Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Mckee

Quote from: Southside on June 04, 2022, 11:38:12 PM
So I am going to say this and mean no disrespect out of it. You don't state your experience with felling timber and you are asking the internet for advice on how to drop a potentially dangerous tree with a building within the danger zone.  

If this is not something you are 100% confident in tackling - and that includes the "oh that's isn't going to work" scenario, during the cut, at the stump.  Then it would be money well spent to get someone to drop it for you.

Just remember chains slide up round things that get narrower, and Murphy was an optimist.  I wish you the best of luck with it, but given that you are asking if this is OK - and that's the right thing to do - maybe it's one of those "just because you can do it, doesn't mean you should do it" things.  
I don't have any experience in cutting down a tree like this. I have cut down trees before but nothing like this.
I have done a lot of research on taking down trees and can't find anything on a similar tree.
I am not confident at all and was hoping on getting some advice on staying alive because it isn't as easy as paying someone else to do it because I don't have the money to pay someone else.
My only option is taking the tree down myself or waiting for it to fall on its own.
I am running all the different scenarios in my head and none of them are bulletproof. 
I am worried about if I try and pull it down the top could break out of it. 
I would appreciate any ideas for a safe removal.

Southside

I have removed the bodies of victims from the woods who either made a mistake or something just went wrong.  You could probably get a pro to come and lay that down for $300 or less, if there is room to drop it in one piece.  My honest advice would be for you to not touch it.  The holding wood in that video is very, very compromised.  I fully expect conditions to change quickly once a saw is into that tree - the question is what do they change to.  Pulling on it may very well snap the stick off and then who knows what happens, you can't outrun a free falling tree, the acceleration of gravity will beat you every time, you only survive if you got lucky and were standing where no wood was going to land.  

I watched a shorter gum free fall one time, happened to be in the right place at the right time when some ant chewed off the last piece of holding wood - I was absolutely amazed at how fast that thing came down and the whump it made when it hit the pavement was impressive from 100 yards away. Absolutely nothing like cutting one in the woods, even when the hinge is cut free.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Mckee

Quote from: Southside on June 05, 2022, 09:49:13 AM
I have removed the bodies of victims from the woods who either made a mistake or something just went wrong.  You could probably get a pro to come and lay that down for $300 or less, if there is room to drop it in one piece.  My honest advice would be for you to not touch it.  The holding wood in that video is very, very compromised.  I fully expect conditions to change quickly once a saw is into that tree - the question is what do they change to.  Pulling on it may very well snap the stick off and then who knows what happens, you can't outrun a free falling tree, the acceleration of gravity will beat you every time, you only survive if you got lucky and were standing where no wood was going to land.  

I watched a shorter gum free fall one time, happened to be in the right place at the right time when some ant chewed off the last piece of holding wood - I was absolutely amazed at how fast that thing came down and the whump it made when it hit the pavement was impressive from 100 yards away. Absolutely nothing like cutting one in the woods, even when the hinge is cut free.  
I can definitely afford $300 for someone to take it down I was figuring it would cost $2,000 or more. I am going to see if I can get some prices. The problem is I am deep in the woods.
I am scared of this tree. Like you said there is no holding wood.
All I need is it down on the ground and I can take care of it from there.

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: Mckee on June 05, 2022, 10:05:46 AM.....
I am scared of this tree.......
That right there tells me you know what you are looking at and are correctly concerned because you recognize the risk is high. I have a friend I work with often who is a certified arborist as well as a logger. He takes these jobs all the time because it is usually quick money with no crew needed. He will do them on the way home from another job to fill out the day. What you are paying for is a person with a practiced eye and hands that drops trees all day, everyday and he will know when he looks at it as to what will work or won't. Just start the conversation by being clear "Just drop the tree, no limbing, bucking, brush work, chipping, or stump removal is required. Drop it, get your cash and you're done, with my gratitude."
 I learned this when I was in the exact same position many years ago. I had trees that HAD to come down controlled and I knew I didn't have the skills, but I also didn't have the money for a full job. In desperation I was moaning about it to a neighbor and he knew a "guy" that could help me. Turned out to be my friend Bill who I barely knew then. That turned into a great relationship. Which reminds me, I need him to bring his bucket truck over.... :D 
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way.  NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

customsawyer

Just don't get mad when he drops that tree in a couple of minutes and charges a few hundred bucks. You're not compensating him for his time to cut the tree down. You're compensating him for the years he spent gaining his experience.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

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