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Anderson 160 Log loader

Started by Bradbilt, May 21, 2021, 10:08:01 PM

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Bradbilt

Does anyone have any experience with them?

I found a used "damaged" one.

The story goes....
customer was having some problems with it, dealer came and picked it up. Then dealer went somewhere else to pickup another piece of equipment.
The dealer had to rotate the boom 180* to load the second piece of equipment.  But he never returned the boom back and drove out of the parking lot.
When he caught the communication cable and bent the boom straight up and over backwards ripping the main boom cylinder in 1/2.

The dealer then replaces the turret, main boom, secondary boom and grapple for the customer.

They are offering me the "damaged" turret, main boom, secondary boom and grapple for a SUBSTANTIAL savings over the $18,000 list price and I can get it tomorrow and not wait 6-12 months to get a new one.

NOW.  I plan on mounting it to gooseneck 20k trailer.  The dealer says I need a ring gear($720), ring gear motors($878 EACH) and main boom cylinder($506) .

I would still need a power pack, outriggers, hoses and controls.

What do you guys think?

thecfarm

I would think the insurance had all ready paid them.  ;) 
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Bradbilt

Well, I bought it. A lot cheaper than buying a new one. But it does need some pieces to work.  

Does anyone know the gpm the hydraulic pump would need to be

PoginyHill

Not an expert. New owner of used Metavic myself with 13hp motor. Looks similar to an Anderson 160. I was not able to find a gpm spec for my unit, but pump is very small. I'm guessing a single stage pump with 13hp would be limited to about 10gpm.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

mike_belben

The size and rating of the main hoses in and out of your valve block will determine how much flow you can even use.  


I will say that less is more.  When youre running a mid sized excavator or backhoe digging next to something important you are barely using 10gpm.   Now a knuckleboom with trucks waiting and skidders pouring in is gonna run full boogie with more like 20-30gpm just in the mast, but the machine is built for that and considered a consumable in the long run by a full crew operation.  Low grade logs flying through the air is how they make money.


In your case where you are the owner operator and wanting to make this thing last, slow is good.  Flinging logs just smashes stuff and cracks and wears things out.  A high flow pump on a small engine makes the governor lug like an on/off switch which is tough on rotating assemblies.  I like 3 to 4 gpm on a 16hp @ 2500 psi where dexterity and precision is to be desired.  Thats double the horsepower necessary and its just nice.  The engine will stay totally smooth and not lug and the controls feel like factory built.  -4 hoses are cheaper than big ones and there is no need to feather valves, you can yank them and count 1, 2 let off with no jerky motion.. You look like a pro.  I have stepped down from 10 to 4gpm pumps and been happier.   

I dont like seeing iron bounce from hydraulic action.  Thats neither smooth nor precise. The operator shouldnt be getting jilted hard if he moves a lever 1/4" too much imo.  The longer an articulating and pivoting hydraulic arm, the more backlash and flop and overshooting and amplification from a loose pin.  Its almost embarassing to watch someone with a homemade tool that they can barely use because its uncontrollable with hair trigger valves from too much flow.  Especially when the engine screams then falls on its face for a second as it flails the bucket into the fence, into the tree, into the shed.  

Smaller pump, better control.  Id do 2500psi, 5gpm @3600rpm on a small forestry trailer.  And use the smallest electric start honda or clone which is a 13hp i think.  Itll all last and work nicely. 
Praise The Lord

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