Throttle solenoids

[barbender]

I have a question, I have a Dyna SC14 firewood processor with a 38 hp Kohler on it. The engine is mounted on the opposite side if the machine from the operator, so the throttle and choke are cable operated. Two problems with this- owing to the length of the cables, they are pretty tough to pull. My wife almost can't operate the throttle cable. The choke isn't much better, but you don't use it as much. Problem 2 is these cables tend to collect moisture, and end up inoperable when things freeze up. I'd like to eliminate them altogether and run them with a couple 12 volt pull solenoids, but most of the ones I've seen online pull a lot of amps (around 70). The throttle and choke are easy to move on the carb so it shouldn't require a lot of pull. Has anyone ever done anything like this,and have some advice? Advice, even if you haven't done something like this?😁

[hedgerow]

Years ago I had a seed tender with a Honda engine that was belt drive with a clutch and it had a electric solenoid that you controlled with a switch at the outlet tube for the seed. The choke was still manual lever. Try looking at remote start generators you may found some electric solenoids that would fit your Kohler engine. I have a 40 HP Kohler on my homemade firewood processor and I just have the manual choke lever and the throttle is a short maybe six inch cable with the lever on the engine. My engines are on the other side too but I just walk around and start it and it runs until I am ready for a break.

[york]

Go on the Kohler web site, think they have just what your looking for...

[Corley5]

The throttle and choke cables froze up on my Honda years ago.  I use the controls on the engine and have a kill switch at the operator station just in case.  Have to walk around to start it and throttle up/down but no cables.  And surely no electric BS ;) ;D

[Hilltop366]

Generators with a idle control uses a small solenoid.

I wonder if a car door lock actuator would hold the throttle position, they would only use power when moving.

[Nathan4104]

How about some arms/bellcranks/ levers? Simpler than electric, maybe less prone to freezing than a cable 

[mike_belben]

Make yourself new cables by running a piece of electric fence wire inside a piece of brake line.  Create a trough to collect condensate and cut a few drain slits with a hacksaw blade to keep it from icing up.  Gear oil for cable lube lasts a good while.  

For terminations i drill a hole through a short bolt that will pass the cable and just in the head a bigger hole to hold the brake tube.  The bolt threads are your adjustment too.  Works good.  And they make some honkin fence wire so you can push and pull if its pretty straight.  Dont be scared to braze or solder little end fittings as needed.

If this somehow froze in winter you just hit it with bottle torch and it drains out the gills
 

[newoodguy78]

I've used silicone spray or graphite powder in sticking throttle cables in the past and it worked well. Had best luck taking them apart and getting the lubricant in then reassembling. 
Got nothing to offer on the solenoids unfortunately 

[barbender]

What I ended up doing with those cables last winter, that worked quite well, was use a redneck YouTube tip- this guy took a pop bottle, and drilled a hole in the cap slightly smaller than the outside of the cable. Then he pulled the cable through the cap. Next he put penetrating oil in the bottle, screwed the cap on, and hung it up like an IV, with the bottle upside down at the top. I think he put a small hole on the end for a vent, and to put a wire in for hanging it. So I used his method, but used antifreeze instead of oil. That solved my freezing problem for the rest of the winter, and I'll do the same thing this year. 

[mike_belben]

Motocross shops have pressurized cable housing lube jigs that screw on and force lube via propellant can into the housing.  For standard sized cables anyway.  I bet sled shops have an antifreezing version but not sure. 

[jmur1]

Hi barbender:

I use this one on my Honda 20 hp for the throttle.  I think it runs less than 1 amp and 50 bucks Canadian (continuous duty model).  I have it controlled by a hold to run limit switch on a relay.
I built a little rain cover for it on the front of the engine.  It works well.  (better than you would have guessed - I too was of the "electric crap" crowd) .  One of my customers does it on construction equipment so I thought I would try it.  It only has 2 settings on and off but it works for me!

Guardian Electric - A420-065432-00 - Solenoid, Frame, 12 VDC, Continuous Duty - Allied Electronics & Automation



 

jmur1