Milling dimensional lumber ??

[Broncman]

I am getting ready to lay some Tulip Poplar on the ground for dimensional lumber 8 and 10 feet long. I will seal the ends as soon as I cut. How long should I leave the logs for 8 and 10 feet finished lumber? How much do you typically loose on the ends due to splitting or whatever. 

I know they will not shrink much in that direction,  but I was thinking to leave an extra foot?

This will be my first batch running a mill. 

Thanks
Ken

[ladylake]

 Most loggers leave them 6" longer.  Steve

[SawyerTed]

+1 on 6" of trim but log ends need to be cut straight.  

[Broncman]

Thanks guys! 

[SawyerTed]

You're welcome. 

Commercial loggers generally use a sawbuck or other equipment to cut log ends straight. Some, but very few, still cut logs to length by hand.  

For those of us who occasionally harvest logs or get them from tree services, neighbors, FB Marketplace etc. it saves much frustration to pay attention to straight log ends and as little trim length as is practical. 

Cleaning up crooked cuts, tear out, branch nubs etc before the log gets to the mill makes downstream handling way easier too. 

[fluidpowerpro]

I would also take into account how soon you will be sawing. I know it's best to saw them asap but if I know that they will sit for a while, I will cut them extra long assuming the ends will split. I don't think tulip poplar is likely to split, but something to keep in mind for other species.

[Don P]

I sawed a pair of half tulip poplar logs last week. They can have quite a bit of growth stress. I tend to do SDR, Saw, Dry, Rip with yellow poplar. In 8' probably not as critical, as it gets longer crook can be somethig to keep an eye on. When you are sawing I can accept a whole lot more bow than crook. I can bring a bowed stick to layout when i sheath it. if it's got a crook, there isn't much I can do other than find a short use and break it down. Flatsawn tends to bow, quarter sawn tends to crook.

[OlJarhead]

Ditto on the 6"

End sealer 

And mill right away...also mill over dimensional.   Not sure what Tulip shrinkage is but fir SPF one 2x it's 1/16" in thickness and I typically mill 1/8 over.

[Southside]

Don what were they bred to pines?  :D

[Don P]

 ;)
A Look at Yellow-Poplar for Studs (usda.gov)

pg 9 here;
lmh1201.tmp (usda.gov)

Evaluation of Mixed Hardwood Studs Manufactured By the Saw-Dry-Rip (SDR) Process (usda.gov)

[hacknchop]

Make sure to put stickers as close to the end of the boards on each course when pilling and keep them nice and straight one above the other this will help limit end splits.

[Broncman]

Don P! Wow! That is some very useful information! I have a lot of Poplar. Will be building a solar kiln as well. Looks like I need to do some test runs with some flitches and then rip to size after they are dried/seasoned!

Thanks so much for that info!

[Don P]

Hmm. I can't go to bed yet  :D
Bugs... ambrosia and powderpost beetles love my poplar, not so much the green heartwood, but they dive in the sapwood. Right off the saw, layer by layer, hit it with a pump up sprayer, roller, dip tray... whatever, it needs a healthy coating of borate. I use solubor or equivalent wettable powder from the real ag supply. 1lb/gallon of water and soak it on. Low mammal toxicity but disrupts the gut of wood eaters. A good idea on oaks, hickory and sweet birch is bug candy, spray it and spray it again, that mint smell is a flashing blue light :D.