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Homemade Blade Guides

Started by ajsawyer, October 08, 2021, 09:47:18 AM

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ajsawyer

Next up on my sawmill build (click here for more) is blade guides. I'm making them out of 2-1/4" A2 steel, and will heat treat them before installing on the mill.

I've been looking at blades (will need 220"), and have come across a few that are 2" wide (namely from Spectrum supply, I'm looking at their woodmaster B blades). Cooks sells that size in 1.5" width for the hudson oscar 52 (anyone tried supersharp magnum duratooth?).

I'm going to be running the mill with a 25hp kohler diesel, and am wondering whether there would be any advantage to using 2" blades. They would be under less strain at the same tension, but I'm not sure blade fatigue is much of a concern compared to cutting edge durability.

I think I can make the guide wheels compatible with 1.5" or 2" blades by machining a groove sufficient to clear the set on 1.5" blades. Otherwise I have enough A2 to machine two sets of guide wheels, which would only cost me more time.

What would you do?  


Southside

I don't think you will have the torque necessary to pull a 2" band with that engine.v
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ajsawyer

Quote from: Southside on October 08, 2021, 10:23:17 AM
I don't think you will have the torque necessary to pull a 2" band with that engine.v
With a .090" kerf and a 2" wide x .042" thick blade, is the friction on the back 1/2" of the blade really that significant? 
I know it depends on what I'm cutting...

Iwawoodwork

You need to think about , what are you going to gain for the added cost of the 2" bands' Mighty Mite originally were built with 2" bands but soon went to the narrower. thinner bands. My 1985 mighty mite has  been reto fitted to run narrower bands which are less expensive and as a learning sawyer I have ruined a number of bands so the $20 band was/is easier to afford.

jrsloan1

At one time I thought I was fairly good at riggin stuff up.  I fell totally inadequate now. 

I have a Timber Harvester mill that uses 200" blades, 25HP Kohler Command Pro, full hydraulics.  Currently I use the Cooks Dura Tooth Super Sharp (1 1/4)and I like them. I plan to change rollers and go to the 1 1/2 soon simply for a little more stiffness.  I DO NOT BELIEVE I HAVE THE POWER TO PULL A 2" BLADE CONSISTENTLY.  You will have more torque with the diesel, but I believe it will be under powered and that causes other issues.  

That's just some info to chew on.
Never trust nobody cause you can't fix stupid!!!

John1946

You are building your mill by the same plans I used. I made my roller part of the guide and had issues with heating after running a while. I evidentially had side load on the roller bearings. Messed with them a while then ordered a set from Cooks, machined my original spindle to fit them, drilled and taped for the grease fitting. No issues with the Cooks rollers. Homemade ones went to the scrap.

good luck   

ajsawyer

Quote from: John1946 on October 08, 2021, 12:55:18 PM
You are building your mill by the same plans I used. I made my roller part of the guide and had issues with heating after running a while. I evidentially had side load on the roller bearings. Messed with them a while then ordered a set from Cooks, machined my original spindle to fit them, drilled and taped for the grease fitting. No issues with the Cooks rollers. Homemade ones went to the scrap.

good luck  
I'm hoping the A2 steel will be up to the task after being heat treated, I guess there's only one way to find out. I'm going to use greaseable bearings like cooks does. 
Later down the line I'll probably try to copy your log turner and auto-feed setup - thanks for the inspiration!  

John1946

Pineywoods log turner! you will need room under your frame. The way my axles interfered, I had to relocate two bunks for clearance. Plan ahead on this.  

Hilltop366

Not sure but I'm thinking that the rollers are ground true after heat treating, my understanding is that they may change shape a bit during treating. Something to watch for.

ajsawyer

Quote from: Hilltop366 on October 08, 2021, 01:54:12 PM
Not sure but I'm thinking that the rollers are ground true after heat treating, my understanding is that they may change shape a bit during treating. Something to watch for.
Thanks for the tip, I'll center them on the lathe after HT and see how they look - might as well polish them too if I have to do that. 

pineywoods

Roller guides.... grease is NOT the way to go. Use sealed bearings and a light oil for lube..These rollers rotate several thousand rpm's, grease just slings off. The seals keep water sawdust etc OUT.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
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