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4/12 to 2/12 transition

Started by Sedgehammer, January 19, 2023, 02:59:13 PM

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Sedgehammer

Here's where we're @ with the roof. Rafter tails still needed to go on. Question tho. Was going to go with shingles, but if I go with metal, how wood you do the transition? I'm thinking the lean-to roof needs to drop down an inch or so where they meet or?

Thanks



 

 
Necessity is the engine of drive

Tom King

There are as many different types of slope change transition pieces as there are different types of roofing panels.  Just check with your metal supplier.  There's plenty of information online about the different types too.  First decision is what type you're going to use.

Personally, I'll never put another exposed fastener roof on anything.  I've only done standing seam for over a decade now.

Sometimes stock pieces won't be exactly what you want.  My metal rollformer supplier has a computerized brake and they can make slope change pieces that fit all the angles perfectly, or any other special piece you want up to 20 feet long.  The price is not noticeably higher than a stock piece.

nopoint

You can just overlap the sheets and put a sealant or water stop adhesive strip sandwiched between the two panels. A piece of flashing is not a great solution unless you have a step. Especially with that low of a slope. Water will run up underneath the upper sheets. Borderline for steel and definite no-no to shingle 2/12

Tom King

Page 41 of this shows normal transition piece for exposed fastener panels.

https://fabral.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/fab_98-32-161_bluebooktotalsystems_digitalbrochure.pdf

For standing seam, the transition requires Z pieces between standing seams.  Fabral is the only company I've found precut pieces for this, and they fit perfectly, not requiring big gaps to depend on sealant.  My current local company is so much cheaper, but I kept some of the Fabral pieces and use one as a pattern to cut such pieces out of long ones.

I don't like to design any roof that depends on sealant to keep water out, but this unavoidable with premade panels.

I put heavy gauge standing seam on an almost flat roof, putting sealant on in the seams as I snapped the panels together, and that roof has been leak free for over 20 years.

We have standing seam on our chicken coop.  I don't expect to ever need to do anything to any of these roofs I've built in my lifetime.

Sedgehammer

@Tom King . What standing seam panel are you using? I'm getting unreal pricing.

Have you seen these types of screws on an exposed roof?

Covered EPDM screw



 
Necessity is the engine of drive

Tom King

I buy from a business that's only 25 miles away.  They do the rollforming there and sell direct.  I pick it up with my trailer.  It's Much cheaper than buying from a building supplier.  I have a how-to on standing seam on these forums somewhere.

They're in South Hill, Virginia, so too far to do you any good.  I like the design with the screw flange built onto one side of the panel.

I've replaced thousands of fasteners with stainless steel screws.  So far, they're all doing good.  They're available in a bunch of different sizes and lengths, so you can put a larger one in a standard sized hole.  They're all I would use.

Here are some big ones:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K2D2FKT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1   All I use are from that company.  Amazon gets them here quicker than the company does direct.

I could make a good living repairing leaking roofs put on by big companies and small operators, and that's just close to home.  I got the reputation as being the one to call to find and fix a leak.  I charged double my normal rate with a four hour minimum and guaranteed the fix, so that's $600 to start plus expenses.  I have turned away a bunch in the last few years because I have to stay close to home with my almost 107 year old half paralyzed Mom anyway.  People get mad at me because I can't come fix their leaking roof.

Might is not a good factor for a roof.  A small leak is a big problem.  Trouble-free is a very good thing for a roof.

btulloh

What's the cost of the standing seam roofing you're buying in South Hill?  I guess the real question is how much more does it cost to do a roof with that compared to the five rib?  The trim and incidentals add up quick in either case I s'pose.

No question that standing seam is a much better roof, but for ag buildings the cost difference would be a big factor for me.
HM126

Sedgehammer

@Tom King 

They make these in stainless also. I think this a great idea on a screw



 
Necessity is the engine of drive

Tom King

I can't remember.  It's been four or five years since I bought any.  I'm remembering a buck sixty five a foot, but that may have been running foot or square foot.

The biggest reason it costs more is because of all the extra effort it takes packing it in crates, putting strips of foam between the mating faces of every pair, building the crates out of 2x4's, and the space it takes to stack every two sheets requiring 1-1/2" in height, 18" wide, and however long the panels are.

It can take several of my 20' gooseneck trailer loads to do a good sized roof.

The metal they roll it from is the same as the Grand Rib, or whatever they call the exposed fastener panels that they can just pile on top of each other on the trailer.

The pro installers will bring rolls of metal and rollform it onsite, but I could put a roof on for half of what they do and still make over a hundred bucks an hour for my time on the roof plus expenses.

If you order the panels, they will come in those open crates.


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